MLGilbert

Hi all! I just finished up my first saddle build, built on a 15 1/2" Cliff Wade tree. I had a ton of fun with it, and hope I'll be making many more. I roped in it last night after a few rides and it felt great! I used HO 13-15 skirting leather, and hardware from Jeremiah Watt. Everything was hand stitched (I really need to buy a machine!). I know I need to work on my cantle binding stitching, so any tips on keeping that clean and consistent would be welcome. I want to keep improving and I'd be glad to hear any critiques and advice all of you saddle makers might have!

Thanks Buck, I'll see how it goes on the next try!

Hi all, I wanted to learn how to braid rawhide so I did some research and some practicing and this is the first braided button that I felt turned out okay, but I need some advice.. How do y’all keep the herringbone pattern from twisting? Also, had anyone made their own skiver for lace?

Thanks y’all! Yes I did, slowly trying to improve my designs but I was pretty happy with these ones.

Hey all! These are a couple wallets I made recently.. I've been pretty reluctant to sell wallets but I'm growing to enjoy it as I figure out how to work with the thinner leather! I made the two-tone wallet for my dad for Father's Day, and the natural colored one was an order from a friend in California. Both are 4-5 oz HO, with 2-3 oz HO interiors. I'd be glad to hear any advice and critiques! -Morgan Here's the other wallet:

Thanks everyone! Unfortunately I didn't take any detail photos before sending it out, but I sandwiched the stiffener between the body and a piece of 4-5 oz on the hip side. I made the stiffener out of some sheet steel I had laying around. I managed to recess the female part of the snap into the 7-8 oz body so it's pretty low profile, and then stiched around it and riveted the stiffener in place. I thought about it but didn't want to put plastic on the holster - I ended up laminating a thin piece of leather over the inside of the snap and feathered it out so it's pretty seamless. Protects the gun just fine and I think looks better than the plastic.

Hey everyone! Been a while since I posted, but in the meantime I got an order for a 1911 pancake holster, first one I’ve made! This was also my first time trying any sort of thumb break, so I made my own stiffener and heat treated it, and it work just like it should. I’d like to hear any feedback y’all have! Cheers, Morgan

I actually just bought a mold for that gun - you can find it on ColdSteel for $25. It is made of hard rubber rather than plastic though so it has a little extra friction, but it still worked great for the holster I made. https://www.coldsteel.com/1911-rubber-training-pistol.html Morgan

That's the idea there! Always looking for another excuse

I'm not too worried about a fast, friction-free draw since I don't do CAS. The belt was mostly for fun but I'll be using one holster or the other on horseback, so I like it to have some retention.

Thanks for the tips here! I'm thinking I'll add some removable strips of 7-8 oz to the inside of the skirt that'll keep it "locked" on the belt.

Thanks for the kind words everyone! No pattern packs, but I built the holsters with help from Jim Simmon's guide, and I took some inspiration from Kirkpatrick Leather. You'd be correct, I wanted to minimize the amount of sliding around as I draw. I think it needs a lot of breaking in though, since the belt still slides up when I draw from my right side..

Hey y’all! Just finished up a ranger style rig for my Cimarron Frontier. I’ve only got the one revolver right now but I made both a crossdraw and strongside holster so I had some options.. Someday I hope to fill them both! The holsters and belt are all made with 7-8 oz and lined with 4-5 oz. I hope to get some feedback on this, always looking to learn and improve. Cheers, Morgan

Thanks! I bet that dog must've been an awful big one! Seems like two equal layers helps it hold it's shape too, done a dog collar like that and it turns out really strong.