TonyGreen3455

old story actually, but anyway you right - with my semi-hobbyist usage it shouldn't be an issue, but...

digging the net for some info, found this phrase from hightex guy: "Cowboy CB3200 is a great leather sewing machine for hobby marekt. The performance is NOT as good as Adler 205 and Juki TSC-441. We do not it recommend to professional manufacturers that run the machine for over 8 hours every day." for some unknown reason I'm hearing behind these words - it is weak semi-domestic machine with some alu or plastic inner parts which can't run for a long. CB3200 owners - can you prove or disprove it? I'm not running my machine even for 2 hrs per a day anyway, but after this have to think twice. otherwise - what performance he is talking about? and BTW - can you recognise CB3200 seams? DA205? 441? is there any visible difference on the final results?

first of ALL - thank you for your reply You right - Adler 205 clone. cylinder arm. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355819813297 no responses from the seller at all. IMO - low price. Sinfer 45K. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186763222897?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=1401378251254ee6ab69110b35ab10d0&bu=42983703480&osub=-1~1&crd=20241105122732&segname=11051 got a message from the seller - selling machine for his father and has no clue about it. vas very tuff in communication. this one a bit closer to me to see it first - should I go to see them and to which one? second - once arriving - what to look for? yes, I'll take my lightest and heavieast leather/threads to try and a my common stuff as well, but from the mechanical side - where the weakest places (especially for S 45k)? I have DA669 already. trying to find a machine for heavier leather up to 15oz and/or for leather edge binding. have to make a decision, but need some advices.

I am in the market for Singer 45K and am looking to purchase it online I've come across one, but it's quite a distance away. The usage, condition, service, and other details - everything advertised is unpredictable. Due to my lack of experience with vintage machines, I am requesting your assistance. 1. What Q's I have to ask the seller prior to travelling? 2. Weak points - where I have to put a special attention on such machine? What else is there to consider besides common sense (backlash, gaps, visible mechanical wear)? And the main issue - is old 45K really worth it? its clutch motor to be replaced in any way.. used adler 250 clone (just 250, not 250-370) offered for double 45k price - should I lean to it?

nice video, thanks for sharing why you choose 750SH over 750SL? is it coming completed with a needle positioner? if not - will it work with non-Kinedyne one? and a main issue - is it really substituting a wheeled speed reducer?

All-time video, many thanks for it! Just a couple of Q's from a newbie: Does it mean, that every time changing needle size up or down on the 205-370 I will need to replace a spacer as well? What if changing the needle to thinner/downward - will a machine sew with a thin needle + thin thread and a thicker spacer? Does it work the same way on all heavy duty barrel machines e.g. 441, CH8, 45K? Or it is particularly for 205-370 only?

All-time video, many thanks for it! Just a couple of Q's from a newbie: Does it mean, that every time changing needle size up or down on the 205-370 I will need to replace a spacer as well? What if changing the needle to thinner/downward - will a machine sew with a thin needle + thin thread and a thicker spacer? Does it work the same way on all heavy duty barrel machines e.g. 441, CH8, 45K? Or it is particularly for 205-370 only?

BTW - your project "Singer 212G" is over? is there any chance to see the result - motor and controller setup, etc. for some reason I'll not be surprised to see it under the machine base ) did you make any cover/handles for it?

looks like better choice for this project - Juki 563 instead of old Singer 111. prices for bouth in the UK very near (sometime). small industrial walking foot machine which will be converted to tabletop for binding - any advise for the machine choice?

