Alexis1234

I do a lot of hand stitching. I think the reason the holes aren't pre punched is because they have a tendency of closing back up(so I've read) . I have tried using a machine to punch holes, but have noticed a difference- the stitching isn't slanted like when hand stitching. I would assume it depends on the project, but for certain things, I really like the look of saddle stitching and the precision placement I'm able to get.

I use a single prong lacing chisel to make the holes and then use a screwdriver to fold the prongs over. A tap with a rubber faced mallet finishes it. I should add, I use dividers to mark out the spacing

I will look into the stamps- thank you for the info.

I have looked into that before but was sent to coin engravers,etc. Any recommendations for stamp companies?

Off the top of my head- "beveling crease" and checkering iron" are some of the tools listed.

I have an antique loop die that i want to use with smaller (1/2") keepers on harness. The die I have is too wide... What hand tools do I need to recreate this design by hand? I've searched and searched but all I come up with is out of date terms for tools that I can't find modern equivalents for. What hand tools do I need for the checkering and the raised beveled diamonds? Any help in the right direction is appreciated- Thank you!

I just saw on social media today - tack makers discussing where to get the LV logo "leather/vinyl... they don't seem to care if it's fake as long as it sells their bronc nosebands and tack sets .

Thank you! Yes, all the curves were free cut- I don't have any clicker dies. Patent overlays on hip and shoulder strap, drops are raised. Unfortunately, saddle is not tufted. Its lined and padded. Originally, I had made up a tufted pad panel and planned on lacing it on but I had a heck of a time getting the panel to line up/ sized correctly. Something to work on for the next one. I get my patent from Weaver.

Pretty slick idea- that pipe for a curved knife

I have been using an old Osborn. Originally, I bought a knife from Tandy, but found it was useless. I never felt any pain from this cut, crazy but I didn't!

After reading the replies, my knife is no where near sharp enough! I have stones and stropping compounds, but I struggle with getting the correct angle.

I apologize if this has been covered already- I didn't run across it. How sharp is sharp enough for a round/ head knife? Yesterday, my knife chattered/slipped and I ended up with a fairly serious injury while cutting horribly tanned patent leather... I swear it's because the knife wasn't sharp enough. My husband thinks otherwise. When is it sharp enough and how do you gauge it? I'm still learning. Thanks for any input.

I'm curious enough that I'm going to order a skein... From what I've researched I need "flat filament" silk. I want to know if it makes that much difference with hand stitching ( the look)or if it's all hype. I do intend to do smaller stitching- maybe 12 or 14 spi. I do 9 or 10 stitches per inch with hand sewing now.

Thank you for the replies. I looked at the pintrest board- lots of ideas! What I had in mind was the inner stitching row on winkers, face drops and perhaps saddle tops. I was curious as to what effect the old harness makers were getting with silk thread that was different from linen? From what I've researched it's supposed to be very glossy... I just wonder what that looks like against leather and how it holds up to sunlight?

I hardly ever offer my opinion on this forum. I barely know what the heck I'm doing so I'm in no position to offer advice .Those that have offered advice/critiques- I respect the work they do and have taken it.