DoogMeister

Looks better than my early work. Practice smoothing out your beveling - such as around the dancer's head. Take smaller steps when moving the beveler and work at holding it absolutely vertical. You may want to obtain several bevelers in different sizes. Than has helped me, especially in tight corners. Also keep the beveling a more consistent depth. Compare the lower side of the dancer's arms with the top of her shoulders and around the back of her dress. You can re-case the leather and go over these areas, so nothing lost except for time spent, and you learn something while doing that. Practice on scraps. Above all, keep going and don't get discouraged.

Have used a small grinder to shorten the snap post when using lighter leather, such as 4-5 oz. Not the best solution for high-volume work, but it does produce a seated snap w/o the bend you have been experiencing.

very nice.

Very nice work. Like you, I am a retired Marine, and have taken to making knives the same way - buying the blades and adding scales and making sheaths. My wife keeps asking me what I'm going to do with them. Need to re-size some pics so I can upload.

I find the Adams Leather Works you tube videos quite helpful and informative. Have made several holsters - both pancake and Avenger styles - using his techniques.

I built this pony with scrap laying around the garage. Works quite well. https://www.instructables.com/Simple-and-Cheap-Stitching-Pony/ Or look at this: http://rogueleather.com/2010/11/project-stitching-horse/ There is a set of plans here:

I use a dremel tool with a felt wheel and jeweler's rouge to keep my edgers polished and sharp. Make sure the wheel is turning away from the cutting edge.

Awesome.

Been using a Badger airbrush and compressor (no tank) for models for maybe 30 years, no problems. Got a Harbor Freight airbrush to use for leather, so no potential of cross-contamination with paint thinner and alcohol used to clean them. I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning out leather dye, and hot water for finishes such as Resolene (which I thin 50/50 with water). Always disassemble and soak the tool after running alcohol or water through it to clear out the residual. Have not had a problem in the 3 years or so that I've been doing that. Use a HF compressor that has air pressure adjustment (no tank). Haven't touched the pressure adjustment since I made the initial adjustment. I always test the flow to make sure it's what I want before spraying leather. Wipe the tip of the airbrush with a piece of tissue after you've set the airbrush down for even a few seconds, then test spray. No moisture trap, but where I live humidity is not an issue - we start complaining if it gets to 20%. I DO have one on the rig I use for models, as I used to live in a very humid environment. The only times my HF airbrush has puked on something were from the cup, which has no lid. I chalk that up to operator error. I suggest practice on something like cereal box cardboard . A bit of dye will buy a lot of learning.

Very nice!

Love the simplicity of the cartridge loops.

have only used 91% isopropyl alcohol with good results.

I picked up a piece of leather similar to yours on a clearance from a big box arts and crafts store about a month ago, with some folding issues although not as severe as yours. I wet the leather on both sides, then rolled it around a large (maybe from a piece of carpet?) cardboard tube I had been using for something else. Took two or three iterations of this, but it finally went almost completely away. Hope that helps.

Have used Feibing's leather sheen applied with an airbrush (not the aerosol can product). I buy a 6oz? bottle from Hobby Lobby. No problems.

Got the Harbor Freight Deluxe airbrush. I use Feibing's pro dyes, almost always straight. Use91% Isopropyl alcohol for thinning and cleaning.