TomE

For me, the key is educating clients about the maintenance of leather items used outdoors. Some do a good job and their items last a long time.

Depends on your goal for "sealing" the leather. Compared to Resolene, Tan-Kote is less shiny and allows penetration of water, oils and conditioners. I avoid Resolene for tack and outdoor items because it wears off and leaves an uneven finish. Tan-Kote adds a litte shine while allowing the tack to be maintained by cleaning, conditioning, etc.

Sewing with a jerk needle is an option if you have limited access to the back side. Just need to feel the tip of the needle (inserted from the front) and loop the thread over the hook of the needle then pull back. This creates a lockstitch similar to a sewing machine. I've used this to repair boots. The jerk needle is used like a speedy stitcher, but it is a simple/traditional tool without a bobbin. I use a sewing awl to make the holes and the jerk needle to make the stitches. Can buy an American straight needle (#5 or #6) at the site below and chuck it in a pegging awl haft. Lots of YouTube videos on using a speedy stitcher/jerk needle. https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/machine-needles/ https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/awl-hafts/

Got it. No experience with Techsew sewing machines, but I’ve been happy with their bell skiver and service. I’d enjoy learning how you make alterations to riding boots, if you’re inclined to show your methods. Most of my experience is tack/strap goods.

I use a patcher for replacing zippers on riding boots. Before I got a patcher I would sew most of the zipper with a cylinder arm machine, and finish the bottom end by hand sewing with a jerk needle. The patcher does a neater job. Here's a thread that might be useful.

My favorite dye applicator is a small block of needled felt held in a clothespin. About 3/8" thick x 1-1/2" x 3/4". I bought the felt from Beiler's Manufacturing for a repair job and found it holds a lot of dye without dripping. Other applicators I have used are a block of Magic Eraser foam, and a regular wool dauber with the loose fibers removed by singeing in a flame. When dyeing an edge I hold the strap vertically so any drips tend to run down the edge. You might find it easier to dye the edge after an initial round of burnishing with saddle soap so that the applicator runs smoothly along the edge. I typically start with dyeing the edges, waiting a few minutes for the surface to dry then adding a bit of saddle soap and burnishing with canvas or a power burnisher. If needed, I'll do a bit of light sanding with 320 or 400 grit abrasive paper while the edge is still damp. I finish with tokonole or Martin's Edge Solution. Ron's Tools sells an edge rub solution that I have been meaning to try.

That's a handsome piece of work! Nice design and execution. I second Jonas' suggestion of sewing the buckle instead of using rivets that can pull out. Another idea would be to dye the edges a darker brown and burnish them smooth. Look forward to seeing more of your work.

Once you determine that the machine is turning in the correct direction, you can adjust the walking foot mechanism per this excellent video from @Uwe Gross. His video on setting the hook timing for the Juki 441 class machines is also very instructive.

Maine thread does have a lot of wax that gets dry/flakey during storage. I store it in ziplock bags. For some projects I'll add a little cobbler's wax (mixture of pine resin and beeswax) to freshen it up. I use heavy brown wrapping paper to burnish/smooth the wax on the threads before hand sewing. The paper absorbs some of the wax and the friction melts it and evens it out. For most hand sewing I am using bonded nylon thread from my sewing machine and waxing/burnishing it before use.

Well done! I haven't gotten the hang of using an edge guide - I like to have my hands on both sides of the strap. Like Jonas, I mark the stitch line before sewing, with a pair of dividers. I try to avoid stitching across the width of a strap. If needed you can sew in a "W" pattern from one side to the other. This avoids a stitch line that is perpendicular to the pulling stress on the strap. Beautiful dog. As a boy, I went quail hunting with a fellow whose weimeraner "Blue" was so well trained. I was a novice hunter and just spent the morning watching them work together.

My 29-18 is very happy with V92 thread (top and bottom), and I occasionally run V138 top and bottom. I am mainly sewing boot zippers and horse blankets where it is convenient to change directions with the rotating head. You got a real bargain! I paid twice that for an older, white 29-18 that had seen little use. I bought a spare bobbin case and presser foot from LMC. I did take the sharp edges off the presser foot teeth using some 600 grit abrasive paper and a buffing wheel. It feels about the same as the new unmodified foot but the marking is less noticeable. I like @Wizcrafts's more conservative approach.

I have found precious few resources for English saddle making. I have a few old books that are fun to read, but I've been told by a retired saddler that the described methods are out of date. They are "Making a Saddle" (Council for Small Industries in Rural Areas), "To Handmake a Saddle" (JHL Shields), and "The Saddler" (Sidney A. Davis). Abbey England has some of the supplies, but I see that most of the trees listed on their website are out of stock. YouTube has some videos on English saddle making but they are a superficial overview. Let me know if you find anything useful.

Looks like a winner! Are you heating it? Can you show a picture of the crease line?

I really enjoyed this. Thanks for sharing. Great to see them carrying on the tradition.

Thanks, Jonas. I would welcome a tutorial. I am still learning to use a patcher. Its walking foot is more prone to slip than the compound walking foot machines I am used to. I did smooth and polish the foot to decrease marks on the leather but it still has a fairly positive transport action. Trying to power through the learning curve on boot zippers and I’d welcome any advice.

Neat solution! Would require a big cow for 8+ ft reins. Now I'm thinking that I need to make a pair. p.s. Just finished replacing zippers on the boots-from-hell. Tonics tall boots with a curved zipper on the outside of the leg. They were so heavily oiled that barge cement and/or sticky basting tape wouldn't hold the layers together for sewing. Had to manhandle them and broke a couple of needles, but all's well that ends well.

The Stohlman books on leather tools, hand sewing, and case making are good general references. See also books and DVDs at the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal online store.

Those are good looking sheaths! I like the straps and multiple points for attaching to a person, saddle, etc.

Thanks, Jonas. I will check out the logistics. Our President has made it more expensive to order from Europe. The diecast hardware isn't as strong as stainless, and the plating can chip off. Nickel bronze hardware is good quality but less readily available in my experience. Thank you for the tip.

Thanks for your reply. They don't have the stainess snaps. Client decided on the nickel plated diecast spring snaps.

As the title says, I am looking for a stainless snap hook for a 1/2" strap. The picture shows the broken snap hook and a 1" snap of the type I am searching for. I have only found zinc diecast 1/2" snap hooks with the spring metal clip - these are poor quality and break easily. Beiler's has a 5/8" stainless snap hook that might do if the client approves. I have already checked Beiler's Manufacturing, Weaver Leather Supply, Zack White Leather, Pan Handle Leather, Wyoming Leather, Rocky Mountain Leather, Buckle Guy, Abbey England, and Batz Corp. Thanks for any help you can provide.

That's quite a project. Well done! Did you adjust the bobbin case spring tension to cover all those thread sizes? I haven't tried #207 thread in my Cobra Class 29 patcher.

I make halters to measure, but if you can get your hands on a halter that fits then you can adjust your pattern. There's not universal agreement on horse sizes - cob, horse, warmblood, draft etc. I include some measurements that I use in this thread.

Beautiful craftsmanship. I can’t imagine how long it takes to make these reins. Thanks for sharing.

I see the discrepancies when repairing tack made in Asia, which is the majority of manufactured tack. The hardware matches inches but the straps are narrower making them loose on the hardware and promoting wear. For economical repairs (matching the client's expectations for inexpensive tack) I have to fudge the width when splicing a new end on a strap. I always check the setting on my plough gauge with a scrap of leather to ensure I'm getting accurate widths. I realize this is a bit off topic.