MtlBiker

That storage box looks like exactly what I need for the future. I'd never heard of Wawak before, and I'm glad to see they also have a Canadian site with Canadian prices and free shipping (over $100 orders). I've just ordered three of those boxes as well as some other stuff they have. Thanks for the tip!! Good idea to test the thread via the breaking strength. I'm certainly going to be more careful in the future and have ordered some storage boxes to keep my bobbins more organized.

Pretty dumb I know, but I’ve got half a dozen bobbins wound with v69 and v92 black thread. I’ll blame it on my cat for knocking them off the shelf but now I can’t tell which is which. I tried using a micrometer to measure their thicknesses but that’s probably not possible due to thread compression. What I did was to put the bobbins in a bobbin holder that had the tension set correctly for v92 thread and then check if it was correct or too loose. Is there a better way to tell which is which? What would you do?

Thanks (again!) Ron, But it's a lot of trouble for you and for me if I bring the machine back to you. Can you (or another owner of this model) simply tell me if what I'm seeing is normal and my expectations are too high, or if the machine is out-of-spec and needs to be adjusted. My only experience and comparison is with my other machine. Cheers!

Just wanted to thank you again for your great advice and to let you know how it worked out. (And @dikman too.) My existing pulley was 75mm (stamped on it) and I replaced it with a 45mm pulley and a 38" belt. I'm thrilled with the result! Not as slow as my new Techsew 2750 Pro with speed reducer, but a lot slower than it was before and it's slow enough for me now. I won't have to add a speed reducer to that machine. And to give proper kudos to my dealer, who I first was disappointed with when he said he'd never heard of anyone changing the pulley on that machine and that if I did it the machine wouldn't work. He actually had his shop guys try it and he was kind enough to report to me that it worked well. And he said he was willing to send his guy to me to do the installation. For free! I didn't take him up on that offer because I live close to an hour away from him and that would have cost him too much money. And I'm reasonably mechanically inclined so I went to him with the old belt and pulley and he wanted to just swap it out for me as a straight exchange. I didn't want that, because I thought it would be nice to be able to return the machine back to stock if needed, so he charged me $15 (Canadian!) for the new pulley and belt. He scored points with me for all that. Cheers!

I'd love to hear from other 2750 owners about how accurate their stitch length settings are. Maybe in my inexperience, I'm just being too picky... Overall I really love my new Techsew 2750 PRO... With the optional speed reducer I can sew slower than one stitch per second for full control, the laser guide is great, and I particularly like the needle positioning (NP) motor. I've got it set to always stop with the needle in the material so turning sharp corners is really neat and easy. But I'm a bit bummed out by the stitch length accuracy or lack of it. With the help of their email tech support, I got it so that the "4" position is as close to 4mm as possible (it actually gives 4.5mm). But setting the dial to "1" gives me a 3mm stitch. The max setting of "9.5" gives me only a 8mm stitch length. Are my expectations of accuracy on this too high? The only machine I can compare with is my Consew 206RB-5, which as near as I can measure (with a digital caliper) is bang on. Even up to the 10 setting with 10mm stitches. Are my expectations too high? The only time I think this might matter is when/if I need to match a stitch length on something. Otherwise who cares if it's 8 or 10mm, etc.? Is this what other 2750 owners are experiencing? Should I just live with this or should I bring it back to Techsew after the holidays (and the upcoming forced business closures) to see if they can adjust it better. Tech support tells me there is no engineer guide or any guide for more in-depth adjustment.

Okay thanks... I understand. But what you said does not apply to ALL flatbed machines. My Consew 206RB-5 for example, doesn't require the machine to be tilted to replace the bobbin. You just reach under the table and pop it in place. You don't even have to see it, but sliding open the cover does help. My only experience with industrial machines is the 206RB-5 and my new 2750 Pro, so that's why I didn't understand your comment. Cheers!

Thank you Wizcrafts! I don't quite understand your comment though (bolded, above) about not being so easy to back stitch on a side loader... I mean, you've run out of bobbin thread, removed the work, installed a new bobbin and started sewing and back stitching. How is that operation different on a top or side loading machine? Anyway, you've answered my main question about this, and that is to continue sewing from where you ran out of bobbin thread instead of ripping out the stitch you'd already done and starting over. Cheers!

