JC2019

Okay I will research more. I don't use my machine often but glad to know that's a big part of the problem. This small part of the thread getting caught is a much more minor issue and I can deal with it for now but want to eventually solve it too. The bobbin thread is indeed a bit more tight than the needle thread if I pull on both, the bobbin white thread I use is a bit more tight. I started using different colors to see my problems more clearly, which one lacked, tension, what was actually getting caught, etc.

I just tried again and I held the threads this time and that must have been the problem. Or at least part of it. Now my next problem is that part of the needle thread (I use black thread for the needle & white on the bobbing to see what is going on better) goes into the hole of the bobbing (bobbing thread is white) but I am assuming it shouldn't get stuck in there when I am done. The problem is at the end of stitching, part of the black /needle thread seems to always get stuck in the bobbing hole when I am done stitching. I have to pull it out by force. This is hard to describe but usually I expect to be done stitching and do the following: I make sure my needle is up and not in the leather. Then I lift the needle up. I pull on my leather piece and it pulls both threads from needle and bobbing. I cut both. Then I should be done but that's not what happens for me: Instead: I make sure my needle is up and not in the leather. I lift the needle up. I have to jank/pull hard to get my leather far enough to cut the threads and a piece of black thread is left stuck in where the needle goes in (where the white bobbing thread comes out). I have to pull out the black thread after I cut the white and black threads from my leather end. I'm not sure why that is happening.

Yeah typo. Thanks for the response. I am new to the machine but have owned a while now. I don't use it often. It has always given me this problem. Maybe it does a few stitches before this happens. I am not holding it on the side no so I will try that thank you. The needle is brand new. I am using thread it came with still. It is threaded according to the youtube video they have here but I will try to rewatch it a bit more and provide my own photos:

I am wondering if this is something to do with the bobbing being thread being too tight vs the needle thread being not tight enough? I've adjusted the tension at the top of the machine (knobs where it thread through). What happens is it stitches a few times and then it bunches up and snaps. Happens pretty quickly. I also have a side question: sometimes my machine on going in reverse it will get stuck if I stop mid way (maybe I left the handle go on accident while it still is moving.. not sure). Usually what happens is the needle snaps since the machine is stuck and can't move. Is there a better way to resolve this that won't snap the needle? What has happened there? Thanks again

I've seen it commonly recommended to buy a leather jacket that fit's pretty snug, in fact some people claim they've bought jackets that they can't even fully zip up. I've also heard this is a mistake. What is your take? I imagine something like a horsehide would have very little stretch? But thinner cowhide, lamb, suede maybe has more and you might buy your own jackets more snug? Or would you just recommend something a bit more loos to begin with? Then there is the concept of "breaking in" leather shoes so some buy them kinda snug too but some need to get them professionally stretched.

Will take a look thanks

Great. I just have to find someone. I do know a few people I can call locally so I should try that. I probably want to get "sets" so the metals and colors can match. For now "gold" and silver and mainly silver is what I will focus on finding.

Makes sense, I am sure there are trusted hardware suppliers out there I can buy from online? I'm looking for places that can ship to me (even if it requires a phone call) to the USA. I figure someone here would know. Also what kind of pricing should I expect and are there order minimums? Thanks

I'm looking to buy hardware for dog collars that are high quality and won't break easily. For stronger dogs, over 50lbs. Things like D rings and metal buckles, both clasp and traditional (I suppose like mini belts). What material and price points will I be looking at? Thank you

Most likely I'll buy something off the rack for about 1.2k each. I was hoping to get 1 in black and one in brown. Perhaps one also in suede for a total of 2-3 jackets. I know sometimes models will go on a discount at the end of their life cycle so maybe I could spend significantly less. I would rather buy once and keep it for a while, hence why I want something simpler in design and color.

Hi, I am looking to learn more about leather jackets and buy one for myself of higher quality. Any recommendations for leather jacket companies would be appreciated. I do want something simple in style and look without a lot of zippers/pockets. Either a moto/cafe racer style or with a small collar but still simple. I know Schott has been around for a while and they sometimes use Horween leather on some of their jackets. I do like the styling / fit of some of the more "fast fashion" / "modern fashion" companies like All Saints, Coach and Theory, but the leather to me doesn't feel the same.. and they provide very little info on their leather. I haven't felt the coach jackets in person yet so I should do that. A custom made jacket is also something I would consider but I'm not sure how much those would cost or the hit/miss of doing this remotely for a garment. Thank you

I know there is a lot of discussion around top grain vs full grain , etc. But I was curious about what you guys have encountered with suede leather and if there is any real way to judge it's quality besides feel and look. I imagine there is also bonded suede but I'm not sure how to identify it. Mainly I am researching leather jackets for myself but also have always been curious about suede and learning more about it.

