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LiftPig

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gridley, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, farming, firefighting.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Small goods, Holsters, Firefighter Gear
  • Interested in learning about
    Drawing and carving floral design
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  1. You could skive the edges of the pockets down to feather and that will eliminate some of that bulk. It looks like they're already 1-2oz so there's not much to take off. Keep your shell 4-6 ounce with 1-2 ounce liners and pockets and that's about as good as you can do. Keep in mind that wallets start of bulky and cumbersome then mold themselves to the....user.
  2. Check Makers Leather Supply on YouTube. Aaron Heizer has a video there on how to make his pistol case design (he sells the template). It'll give you some tips on how to negotiate that gusset without losing your sanity.
  3. Hi Doc, How much weight are we talking about? I'm about an hour north of Sacramento. I have a tractor with a bucket that can lift about 1000 pounds. I have a neighbor with a forklift (at least I think he still has it). Also, what's the rough footprint of this beast? Cheers, Jordan
  4. Afternoon, Are you still wanting to sell this clicker? I'm about an hour North of Sacramento.
  5. Hold the phone! Are those holster plates WITH feed dogs?!? Take my money!
  6. That scope cover is beautiful. I need to make me one of those.
  7. Be careful with the screw holding the bottom feed dog in. It’s crazy tight and easy to strip. The screw holding the needle bar is the same. But I’m betting you have experience with that so it shouldn’t be an issue.
  8. Sorry this took so long to post. The top rows are the S point. The bottom two rows are TRI points. #25 needle. I have to say I’m not thrilled with the S point look. 277 thread top and bottom through 24oz of Hermann Oak veg
  9. Beautiful work. I think you're right, as long as I make the loops nice and wide and out of 6oz or greater so they don't stretch I'll be okay. I might sew a 3/8" wide strip right where the shoulder is just for "safety", by which I mean to satisfy a nervous customer who kept asking how I'd ensure that his rounds don't fall out while he walks.
  10. A very slight taper. 0.50" at the shoulder, 0.54" at the rim. Probably enough to keep things in so long as the loops don't stretch too much. The work is for hunting.
  11. I bought a pack of 24's, 25's and 26's. I've been sewing on the 25's but I might try the 24's with the S point and see if I like the look of the stitch better but still having it sinking down a bit. I'll likely buy a pack of TRI/D points in those sizes as well. As I figure it, I'd rather have them on hand if I need them than need them and have to wait for them to ship. The thread chart I refer to says 24 or 25's with 207, 25 or 26 with 277. YRMV.
  12. I've been asked to make a cartridge holder for 6 rounds of 7PRC. I've made bullet loops before but never for rimless cartridges. To keep the rounds from sliding down and out of the loops, what's everyone done? I was thinking of embedding a piece of nylon cord under the top layer of leather for the shoulder to butt up against or even to use domed rivets but if there's a better way, I'd do that. Cheers, -J
  13. An S point needle looks like a chisel and makes a perfectly flat hole running parallel to the line of stitching. It will look a lot like the LL but without a hint of diagonal like you see with the LL and REALLY see with the LR. The stitch pulls really tight into the leather. I can post up a picture in a few hours when I get home. I'm not sure I love the way the stitch looks but I do like how deep it sets - no worries about fraying threads in my holsters.
  14. Beautiful work. I love a tooled holster as much as the next holster builder but there's something elegant in a well done rough-out rig. Three questions since I'm considering building one: 1. How thick of steel did you put in the deflector? 2. What size thread did you use to stitch it? Looks like 346 but the weight is perfect for the rig. 3. Did you make your own pattern or is this one I could get somewhere? Cheers, J
  15. Thanks for the replies. I've been sewing on a Class 26 for a bit now and never lubed my threads or used any kind of grease. I just give all the points a drop of oil every 8 hours or so. I'm guessing this was just a preference for the previous operator. I have a few pounds of 277 bonded nylon showing up from LMC today that I'll start using and I'll wipe the goop off the linkages this weekend and give it another good thorough oiling. I'm so excited to start working with this machine. Cheers, -J
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