esantoro

Here's one thread on the topic: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...art=#entry69713

I would try Aussie Wax. Give the whole case a good application. Let the leather soak in the AW for 24 to 48 hours. Then buff. Do a second application, if desired. I think I'll run another experiment along these lines. This time, I'll spray the leather and not just use one drop. ed

Though we call that thing a spring, it's actually a forked tip clip where the thread is pulled through. Carefully bending this forked tip downward will add more tension to the clip. I've had similar problems and noticed that not all bobbins are equal. Some have some warp to them and are a tad longer than others. With unequally sized bobbins I've noticed that I would get inconsistent stitch results. I removed that spring that pushes the bobbin out of the casing so that the only tension variable on the bobbin thread will be the screw that tightens or loosens the bobbin tension clip. I had found that the spring pushes the bobbin against a metal bar at the top of the housing, adding tension, which can be inconsistent from bobbin to bobbin, as each bobbin is slightly different from another. With that spring removed, I also don't wrap the top thread twice around that top pigtail, as indicated in Artisan's video. I find that with these mods I can get predictable and consistent tension reads and adjustments on the fly, especially when I transition from two or three layers of 5/6 oz to one layer, as with bag flaps. Are all of your bobbins, by chance, from Artisan? If they are, I'm sure they are top quality and probably machined in a rather consistent way. The bobbins that I noticed were of inconsistent manufacturing had been bought on Ebay. With my mods, I can use any of my bobbins, even the ones for the GA5/baby bull. ed

Many months ago, Steve Mason posted this picture of his great grandfather's leather shop. That's the real deal, the real creature. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?a...ost&id=6038 Ed

here's one link: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;hl=bickmore ed

Pete gave us the idea a while back about mixing dye with Bick 4. It seems to work well at having the dye go on evenly. The only other type of dying I like is mixing brown stain with neatsfoot oil. This mix goes on evenly. ed

As Bruce writes, Hidehouse is a good alternate source. So is Zack White. Weaver should be good too, though I have yet to buy from Weaver. ed

If we take a Coach bag, or Ghurka bag, or Mulholland Brothers bag of today and compare it with a bag from the same company twenty or thirty years ago, will we see a difference in quality of construction? If we see a lower quality in such a company's bags today, whatever has changed in production processes in that twenty or thirty years has to have contributed to lower quality. Whether consumers care to notice such changes is another story. I wonder if the fact that a bag is not made within the same vicinity as that of the designer, or if the designer and the craftsperson are not the same person actually leads to an inferiority in the design itself. Does the psychological makeup of those who work on an article come through in the final product? ed

I know I should never go against anything Art ever says...I know, I know, I know. . . . . . . However, I think there really is something to these spacing rings. The 441 manuals even have illustrated a selection of spacing rings of varying thicknesses. Physical observation also tells me that at least with my current 441 setup, #23 and #24 needles will not skim the hook, but #25 and #26 needles will (#26 a tad more than the #25), which tells me that the scarf of the smaller needles are actually farther from the hook. I just can't help myself from experimenting with these things. I will try to measure the distances between the scarf and the with various setups. If anyone else is interested, please take a look at how much skimming takes place with particular size needles and the hook. Now I'll duck, but please throw only ripe tomatoes, as I can use them for my pasta dinner tonight. Ed

Here's an article I came across that relates to this thread: http://www.sweatfree.org/news_LAT-2-20-08 ed

What's the name of that supplier for Bontex? I'd like to see if they have Bontex in a 2.5mm thickness for insoles for UGG boots. ed

I like the Weaver edgers on p. 229 of the catalog, item #00080 ed

Many months ago I came across a California (If Memory serves correct, the company is in Southern California)supplier for cardboard boxes (18"x16"x8"; 200lbs test 32 ECT). At the time cost was about $1.25 or less per box for an order of 25 shipped to Brooklyn, New York. Also at the time I wasn't in need of restocking, so I neither ordered nor wrote down the name of the company. I think I did save the bookmark but I have had to do a full reinstall on the comp since then. I know this is a stretch, but might anyone know of a good supplier for cardboard boxes out in California. About the best price I'm currently finding is around $1.88 (including shipping) per box for 25 from Uline. If anyone in the NYC area wants to go in on an order of 275 boxes from Chicago, we can get them at $1.49 per box shipped (18"x16"x 10"). That's the best price I've found so far, but minimum order is 275. Thanks, Ed

It does seem to be true with Weaver that the same type Dee in a different finish could end up being a different gauge wire altogether and the specs different from what's printed in the catalog. I've called up beforehand to have someone take a caliper to the stock before placing my order. The 325 and 325M dees appear to be ok. ed

A side question. I've started ordering 5.5/6 oz and 11/12 oz bridle from WC. The thicker side is for bag straps and belts. The thinner side is for briefcase parts. I was thinking of using the 8/10 oz sides for belts and straps instead of the 11/12oz. Would anyone suggest not going down to 8/10 for single layer belts and straps? For bag straps the 8/10 is fine, but I'm not sure about the belts. Thanks, Ed

I wouldn't use sheepskin, as the fluff will find its way inside the laptop and over time cause too much heat build up. Ray's idea of a neoprene sleeve is good, or you can pad the case with 1/8" or 1/4" neoprene and thin lining. ed

