DSloop

I tried to keep it evenly worked, so that the original shape was kept. Some 1600-2500 grit sand paper is needed to polish it also. The NEW generic hook was as pointed as a needle, tested by poking the web between thumb and first finger. A GOOD magnifying glass is really handy. A strong one, like from the eyepiece of a pair of binoculars. Is your hook a Simanco, or generic? Sharpening won't help too much if it's not Simanco., imho.

Today I was playing with the machine I am keeping and slowed down to turn a kinda sharp corner and it skipped a stitch , then another. Looked at the hook and it was NOT a Singer hook. Good time for an experiment with hooks, so I used a fine stone on the point of the other used hook which is a Singer, to make it nice and sharp pointed, as it was just slightly dull.( It would not make a pin prick feeling on the meaty part of my hand, that's the only gauge I have) Replaced it for the one in the machine which has no brand name on it, checked the timing, it had not changed so I turned it thru a few times by hand then let er rip. I tried to make it skip stitches but it would not. Go fast then slow and turn or just slow or stop. It did not skip any more. The part of the hook where the thread slips off as seen in the video above, on a Singer hook, is just a little bit longer than on the no name hooks. That small difference in the hook shape seems to me as what causes the skipped stiches.

I'm gonna try that.. thanks for the idea.

Nice. How well does the mouse work on leather?

You just learn by experience setting the tension, it don't take long. That was an interesting video. I have two hooks, one a 35 dollar Chinese brand and a Simanco original. The Singer has more metal in the area where the thread was slipping off the hook in the video. It is about 3 mm longer there. I wonder if that has anything to do with it?

tighten the bobbin until it will not slide. these things like tension. thread take up spring is set at medium. How did you time it? there is a very good video on youtube about doing that. the author describes everything clearly. search for 111w155 setup/timing/maintenance.. How is the hook? nice and smooth and very pointy? The point of the hook should be 1/16 of an inch above the needle eye as it starts back up. It should be moved as close as possible to the needle without touching it.( I think that's how it goes)

Bobbin tension kinda stays the same unless you go from light to very heavy thread. Did you set it where the thread is resisting being pulled from the holder? It should not be loose, but offer good resistance. Check ALL of the guides and little holes where the thread runs thru.If there is even a small groove for the thread to catch it will mess everything up. Get a good magnifying glass and check those out, along with the tension discs. I don't run the thread thru the small guide at the foot, it runs just fine with out going thru it. I adjust the part in image 4 so it lets the thread thru freely, it don't require a lot of attention. (I think). Remove the take up discs off as a pair, but leave the spring on the machine. Wind the thread take up spring around clockwise 1 turn then put the discs back on. This can be a pain, make sure you don't trap the little spring with the discs, there is a shoulder back there for it . Good luck.

One of mine did the angled stitch thing too. Try adjusting the upper thread tension and see if that helps. Start with almost none and put more tension on the thread as you slowly sew.

I live very near Gastonia, and have two Singer 111 w 155 machines for sale. They are in good operating condition, with L shaped tables and 1/2 hp motors that use 120 volts. I will let you pick the one you want for $500.00 and I will deliver and help set the table and machine up.

Make me an offer and lets see how close we are in thinking. I did research and learned they are like unicorn teeth.

Are you holding the threads taut about 6 inches back from the foot when you start sewing? Not banjo string tight, but snugly. These machines need that bit of help, to get the first stitch started.. Mine does, anyways.

I responded to an add on my local Craigslist for "Industrial sewing machines for sale". The picture was of a Singer111w155 and a table, at a decent price. I went and looked at the machine and bought it. It had been sitting on the floor in a basement that was used as an upholstery shop, for a couple years, so it did have some light surface rust and the usual grime and spiderwebs. I cleaned it with BrakeKleen and polished some of the nastier spots. After oiling everything up and making sure it would not destroy itself I put it on the table where my 111w115 was, powered by a servo motor. After some more tweaking it runs like a champion. This is good, right? I talked with the lady that was selling the machines ( her dad had died suddenly a couple years ago) and she was wanting to clean the basement out, as it had become a hoarders dream or nightmare. Her father bought any and everything that interested him and there is a lot of stuff. I made a deal for the other two 111w155's and all of the leather, fabric and anything that was used for the upholstery shop. Two machine two huge L shaped tables, four motors and a pile of other things. Still need to make a few more trips to get it all. In the goodies were some NOS Singer needles for a 97series machine. The hand printed label on the boxes is faded badly, I might be reading it wrong. Here is a picture. These needles are for sale if anyone can use the m, I cannot. There are 77 of the smaller leather tip needles -3.044 inches long, .065 diameter, and 23 of the larger fabric needles, - .092 diameter and 3.030 long and one oddball that is .100 diameter and 2 .744 long. The upper box has 97 x 3,- 26 on it, the lower box has 97 x 10. I cannot see a thread size. Image # 2