I guess my inexperience is showing again, but how do you folks manage your bobbin threads? What do you do when/if you run out of bobbin thread while sewing a long seam? At the start and finish of my sewing I usually backstitch to lock the threads and then use a thread burner to seal the thread ends. If I run out of bobbin thread in the middle of stitching something the end isn't locked with backstitching... what should I do? Thread rip the whole thing and start again (and some material would show the needle holes if I did this) or somehow restart the stitching from where it had ended? What should I do to lock the first thread? Is there a technique for continuing a stitch after having run out of bobbin thread? And what do you do when you don't know if there is enough thread left on the bobbin to do your stitch? Simply replace it with a full bobbin just in case? Throw out whatever was left on the bobbin? I guess the cost of thread is insignificant in the overall scheme of things but I'm bothered by wasting what might be many feet of thread. And I can't imagine storing lots of bobbins with only some thread left on them. I tell you guys, the things I don't know about sewing would fill a book!

Thanks. That looks like a good thread, but unfortunately the Canadian source (from their link) appears to only carry their embroidery threads and not the Serabond or Serafil WR (only regular Serafil).

How the heck do you know about ALL this stuff! No wonder there's a WIZ in your name! I'd never heard of Cansew and first thought you'd mistyped Consew. I just checked their site (your link) and the price is a bit higher than what I've been paying for Sunguard and Sunstop threads. Their product may be good, but I feel more confident with a brand that I see as much more common. Even though YOUR recommendation carries a lot of weight.

Great! I didn't know A&E also had offices in Canada. And you can buy directly from them?? And you have Sunstop in V138? I'd been searching in Canada and couldn't find other than V92. And a Google search on "Sunstop thread Canada" doesn't turn up much, other than JT's where I've been buying the V92. I'll do another search for American & Efird. (BTW, I found a source for leather here... I bought a piece of lambskin and another of calf leather and also got a bunch of scraps to experiment with. Happy!) Update: A&E is HERE in Montreal!! Until you mentioned it I had no idea. Thank you! And their prices are better than I'd been paying AND they have all the sizes too. I owe you one. But you also mentioned edging. From A&E? What kind of edging? A binding for finished edges?

Fellow Canuk here... I just bought a new Techsew 2750 PRO, and I must say I'm thrilled with it (other than for a couple of minor issues). I also have a flatbed Consew 206RB-5, so I don't really see myself installing the flatbed table attachment for the 2750. I got the 2750 with speed reducer and it's incredible... I can just tap the foot pedal and it will sew just one stitch at a time. Great for control. And at continuous sewing I can slow it down to one stitch per second or even slower. And the needle position (NP) motor is also great. I've seen mentioned that some folks rarely use it, but as quite a beginner I'm finding it very useful. With that set, the machine can be set to always stop with the needle positioned in the material so turning corners is a breeze. Good luck with your search!

I'm a bit confused about bonded polyester threads... I've been buying Sunstop and Sunguard threads from a Canadian supplier (https://www.jtsoutdoorfabrics.com/Sewing-Thread_c_2854.html) and both claim to be uv-resistant bonded polyester for outdoor use. The Sunguard is slightly more expensive than the Sunstop but it's available in 16oz as well as 8oz spools while the Sunstop is only 8oz. Also Sunguard is available in B-92 and B-138 while the Sunstop is only V-92. And is there any significance between "B" and "V" (B-92 vs V-92)? Is that interchangeable? Any opinions about whether one of these brands is better than the other?

I've got no real idea yet of what I want to make. I'm just getting started. So I've been looking more for ideas and techniques to learn than anything targeted at a specific type of bag. I'm just getting my feet wet before jumping into the pool. I've only been sewing for a couple of months now, so I'm a real beginner. I've made (and am selling) wine totes and firewood totes, as well as padded sleeves to protect notebook computers. I'd certainly like to make classic style handbags and lots of other things until I find my niche. Shipped from Canada? From whom? So far I've seen it coming from Europe or the US.

I'm not on FB either, and don't plan to be.

I'm not quite sure I follow you... You talk about Valeria Michael's book, but the link you included was for the expensive Ellen Valentine book. Was your comment about that book or the Valeria Michael one?

I've been looking for sources of cheap leather, but again, since I'm in Canada, buying from a US supplier and paying the (usually exorbitant) shipping to Canada, often brokerage, allowing for the exchange rate, etc. just makes that less than ideal. I've been searching for a source (I'm in a big city and there should be a place) and have a lead on a possible supplier. I hope to confirm that in the next couple of days. In the meanwhile I am sure I can buy some faux leather... do you think that would be good to experiment with and prototype?