Follow up questions: how are you doing your alignment for the placement of your magnets, do you have a webcam addon? Also, can you tell me more about the 3d printing reinforcing and how does that work, help? Thanks

Great thanks for letting me know. I ended up getting a bofa filter and a fsl muse co2 laser too. I havent build an enclosure for my diode laser or cnc but hope to do that soon. noise is a concern for me but these seem reasonable so far. Havent been using the laser at all except for some small tests but its really cool. I have 2 3d printers that I also havent really used much but did make a test stamp which was kinda fun. I am not sure if the resin printer I have will be of much use for leather work but its incredible technology. I want to upgrade to a non toy cnc machine but that one will be one of the last few toys I get. I am pretty happy with everything I have. I really have too much already. I think I might try using acrylic to see how patterns might turn up on the laser. I do also have a little tiny vinyl cutter toy machine that might do paper/cardboard but not sure how well. Right now everything is still done for fun and curiosity for me but I have been thinking about the business side more and more and how to scale and automate.

good to know thank you

Great thanks. Do you over use left over splits from a hide as stiffener ? I read a while back that I should stay away from split leather so I don’t really buy it on its own but perhaps it’s valuable still? Or should I avoid it like bonded leather or do you think they have their uses? I am trying to stick to top/full grain for the most part but still fairly uneducated.

Just wondering what you guys recommend I use if I ever want to make a backpack or bag more "structured" so it doens't just flop over. I've taken a few older mesh/fabric backpack apart and they seem to use foam? What material do you want to use for leather? Is foam also fine? Or would you recommend something else like "Stiffener"? Thank

The hand wheel seems to be easier to turn now... not sure what changed. I am not sure what I should know about the motor break but I'd be curious to learn more. From techsew, their response on it: "motor brake, it’s built into the motor. When you release the pedal the motor should stop on it’s own.". Does that help?

Tried without the belt, it's easier to turn, about what I would expect.

I see now. It does have a speed reducer and it is connected to the motor. I will try later today without the motor connected.

I am just setting up my Techsew 2600 and I'm in the process of setting everything up. In the instructions it says to turn the wheel counterclockwise by hand. I have a normal sewing machine and this turns very easily. Is this supposed to be very stiff and hard to turn? I guess that's just how an industrial sewing machine is supposed to be. I'm having a little hard time finding more detailed instructions in video form for this machine but I am looking up the 2700 videos to see if I can't learn more about it. If anyone has any good resources let me know. Also wondering what the little lever under the "Caution" yellow sticker is supposed to be used for? Thanks

Just a quick update. The replacement parts arrived and I've put the table together and now it feels rock solid. It's a world of difference. It would have been a huge mistake to try to use the other parts. I will need be reading the manual to try to put this together this weekend. I haven't been able to find any video instructions on how to put this model together, if anyone has any tips let know. Thanks

Great thank you. Not sure if it got missed but I did send a reply email last night to support@techsew.com (I added that I would need 5 parts, everything minus the bottom most cross bar where the pedal goes. I forgot to ask for some spare screws to attach the legs to the table since one or more might be slightly bent). The machine I am not sure is damaged or any other part since those probably require actual testing. Thanks again.

I sure hope so. If only the steel parts are a problem that is a lot less worse than it looks I think... At this point, assuming each part is maybe $40 shipped to replace.. that's $200 for the two bottom legs, two top legs, and cross bar. Hopefully that's worst case. I guess I won't be getting the upgrade for the flat top since I'll need to replace these first (I meant to get that but it seems I didn't add it to my cart, only the servo reducer upgrade) :/. The top leg (the side with the really bad leg I removed) does seem to wobble a lot from side to side. I took it off too. Maybe the bottom screw is bent slightly or it's just not very sturdy to begin with. I could fill that hole with something and it might take the screw in better. Still need to investigate that further, perhaps it's just not as stable until it's all connected via the crossbar.

Photos of the machine, just started inspecting one side, from the back (near a big knob I believe used to move the kneedle up and down) there is a little chip and the hole I assume is from two welded parts: