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MLGilbert

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Everything posted by MLGilbert

  1. MLGilbert
    Thank you both, I kind of figured it wouldn’t work but thought I’d ask. I’ll let him know!
  2. MLGilbert
    Hi all, a good friend of mine asked me to make him a pair of woolies with an elk hide he had skinned and tanned. I’m worried about longevity because I know elk hair is hollow and brittle. For those of you who have worked with hair-on elk hide or made woolies, would you suggest I try it or tell him it’s not a good idea? Thanks, Morgan
  3. MLGilbert
    Thank you all! I used a cross over because I like how it pulls the rope up tight against the horn, but I can definitely see how it doesn’t fit as well as on a slick fork.
  4. MLGilbert
    Well it's been almost two years since the first one, but I finally finished my second saddle - a 1/4 carved Will James! I generally prefer slick forks but as my first saddle was a wade, I wanted to learn how to cover swell forks. I was a little too optimistic and tried a no-welt swell cover, but quickly had to scrap that and use a folded welt instead, which I think turned out well. The cheyenne roll was new to me as well, and while I'm fairly happy with it, I feel it isn't angled back quite as much as it should be. Keeping consistent stitches on the underside was also much more difficult than with the straight-up binding. I'm much more satisfied with the seat on this saddle than I was on my first, but unfortunately I won't be able to really test it out since I'm listing this one for sale! I'd be glad to hear any and all critiques and advice on this saddle that I can apply to the next one! Thank you!
  5. MLGilbert
    That looks like the TCAA logo to me, but I wonder if there are stitches hidden under the keeper.
  6. MLGilbert
    I think I understand, so the tongue is friction fit in the keeper? Thank you Dwight!
  7. MLGilbert
    Hi all, my friend ordered a carved hat band for his cowboy hat, and has basically given me free rein on the design. I'll be making it 1/2" wide, and I would like to connect the ends similar to the way the Pedro Pedrini does, where the tongue slips through a small keeper, but without a buckle. Can anyone tell me how he might fasten the ends so it doesn't slip apart? Thank you, Morgan
  8. MLGilbert
    That looks fantastic Ed! It all looks incredibly well put together, truly something to aspire to.
  9. MLGilbert
    John, I didn't order these new trees for a particular horse so I can't speak as to the custom fit, but I'd agree that the finish on the Timberline tree is much nicer than Bowdens.
  10. MLGilbert
    Thanks Rich, this tree was the stock cliff wade from Bowdens, and I was reasonably happy with the tree. It did need leather built up and smoothed out over some of the rawhide lacing. I just bought two custom trees from Timberline in Utah, and at first glance they look like they'll need less cleanup. Have fun with your saddle!
  11. MLGilbert
    Thanks very much Randy!
  12. MLGilbert
    Don Gonzales also has a video on it https://dgsaddlery.com/one-piece-saddle-swell-cover/
  13. MLGilbert
    I like they way you've set up you templates, I may just have to use your idea there! Thank you very much!
  14. MLGilbert
    Ed, thank you so much for all the tips, I really appreciate you taking the time to write it all out! I'll certainly be saving this and looking back for my next saddle. After riding in it for a week I'm really noticing the problem with the ground seat - It's comfortable but at a lope I find that it pushes me back and makes it difficult to keep my seat in the right place. I like that you measure your ground seat off of the stirrup slots, that will help a lot next time. Thanks again! Morgan
  15. MLGilbert
    Thanks John! Actually all I used was neatsfoot oil and skidmore's leather cream, and then buffed. No antique or topcoat at all, I managed to get some pretty good burnishing on the HO and it showed up just fine.
  16. MLGilbert
    Thank you! Thank you Ken, that means a lot! That's really interesting that the first was from the midwest after all, I spoke too soon!
  17. MLGilbert
    Thank you Chuck! These wades are much more popular in the Great Basin area, and California - Oregon. I never heard of cowboys riding wades as far east as Ohio.. I believe the first wades were built in the 1940's in northeast Oregon. Thanks for looking!
  18. MLGilbert
    Thank you! I used the Stohlman encyclopedias, and referenced a few saddlemaking showcase videos. The forum was lots of help as well.
  19. MLGilbert
  20. MLGilbert
    Hi all! I just finished up my first saddle build, built on a 15 1/2" Cliff Wade tree. I had a ton of fun with it, and hope I'll be making many more. I roped in it last night after a few rides and it felt great! I used HO 13-15 skirting leather, and hardware from Jeremiah Watt. Everything was hand stitched (I really need to buy a machine!). I know I need to work on my cantle binding stitching, so any tips on keeping that clean and consistent would be welcome. I want to keep improving and I'd be glad to hear any critiques and advice all of you saddle makers might have!
  21. MLGilbert
    Thanks Buck, I'll see how it goes on the next try!
  22. MLGilbert
    Hi all, I wanted to learn how to braid rawhide so I did some research and some practicing and this is the first braided button that I felt turned out okay, but I need some advice.. How do y’all keep the herringbone pattern from twisting? Also, had anyone made their own skiver for lace?
  23. MLGilbert
    Thanks y’all! Yes I did, slowly trying to improve my designs but I was pretty happy with these ones.
  24. MLGilbert
    Hey all! These are a couple wallets I made recently.. I've been pretty reluctant to sell wallets but I'm growing to enjoy it as I figure out how to work with the thinner leather! I made the two-tone wallet for my dad for Father's Day, and the natural colored one was an order from a friend in California. Both are 4-5 oz HO, with 2-3 oz HO interiors. I'd be glad to hear any advice and critiques! -Morgan Here's the other wallet:
  25. MLGilbert
    Thanks everyone! Unfortunately I didn't take any detail photos before sending it out, but I sandwiched the stiffener between the body and a piece of 4-5 oz on the hip side. I made the stiffener out of some sheet steel I had laying around. I managed to recess the female part of the snap into the 7-8 oz body so it's pretty low profile, and then stiched around it and riveted the stiffener in place. I thought about it but didn't want to put plastic on the holster - I ended up laminating a thin piece of leather over the inside of the snap and feathered it out so it's pretty seamless. Protects the gun just fine and I think looks better than the plastic.
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