hello! great job, many thanks for sharing looks like i'll be the first one in nine to try to repeat this ) regards

hello I stopped immediately after reading this ) sometime we have to think out of the box - many thanks for helping in that great post, many thanks again. start thinking about "singer 111" project - any sugestion what to avoid on this way? PS many thanks to all for your help and advices

hello just now got links to your game-changing setup - is there any chance to get a picture from another side to see how exactly you fix the motor and controller? is it connected to machine's body or just to the base? regards

important note, thank you are there other portable machines that will work with t40 thread or heavier? pfaff 130 can be used for that purpose? and one more thing - will the common vintage Singer (not-walking foot) marks the leather and how to avoid it (if ever possible)

hello some Q's from newby to experts as an amator I'm sewing a bags and some other leather and canvas accesoires. from time to time for small projects it is necessary to edge bag's canvas or cover the edge of the leather (up to 2mm thickness) with a leather tape. have asked for some advice before, and the general opinion was - needed a separate machine, adjusted for these needs only. my sleeved workhorse constantly used for a common sewing tasks. there is an idea to buy a vintage Singer 201k (portable) and use it for it pro's for 201's: portability - there is a critical lack of space! occasional needs sews everything that comming under the foot (almost) finaly - price cons - ??? how the idea looks in general? any opinions for it or machine recomendation welcomed

hello! finally after a long trying, questioning, and online consulting got my skiving machine. "you can buy any cheap clone machine and install there/replace a new good quality bell knife, feeding roller, and a presser foot" - these were in the majority of the advice I got. So, this is done - "brand new" 801's clone at home with a rusty knife and stone roller. now I have a chance ) can anyone suggest a good bell knife brand? do all machines have the same knife? (I mean size compatibility) aliexpress offer "Made in Japan" for 801's for about £55+delivery - is it worth it? anyone knows a reputable shop in the EU or UK where can I get a steel roller and a good knife? advice and suggestions you could give would be much appreciated Tony

hello! can anyone please give me any ideas on how and where can I buy Japanese water buffalo hides? Was trying to find some hide suppliers or tanneries in Japan, but Google was not so helpful in this. advice and suggestions you could give would be much appreciated

I'm in the market for a used skiver. Can anyone explain to a newbie what is the benefit of using machine fitted with a direct drive? Apart from "energy saving" will I see the difference on the leather edge? And one more - on the EU market, you can easily find a few "manufacturers", which make 801 machine's twins which have different shields only. In the case of almost identical parameters, T&C, price, and so on, should I prefer any brand? Thank you

Gents, can you explain to newbie what is the difference between Fiebing's edge dye (pictured) and common fiebing's spirit-based dye? looking for a proper edge paint and found that fiebing's has two colors only: black and brown tubes with a sponge applicator. suddenly found this on the Abbey England website and they offer it in a range of diff colors. so, is it a common paint or "special" - for edges only? what makes it "for edges" if so?

+ interested as well may be not in States only, EU or somewhere else, who can make quality metalworks and post it

that's it! it's wat I need to be done first - put a binder in-line many thanks for sharing, inner mechanic got a point )

gents, reading your conversation and the first and only Q coming - is it worth it? I'm trying to find a solution to bend a leather tape over the canvas or thing leather. genuine leather 0.5-1mm, not fabric tape. my inner designer and marketing director calling "Yes, we need it!" but my inner technician crying reading about all these possible troubles. designer telling - "the real leather tape only, let's keep our level up!", but the technician does not understand how to bend it and pull it out through the binder to get a pro result. KH mailing to me "90° binder is better for binding material with turns", but my common sense disagrees - "no, smaller angle better, keep it straight as possible due to leather friction" and BTW his KHF2 Raw Edge Binder can be fitted at 90° only. so, custom-made binder - the only solution? my inner bookkeeper has tensed up... advice and suggestions you could give would be much appreciated ps my machine is DA669 and I'm in UK

upd from KH "the base bracket of KHF2 can be adjusted the position and removable, but the base bracket of KHF66 is fixed" At the same time KHF2 looks budget and stamped from metal sheet instead of solid brass body of KHF66. Issue not in look only, but IMO brass corners can be easier handled and polished for a light movement of leather. what would you prefer?

thank you, Glenn can anyone find a difference between these two (9$ difference in price) - it is from KH shop both - for small-sized Cylinder Bed Machine, For thin leather and plastic materials. apart of brass/white metal - looks similar. is it because of brass? brass-better? any ideas?