TomE
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Posts posted by TomE
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Your tutorial is a welcome resource, Jonas. I was sewing from the top, around the bottom, and back up the other side. That was causing lots of problems with the lining and zipper moving, and breaking needles crossing the zipper to sew up the other side. I was putting a metal bottom stop on the zipper and have stopped doing that. Will try your suggestions at my earliest opportunity. Thanks a lot!
PS How do you treat the top of the zipper? Do you add top stops? Do you remove teeth and fold the tape back on itself?
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It's been a few years since I priced pricking irons. These particular irons are well made and should last a lifetime for marking, not punching, holes. An overstitch wheel will do the job as well.
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5 hours ago, bsshog40 said:
Those are nice. I may have to save up for those. I have an awl also but I'm really not big on round holes. I also have a stitching wheel that I got a while back. I need to get that out and practice with it also.
Thanks for the response!
A sewing awl has a diamond profile that pairs nicely with the pricking irons. The tip of the awl is sharp and the shank is polished to stretch the hole, which closes up after the stitch is made. Enables fine stitching with the thread filling the holes.
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I use an overstitch wheel or these pricking irons to mark holes https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/rocky-mountain-premium-pricking-irons. I make the holes with Osborne sewing awls of various sizes. A sharp awl works well for thick leather, irregular shapes, and sewing under fixed loops/keepers. The awls get smaller as they are repeatedly sharpened, so I can match a range of thread sizes.
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Need to determine if the uneven absorption is intrinsic to the leather versus a result of glue bleeding through to the grain. I woud check whether a scrap of the same leather takes up water or neatsfoot oil evenly, then explore other causes from there. Uneven density of the fibers in the leather can affect how it absorbs dye and other liquids. Some parts of the hide are less uniform in structure and tanning faults (= cheap leather) can also contribute. A possible remedy is casing the leather or lightly oiling before dyeing to open up the spaces between the fibers .
Contaminants that interfere with dye uptake can be cleaned off the surface with a solution of oxalic acid. A few teaspoons in a quart of warm water. Oxalic acid is a mild bleaching agent used by saddlers to prep leather for dyeing.
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9 hours ago, Trox said:
Hi, is it your machine in the video? You are wild Harry? I'm looking for a wide guide like the one on you skiver. That roller foot also looks good, I got one that came with my machine but it's pretty worn out. Where did you get this. Thanks Tor
Fratelli Alberti (FAV) has a wide guide https://www.fratellialberti.com/en/spare-parts/1244/ and a 30 mm roller foot https://www.fratellialberti.com/en/34-mm-presser-feet/1498-c/ . The FAV parts that I've purchased through Campbell-Randall have been a good fit for my Techsew SK-4 bell skiver.
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14 hours ago, RehsEmporium said:
Yeah,watched lots of videos , even this one , and read so many things … and personally I don’t like the Resolene look so much . I’m also more for finishes the still allows you to condition the leather . In fact I’ve been using tan kote - antique - tank kote, and I’m good with it ! (if there are painted ares , I seal only those part first with an acrilic finish -Angelus 4 coat satin - cause I noticed tan kote remove a bit of paint )
But since it’s about dog collars I’m afraid that under the rain/snow/or whatever, the collar can be ruined easily, or that antique or dye can come off … so wanted to seal them in a better/waterproofing way but still be able to oil them once in a while, in order to have a long lasting item
for this last dog collar after the final coat of tank kote , I put a neatfoot oil/beeswax mix (like a balm I made) it’s not bad but …
I also read about Sno-seal , but it seems like it darken leather and makes it more rigid
sorry for the long text 😅 I’m really trying to figure out the best way and not having the possibility to easily have access to some products make it harder.
thank you so much for answering ! (Started to think I was the only one not liking Resolene that much 😂)
For me, the key is educating clients about the maintenance of leather items used outdoors. Some do a good job and their items last a long time.
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Depends on your goal for "sealing" the leather. Compared to Resolene, Tan-Kote is less shiny and allows penetration of water, oils and conditioners. I avoid Resolene for tack and outdoor items because it wears off and leaves an uneven finish. Tan-Kote adds a litte shine while allowing the tack to be maintained by cleaning, conditioning, etc.
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Sewing with a jerk needle is an option if you have limited access to the back side. Just need to feel the tip of the needle (inserted from the front) and loop the thread over the hook of the needle then pull back. This creates a lockstitch similar to a sewing machine. I've used this to repair boots. The jerk needle is used like a speedy stitcher, but it is a simple/traditional tool without a bobbin. I use a sewing awl to make the holes and the jerk needle to make the stitches. Can buy an American straight needle (#5 or #6) at the site below and chuck it in a pegging awl haft. Lots of YouTube videos on using a speedy stitcher/jerk needle.
https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/machine-needles/
https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/awl-hafts/
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1 hour ago, Samer said:
Hey Tom, appreciate your input. Actually, I have two Claes machines, which do the job perfectly. Specially on zippers. Besides zippers though I also do quite a bit of alterations to the calf area of the boots. I purchased an Adler 669 which sews perfectly however I think with a post bed walking foot I have more maneuverability. She sold the 669. And I’m now looking at the Techsew 850, and I was wondering if the Techsew is a reliable machine?
