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Just got off the phone with Vernon at Weaver Leather. He says they use Tuff Kote on nearly anything. He also said they had tried everything Fiebings has and that nothing compares to TK. I asked about harness dressing. He said don't bother and to stick with TK. ed

I'll try to post a close-up picture of what I'm talking about. But for now, imagine you were to add an identical pocket on the back side of the vegtan case you have in some of your uploaded pictures. This would create a three-layer seam. the one thing that would probably make the corners on such a case easier to stitch is that case appears to have been cased. without casing the leather around the corners would pull more against the machine . This happens on cylinder arm machines, but there are ways around it: holster or stirrup plate, filing down the flat needle plate as much as possible to the left of the needle, stitching the straightaways up to the corner which is to be handstitched. Ed

Hi Henry, I currently do have a cylinder arm machine for my briefcases , satchels, etc. There are two circumference edge seams on these bags that require the stitching of 3 layers of 6 oz leather, perhaps not quite 1/2". In all honesty there are really only two bottom corners that pose some degree of difficulty, due to two gussets coming together with a middle panel. I've gotten the cylinder arm machine to maneuver the corners, but when I saw your sole stitcher I just thought it was the perfect machine, and even more so at 20 lbs. The more I think of it, though, the more I wonder if the sole stitcher would lose its grasp on the corners that pose some degree of difficulty, due to the slope of the leather where a gusset edge meets a flat panel. ed

Is this #1 Harness Dressing what Weaver leather sells as "Harness Dressing"? Ed

Hi Henry, What would you say is the thickest that the J&R can stitch? Can it do 1/2"? I never knew such a machine existed and am now very interested. Thanks, Ed

Thanks for the feedback. I do prefer the retainers, as they keep the straps aligned for buckling and the flap and straps can be manipulated in the same motion with one hand. Ed

I'm beginning to like Tuff Kote more and more for sealing the flesh side. ed

The final finish for this bag was Bag Kote. But now I've moved on to Tuff Kote. ed

I received the sample of Nylbond and did a quick test for abrasion resistance. Dabond is better in this regard, so I went ahead and put in my order for Dabond in chestnut and sizes of 277 and 346. ed

In another post Bree got me thinking again about lamps. I just love the Danray goosneck lamp she suggested. When I get into work mode I just grab it and throw it into the exact position I need and get to work. I love things that work the way I do and I never have to give them a second thought. But I'm wondering if these goosenecks need to be treated with some care or do they stand up with ease to the greatest of abuse? Ed

Bree, Are you saying that Tuff Cote will remove Edge Coat that has already been applied and dried? I've noticed that LCI's site states that TC should be sprayed on, yet the DYO site states spray or manual. I prefer wiping on with a sponge but am wondering if a regular water spray bottle would be sufficient for spraying on or if a special aerosol sprayer would be needed. Ed

Hi Jeremiah, What did you do to fix the problem? Ed

extra straws from fast-food restaurants work well as stir sticks for edge finishes..... oops... I think that goes under another thread for "Things to steal."

Playing around just a minute ago with my Osborne U-shaped channel gouger , I got to thinking that someone ought to make something like this that can plane, gouge or scrape a 3"-wide section. Something like a spokeshave but with a basic depth adjustment. I've never used a spokeshave. Do they have depth adjustments? Ed

It is my understanding that Barbour now owns Coats. Word today from Coats is that Nylbond is Barbour's bonded nylon. Coats is sending me a sample spool of 207 Nylbond, all they currently have in stock, before I go through with my order for Dabond. ed

Haven't been able to experiment more and have to before deciding if I should return the planer. The sander I'm keeping. REvised method thus far only in theory: 1.Plane to edges,shouldn't take much time. Start in middle go out to edges and stop about an inch short of edge. 2. Take orbital sander around edges applying some pressure. It is good if 1" margin around edges is thinner than the rest. At least for bags, this helps with the the stitching. Theoretical time projection (not including setup and cleanup) for 1 pass of the planer and finishing off with orbital sander (17" x 12" piece of leather): 2 minutes. Add a minute for each additional pass of the planer along the entire surface. I'll try to get back to it this weekend. Ed

