LiftPig

Hold the phone! Are those holster plates WITH feed dogs?!? Take my money!

That scope cover is beautiful. I need to make me one of those.

Be careful with the screw holding the bottom feed dog in. It’s crazy tight and easy to strip. The screw holding the needle bar is the same. But I’m betting you have experience with that so it shouldn’t be an issue.

Sorry this took so long to post. The top rows are the S point. The bottom two rows are TRI points. #25 needle. I have to say I’m not thrilled with the S point look. 277 thread top and bottom through 24oz of Hermann Oak veg

Beautiful work. I think you're right, as long as I make the loops nice and wide and out of 6oz or greater so they don't stretch I'll be okay. I might sew a 3/8" wide strip right where the shoulder is just for "safety", by which I mean to satisfy a nervous customer who kept asking how I'd ensure that his rounds don't fall out while he walks.

A very slight taper. 0.50" at the shoulder, 0.54" at the rim. Probably enough to keep things in so long as the loops don't stretch too much. The work is for hunting.

I bought a pack of 24's, 25's and 26's. I've been sewing on the 25's but I might try the 24's with the S point and see if I like the look of the stitch better but still having it sinking down a bit. I'll likely buy a pack of TRI/D points in those sizes as well. As I figure it, I'd rather have them on hand if I need them than need them and have to wait for them to ship. The thread chart I refer to says 24 or 25's with 207, 25 or 26 with 277. YRMV.

I've been asked to make a cartridge holder for 6 rounds of 7PRC. I've made bullet loops before but never for rimless cartridges. To keep the rounds from sliding down and out of the loops, what's everyone done? I was thinking of embedding a piece of nylon cord under the top layer of leather for the shoulder to butt up against or even to use domed rivets but if there's a better way, I'd do that. Cheers, -J

An S point needle looks like a chisel and makes a perfectly flat hole running parallel to the line of stitching. It will look a lot like the LL but without a hint of diagonal like you see with the LL and REALLY see with the LR. The stitch pulls really tight into the leather. I can post up a picture in a few hours when I get home. I'm not sure I love the way the stitch looks but I do like how deep it sets - no worries about fraying threads in my holsters.

Beautiful work. I love a tooled holster as much as the next holster builder but there's something elegant in a well done rough-out rig. Three questions since I'm considering building one: 1. How thick of steel did you put in the deflector? 2. What size thread did you use to stitch it? Looks like 346 but the weight is perfect for the rig. 3. Did you make your own pattern or is this one I could get somewhere? Cheers, J

Thanks for the replies. I've been sewing on a Class 26 for a bit now and never lubed my threads or used any kind of grease. I just give all the points a drop of oil every 8 hours or so. I'm guessing this was just a preference for the previous operator. I have a few pounds of 277 bonded nylon showing up from LMC today that I'll start using and I'll wipe the goop off the linkages this weekend and give it another good thorough oiling. I'm so excited to start working with this machine. Cheers, -J

Buy once cry once. I'd be very nervous buying something this expensive and tempermental from a company I'd never heard of and couldn't call back for support.

The Cowboy 4500, Cobra Class 4, Cobra Class 3, Artisan Toro 3200 and some others are all 441 clones and essentially the same with some differences in arm length. It really comes down to customer support. What are you wanting your new machine to do that your 4500 can't do?

That looks like some kind of upholstery leather that's embossed and glazed on the top side. It's doubtful that it's top grain leather and wouldn't hold up well to the kind of wear and tear that a wallet would have to endure. Springfield Leather Supply and Don Gonzalez Saddlery both sell wallet kits that are excellent. -J

Morning everyone, I just bought a used Artisan Toro 3200 and have a couple questions about lubrication. The story on this machine is that a friend of my wife's bought it in 2010 on impulse and then didn't use it. It was then leased to a local car upholstery company from about 2011 to 2018. I have no idea how many hours are on it. It's been sitting covered and inside the house since 2018. When I went to look at it, it was nice and clean, still threaded, and appeared in good shape. I put a drop of oil in all the spots indicated in the manual and it sewed great. So here's my questions. First, it looks like the previous operator put some kind of grease on all the linkages, perhaps in lieu of oil. Should I leave this and oil around it, leave it and don't bother with oil, wipe it off and proceed to use oil, or scrub it off with solvent and then use oil? The machine isn't caked with grease by any means, it looks like it was thoughtfully done but I've never seen grease on these machines. My second question is about lubricating the thread. It looks to me that the bobbin thread has been waxed or has some kind of lube on it but is this necessary? The bobbin wasn't stored in the machine so I don't think it's oil that drizzled down, I think it was put there intentionally. Again, just haven't seen this before. Cheers, Jordan