Got it. No experience with Techsew sewing machines, but I’ve been happy with their bell skiver and service. I’d enjoy learning how you make alterations to riding boots, if you’re inclined to show your methods. Most of my experience is tack/strap goods.
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I use a patcher for replacing zippers on riding boots. Before I got a patcher I would sew most of the zipper with a cylinder arm machine, and finish the bottom end by hand sewing with a jerk needle. The patcher does a neater job. Here's a thread that might be useful.
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13 hours ago, JDFred said:
Thank you. I agree with you and Jonas about the buckle I’ll have to try that the next time. Do you have any good tips on edge dying as I always make a mess of it and get it on the front a back of the project, so o try to stay away from it. However you are right it would make it look a lot nicer. As for my burnishing I use glycerin saddle soap and water. I’ve been thinking of trying Tokenol or similar product, would that be a good direction to go? Thank you again.
My favorite dye applicator is a small block of needled felt held in a clothespin. About 3/8" thick x 1-1/2" x 3/4". I bought the felt from Beiler's Manufacturing for a repair job and found it holds a lot of dye without dripping. Other applicators I have used are a block of Magic Eraser foam, and a regular wool dauber with the loose fibers removed by singeing in a flame. When dyeing an edge I hold the strap vertically so any drips tend to run down the edge. You might find it easier to dye the edge after an initial round of burnishing with saddle soap so that the applicator runs smoothly along the edge.
I typically start with dyeing the edges, waiting a few minutes for the surface to dry then adding a bit of saddle soap and burnishing with canvas or a power burnisher. If needed, I'll do a bit of light sanding with 320 or 400 grit abrasive paper while the edge is still damp. I finish with tokonole or Martin's Edge Solution. Ron's Tools sells an edge rub solution that I have been meaning to try.
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That's a handsome piece of work! Nice design and execution. I second Jonas' suggestion of sewing the buckle instead of using rivets that can pull out. Another idea would be to dye the edges a darker brown and burnish them smooth. Look forward to seeing more of your work.
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Once you determine that the machine is turning in the correct direction, you can adjust the walking foot mechanism per this excellent video from @Uwe Gross. His video on setting the hook timing for the Juki 441 class machines is also very instructive.
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Maine thread does have a lot of wax that gets dry/flakey during storage. I store it in ziplock bags. For some projects I'll add a little cobbler's wax (mixture of pine resin and beeswax) to freshen it up. I use heavy brown wrapping paper to burnish/smooth the wax on the threads before hand sewing. The paper absorbs some of the wax and the friction melts it and evens it out. For most hand sewing I am using bonded nylon thread from my sewing machine and waxing/burnishing it before use.
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Well done! I haven't gotten the hang of using an edge guide - I like to have my hands on both sides of the strap. Like Jonas, I mark the stitch line before sewing, with a pair of dividers. I try to avoid stitching across the width of a strap. If needed you can sew in a "W" pattern from one side to the other. This avoids a stitch line that is perpendicular to the pulling stress on the strap.
Beautiful dog. As a boy, I went quail hunting with a fellow whose weimeraner "Blue" was so well trained. I was a novice hunter and just spent the morning watching them work together.
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My 29-18 is very happy with V92 thread (top and bottom), and I occasionally run V138 top and bottom. I am mainly sewing boot zippers and horse blankets where it is convenient to change directions with the rotating head. You got a real bargain! I paid twice that for an older, white 29-18 that had seen little use. I bought a spare bobbin case and presser foot from LMC. I did take the sharp edges off the presser foot teeth using some 600 grit abrasive paper and a buffing wheel. It feels about the same as the new unmodified foot but the marking is less noticeable. I like @Wizcrafts's more conservative approach.
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I have found precious few resources for English saddle making. I have a few old books that are fun to read, but I've been told by a retired saddler that the described methods are out of date. They are "Making a Saddle" (Council for Small Industries in Rural Areas), "To Handmake a Saddle" (JHL Shields), and "The Saddler" (Sidney A. Davis). Abbey England has some of the supplies, but I see that most of the trees listed on their website are out of stock. YouTube has some videos on English saddle making but they are a superficial overview.
Let me know if you find anything useful.
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Looks like a winner! Are you heating it? Can you show a picture of the crease line?
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I really enjoyed this. Thanks for sharing. Great to see them carrying on the tradition.
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Thanks, Jonas. I would welcome a tutorial. I am still learning to use a patcher. Its walking foot is more prone to slip than the compound walking foot machines I am used to. I did smooth and polish the foot to decrease marks on the leather but it still has a fairly positive transport action. Trying to power through the learning curve on boot zippers and I’d welcome any advice.
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Neat solution! Would require a big cow for 8+ ft reins. Now I'm thinking that I need to make a pair.
p.s. Just finished replacing zippers on the boots-from-hell. Tonics tall boots with a curved zipper on the outside of the leg. They were so heavily oiled that barge cement and/or sticky basting tape wouldn't hold the layers together for sewing. Had to manhandle them and broke a couple of needles, but all's well that ends well.
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The Stohlman books on leather tools, hand sewing, and case making are good general references. See also books and DVDs at the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal online store.
Leather covered bit, replacement of the leather
in Saddle and Tack Accessory Items
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Good looking stitching, Jonas. Stohlman's hand sewing book shows a baseball stitch using one needle. I couldn't get that method to look tidy, so I am using 2 needles now. Looks like you do the same.