My account is setup and I just got off the phone with Coats. To get this chestnut brown, I have to order 17 one-pound spools of each. I was hoping to get six spools of each, but now I'll have 11 spools surplus of each. Does anyone use chestnut brown? ed

I'm still going forward with opening an account with Coats. Everywhere I look the street price seems to be about $28/ lbs plus shipping. If everything continues to go forward with my Coats account, I'll be able to resell for at least $25/lbs plus shipping. Currently I'm looking to get Chestnut Brown, Black, and Deer colors in sizes 346, 277, 207, maybe 138 but not sure. My minimum order has to be 15 to 20 lbs if requested color is in stock. If a special color run has to be done I'll have to buy a whole case. Let me know if anyone might be interested. Ed

There is something I do, something I stumbled upon, and I've never heard it suggested by anyone. I have removed the spring from the bobbin case, so now only the tension screw adds tension not the spring pushing the bobbin against the shuttle casing. This isn't necessary if you only stitch thicker leathers, but if you traverse a range of thicknesses on a single project, I think the removal of this spring is a good choice. Another thing I do with lighter leathers is use a slotted, feeddogless needle plate. It removes the feeddog as an agent in conveying the leather but the result is better stitches, though you do have to pay a bit more attention to applying a little nudge to keep the leather moving slowly, depending on thickness, speed, etc. A few weeks ago and other variables. A couple weeks ago I went back to the standard needle plate with feeddog adjusted lower. After more tests, especially with 346 thread, I went back to the slotted plate. Ed

Thanks, Bree. I should have my Pelican case in two or three weeks. Once I get the case, I'll know for sure about going forward with modifications for a rolling office, at which time I'll spring for the dual lock. It's about $120 for about six linear yards (3 yards mated) of 2" tape. It's good to know about that super glue, in case the VHB-backed dual lock doesn't stay put' Ed

It is suggested that when going thicker than 207, you should use one size smaller in the bobbin:207/207, 277/207, 346/277. Ed

Great idea. I always have to use the vise grips. Speaking of Contact cement containers, is it possible to buy a replacement cap that allows for replaceable brushes. The cap-brush combos that come with the quart never seem to last long enough to use up all the glue in the container. I was thinking of just drilling a hole in the cap and using a horsehair brush from Harbor Freight and perhaps sealing around where the brush enters the hole in the cap with duct tape. However, something tells me this setup might be messy when it comes to brushing on the contact cement. Ed

Thanks, Bree. I was getting set to make some compromises. I've decided to get a yard of non adhesive 6" wide Dual Lock (SJ3780/black) for stitching to leather and three yards of 2" wide VHB adhesive backed Dual Lock for attaching to the polypropylene case (SJ3550/black or SJ3560 clear). I contacted Pelican Cases and was told that their cases are indeed made of polypropylene and to adhere foam cushioning they use 3M 76 Spray adhesive. Here is some info on the adhesive backed Dual Lock: http://www.itapestore.com/index.asp?PageAc...ustom&ID=23 Ed

I'm about to purchase some non-adhesive heavy-duty velcro (3M Dual Lock) strips. One side of the strip will be stitched onto leather cases. The other side will have to be glued onto a smooth hard plastic (polypropylene?) case. Do you think Dual 88 contact cement would be enough, or is there another type of glue I should try? I've never tried 3M VHB (very high bond) double-sided adhesive tapes, which I think is used on a variety of the adhesive-backed 3M Dual Lock strips. I should have a surplus of this Dual Lock, if anyone is interested. Ed

I stumbled into a method for removing a stuck-on lid to a jar containing acrylic edge finish: 1. Pour boiling water into a bowl. 2. Soak wash cloth/rag in bowl with boild water. 3. Place very hot soaked washcloth/rag over jar for about five minutes. 4. Twist off lid. I think the moist heat helps out tremendously, but I suppose you could also use a hair dryer or heat gun as well. Ed