After a bit more research, it seems that there are many of these cheap variable temp solder stations on the market. I wonder if it's a simple procedure to open up a 50 watt version and change a part or two to make it a higher wattage device. I survived the fireworks of my lamp fix and still have a few lives to play with. Ed

I want to solder the connections on my lamp fix for a more professional job. And then I will tackle repairing the wires on a defunct laptop AC adapter. I have two 100 watt gun-type soldering pistols which are not very useful for intricate work, which I'd like to dabble in later. Years ago I had ideas to make NiMh battery adapters for various electronic devices, which now seems like a suitable distraction once again. Ed

I need to buy a basic, inexpensive soldering station. I bought a cheap 20/40 watt switchable soldering station from radio shack but returned it because it was too cheap. For about the same amount of money, I can get either a 5-50 watt or 5-70 watt variable temp soldering station similar in quality to the radio shack soldering station. Is there any reason I should get the higher wattage station that sells for around $44, or is the 50 watt station that sells for $23 enough? Here are three links: 50 watt: http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15860+TL 70 watt: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=380105600138 This one is identical to the soldering station I got from and returned to Radio Shack: http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=11771+TL Thanks, Ed

Thanks. I'm in Brooklyn. You wouldn't by chance have an Artisan Toro would you? I'd like to try one out in the NYC area. Ed

Hi James, So that makes it 3.69mm,which I think will show better results with #24 needles and smaller. Mine is 3.48mm. And another member posted something like 3.52mm. This is leading me to think there are micro variations in the thicknesses of these spacing rings. And I happen to think that even a variation of .2mm will have an identifiable affect with certain needle/thread/leather variations. Now I know that I may be able to call Artisan and have them measure a few replacement rings and send me one that's about 3.69mm, as that is one size I'd like to have for the smaller needles. Thanks for the measurement. I hope others will also post their measurements of these spacing rings. Ed

I've written this before. Though I have not received any corroboration, I do think it's worthwhile, especially if you need your 441 to stitch a variety of thicknesses, tension settings, thread, etc. Remove that spring inside the bobbin case, as it adds friction to the bobbin when it rotates. That spring should be replaceable (you'll probably need a sturdy tweezers)if you need to replace it. However, this may be only a consideration for my 441 clone , which is a Neel's/Cowboy model 6, but I think it will work across the board. The spring is there to make the bobbin stop spinning when you let up on the motor pedal. However, I don't think superfluous bobbin spin is a problem if you are doing 300 spi or slower. If you're going full bore at 800 spi maybe, but not 300 or even 400. Of course, if you remove this spring, it will not spring out of the case when you open it, but that is a very minor concern. A middle course if you think this modification has some merit is to cut off a few coils from the spring. What I like most about not having the spring there is that I can be sure that the only adjustment for bobbin tension will be the tension adjust screw, not the fact that some of my bobbins are a smidgen longer than others. Inconsistent stitch results was driving me mad until I figured out this spring was a major player. James, if you can and you have calipers on hand, would you mind measuring the thickness of the spacing ring in your shuttle/hook setup whenever it is convenient? I'm curious to know if there is variance. ed

Hi James, Where are you getting #18 needles for the toro? I thought the smallest available was #23. Since your setup for 69 thread is working for you, nothing needs to be changed,but I'm curious to know if the top tension on 69 thread will be better if you don't wrap the top thread twice around the upper tension pigtail, as is done in the Artisan video. I, too, would like to make my 441 as versatile as possible. Thanks, Ed

MadJacks, What size needle are you using with the 69 thread? ed

I find that with my 441 a slotted flat needle plate sans feeddog is a necessity. I also think that when going to a 24 needle or smaller it is also very useful to shim the spacing ring. RDB, the next time you have the spacing ring out on your toro, could you measure the thickness with a caliper? I think it would be worth paying attention to how close your needle passes the hook. Smaller needles will be farther from the hook. In my experience, slight grazing is ideal and will help ensure loops are properly formed. I also think that for lighter thread, leather and smaller needles that it is also worth considering the removal of the spring in the bobbin case (not the tension clip but the spring that pushes the bobbin out of the casing). In my experience, that spring alone pushes the bobbin against the steel bar of the bobbin case housing causing too much friction on the bobbin as it rotates. This isn't noticeable on thick leather with thick thread and a large needle, but it is noticeable when you work with the lighter stuff. But, as always, Art is the master here. ed I find that with my 441 a slotted flat needle plate sans feeddog is a necessity. I also think that when going to a 24 needle or smaller it is also very useful to shim the spacing ring. RDB, the next time you have the spacing ring out on your toro, could you measure the thickness with a caliper? I think it would be worth paying attention to how close your needle passes the hook. Smaller needles will be farther from the hook. In my experience, slight grazing is ideal and will help ensure loops are properly formed. I also think that for lighter thread, leather and smaller needles that it is also worth considering the removal of the spring in the bobbin case (not the tension clip but the spring that pushes the bobbin out of the casing). In my experience, that spring alone pushes the bobbin against the steel bar of the bobbin case housing causing too much friction on the bobbin as it rotates. This isn't noticeable on thick leather with thick thread and a large needle, but it is noticeable when you work with the lighter stuff. But, as always, Art is the master here. ed