sportycliff

Still looking...

Thanks, Still looking. Converting to 60mm didn't work. Funny, as many of these things that are out there, you'd think ebay and Amazon would be loaded with replacement belts.

Good morning, Does anyone know where I can get sanding drums/belts/sleeves for the cheap Chinese sander/burnisher machines? Approx 2 3/8" diameter x 2" wide? I've searched ebay/Amazon/search engine and can't find any other than Tandy, and they're priced out of sight. I'd hate to have them made if someone is already carrying them in multiple grits. TIA Cliff

Thanks!!

The leather point equivalent to these needles?

I'll check for play tomorrow. I timed it with 2.5 (factory spec)? Packed up and heading to the tech early tomorrow, bit of a ride, but hopefully it'll get straightened out...

I'll check for play tomorrow. I timed it with 2.5 (factory spec)?

checked it and it'll run 207 easily and cleanly.

Same problem with #92...

Found a repair shop only a couple of hours away, going in next Monday.

No difference.

Everything seems perfect. Can easily slide 207 through the notch no hangups anywhere, tried multiple gap hook/needle gap and timing changes, it does seem that sewing speed changes quality from maybe ok on some stitches to loops on others, no consistency at all. I'm down to size 92 and still having the same issues. I don't think it's a tension issue any longer, this machine (by feel) is running MUCH higher tension on 92 than my other is running with 138 or 207 and still loops on the bottom, with shitty stitches all the way around. I'm waiting on slow boat for another feed dog, but now I'm playings part replacer instead of proper diagnosing and doing it right. #Frustration

There would have to be a pulley attached alongside the existing chain hole (I'd use small cable for flexibility) I'd also have to fab up a couple of smaller pedals as there is not enough room even for a single width pedal. All doable of course, but a solenoid and electric momentary pedal would be easier, you do make a point about the full stroke, but isn't that how the pneumatic setups work as well? I will look into pulleys as well.

Mitsubishi CU-865 22 Originally (before I owned) had pneumatic lift. Was removed prior to my ownership. I wouldn't want to deal with a compressor, and mechanical is a no go without some type of pulley re-routing due to the install of a box type speed reducer. With the original Mitsu servo and controller, there is little room down there. I'ver been researching 120v high force linear solenoids such as this... but figure I'd ask if anyone had gone this route or any other thoughts?

I never considered that the closer the hook to the needle the tighter the notch clearance as well, I'll play with the gap some more...Thanks

I've tried two different types of bonded nylon. Both run fine on my other machine. Number 24 has a finger on the bottom side which fits a notch in the hook assembly which stops the center section of the hook from spinning, is that what you mean? I don't mind a little mod work, just want to mod the correct items.

I've got both feet maxed out...doesn't seem to lift at all. I'm looking into adding a pre-tensioner, I didn't realize heavier duty springs were available too, I'll look for both. Thanks.

Any other thoughts?

Ok, just noticed this, not sure if it's relevant. The guy who owned this before me apparently ground the teeth down to almost nothing on the feed dog. I just noticed it was at and/or below the surface of the plate. That may explain the crappy stitching, but would it cause the looping? I tried maxing both foot pressures, and it doesn't change anything... The feet on the machine are smooth, so my guess is that the only thing feeding is the needle. I tried my serrated outside foot from my other machine, maybe a lttle more consistent stitch(?) Maybe wishful thinking. I've ordered a binding set but it's smooth, and apparently the only style on ebay or amazon. Anyone know where to get a serrated dog for one of these?

Not a better day at all. Replaced tensioning system, and adjusted Re-timed hook to factory specs Needle bar 2.4 mm up from bottom .5 mm needle gap, 1-1.5 mm above eye Best I can do on ONE layer of 2.4 mm veg tan...Knots on top And occasional loops on bottom, and a crappy stitch.

While I guess anything's possible, it sews perfectly on my other machine, and on lighter bag leathers. I'll swap it out with something different first thing. I think @wiz may be onto something with the timing. I've changed the timing twice since he posted and had worse results, and slightly better results. I'll try again tomorrow as my arthritis is telling me it's time to quit. I also receive a new tensioner in the mail today, I'll put the timing back to where it was and try that tomorrow just to rule it out, then go back to the timing...will post back.

Leatherpoint, brand new. I will chk the timing.

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