I've seen Nigel's book recommended before, even though it's just come out (in most places). And Kasia Ehrharadt's book looked good and was recommended to me by @Hardrada in another thread about linings. Anyway, I've ordered the three I mentioned. What is "RML"? I just searched Ellen Valentine and that book does indeed look like a good one. But I couldn't find anywhere what currency the price is... if it's in US dollars then it's over $100 Canadian, which is really a lot. Plus shipping! (Guessing from Europe?) I'll wait until I get the books I ordered and then maybe I'll treat myself to this one.

Is there a recommended book on general bag making techniques? Leather and/or other materials? I'm looking to learn techniques and get ideas about general bag construction and patterns. Looking on Amazon there are a gazillion books, but the reviews seem all over the map. I'm just ordering Nigel Armitage's "Leathercraft: Traditional Handcrafted Leatherwork Skills and Projects", Valeria Michael's "Leatherworking Handbook: A Practical Illustrated Sourcebook of Techniques and Projects" and Kasia Ehrhardt's "Leather Bags: 14 Stylish Designs to Sew for any Occasion." Before moving into expensive leather, I want to practice and experiment with Cordura and faux-leather, so a general bag making book would be most helpful to me at this point. Thanks!

Just spoke with my Consew dealer, who is supposedly the Consew distributor for Eastern Canada. I must say, I was less than impressed. He said he's never heard of anyone wanting to slow down the 206RB-5 and he also said that you cannot change the motor pulley. Then he said if you change it, the motor doesn't understand it and it won't work. SIGH I also asked him about the machine not sewing if the speed knob is set to 350 (lowest marked click stop) and he didn't know. But he has promised to test out another machine he has there and let me know. But from the way he responded, they don't have a speed reducer nor smaller pulley, nor have they ever had a request to slow the machine down. Less than impressed with him/them. If I'm not mistaken, even Consew sells a 45mm pulley for this.

Not a banana republic, but as per the suggestions here, I ordered from eBay. And the product is coming on a slow boat from China. I've left a message for Ron at Techsew for him to call me but he hasn't yet. I planned to ask him if he had the pulley I want. And on their site they have a very reasonable price (I think) for a speed reducer, but it's listed as out of stock. I'm just not sure about the fitting of the speed reducer as there are no pre-drilled holes for it on my table and it looks like there might not be enough room between the existing servo motor and the machine itself to fit the reducer there. (Guessing that by looking at the speed reducer on my 2750.) So a smaller pulley might be all I need for that machine and it would be the easiest solution. If I need to sew slower than that I would just use the 2750. (It's really nice!) "Yellow Pages"???? Is that something that existed before the Internet? I think I've heard of it. I'm also waiting for my Consew dealer to get in... seems he has even less than banker's hours. He must have something that would work.

Thanks! Just ordered a 45mm pulley. For the low price I guess I can't go wrong, but delivery is stated to be between Dec 31st and MARCH 5th!!! Gonna be a long wait. If I can find something locally, even if double or triple the price, I'm going to get it. And I guess there's nothing special about the belt? Just the length?

Wow! You've been busy! It all looks so professional and well-organized. I wish I had the time, knowledge and equipment to do stuff like that. Kudos to you! My own organization at my sewing machines is simply a couple of rare earth magnets that hold my small scissors and tweezers. I keep my bobbins in the drawer. Cheers!

The dial on my servo motor has click stops and it doesn't go below 350, but at that point it doesn't sew. I'm going to re-align the knob so that the current 350 will be the new 0. That would make sense to me. Is the shaft (inside) diameter of motor pulleys all the same? How do you calculate the length of the new belt needed? Thanks for your help!

Yes, it does seem to be about 70mm (I'd have to remove the belt cover to really confirm). So you're suggesting simply replacing the pulley on the motor with a smaller diameter one, right? But I'm not understanding your comment that if I do that, I'd have to find a longer belt. Wouldn't the belt have to be shorter if the motor pulley diameter is reduced? What am I missing? With a 50mm pulley, it would be an improvement in slow speed sewing, right? But not as good as if I got a speed reducer of some kind. Would you suggest trying this route first? And then if not good enough, to look at other options? I'm such a newbie with this stuff. Thanks. I'll check with the dealer to see if he has a "canned" speed reducer package I can buy.