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PlanoMike

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Posts posted by PlanoMike

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Im making a purse from a pattern. it's a round purse. I used a 5mm, 2 points Japanese stitching iron to punch the gusset and round front & back for the round purse. The purse measurements are metric, and I matched the pattern exactly. I go around the front & back pieces 5mm from the edge punching the stitching holes. I am very careful to be precise with my punching. I then punch the holes in the gusset( which goes around the entire purse) using the same iron at 5mm from the edge. I come up with exactly the same number of punches for both gusset and front & back pieces. And the punches start and end exactly where they are supposed to. So now I feel confident and start stitching from the center of gusset and front piece. I notice as Im stitching that the holes on the round front piece are gaining distance from the punches on the gusset. They are supposed to be directly across from one another. In fact the holes get several holes apart from one another. thus the stitches are all out of alignment and the project locks like crap. 

    What am I doing wrong that the punch holes don't stay aligned across from on another? I do a lot of hand stitching and am pretty good at it. Ive successfully stitched square bags with large rounded corners with no problems.Im lost. Help Please.

    Thanks, Mike 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/25/2023 at 6:06 PM, Fraulein said:

    I have a class 26 as well. Pretty much what @bladegrinder said, I go real slow when I get close to the corner and pay attention to that last stitch. When I get to about where I think the last stitch will be I stop using the foot pedal completely and turn the wheel by hand till my needle almost touches the leather, then I can raise the foot and manually move the leather so that last stitch lands exactly where I want it to. Then I can turn the wheel to sink the needle and turn the piece, lower the foot again and keep right on sewing.

    I'll add that I didn't have to remove a brake pad or anything on my class 26 to be able to turn the wheel easily.

    Good luck!

    Thanks, Im pretty much copying your technique. Works good and I'm practicing it. My corners are getting better.

    Thank you very much.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/24/2023 at 8:39 PM, AlZilla said:

    Al Bane has a video (which I can't recall exactly) where he slowly overshoots the corner but doesn't sink the needle. He stops and shortens the stitch with the length lever until the needle is where he wants it, then sinks it.  Turn corner, return stitch length and continue sewing. 

    I checked it out. Good solution for a class 4. My Class 26 doesn't have the same reverse.stitch length control, so I have had to work out a solution for myself.

    Thanks for your thoughts and help. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/16/2023 at 12:51 PM, bruce johnson said:

    MIke, so the finest it will stitch is 7 SPI?

    As you can see from TomE, he gets 9 SPI. I talked to a tech at LMC this afternoon. he explained several things. The numbers on the dial a there for your reference, and have no specific meaning to the machine's SPI. As TomE said, you can losen the dial from the screw and move it counter-clockwise and retighten it. Turn the dial toward 1. That will get you more SPI (shorter stitches). You can do the opposite by moving the the loosened dial clockwise, retighten the screw, and turn it toward 0 and get fewer SPI (longer stitches).

    This is why I created my leather strip stitch guide. I have been at the leather business for 6 years, all hand stitching. I had a SailRite LeatherWork for 2 years, but rarely used it. Didn't like the thread choice, was great for fine leather wallets. Because of my increased bag, purse, backpack work, I decided to go with the Class 26. So, I've got a lot to learn and a lot of practice ahead. Now if I can just keep my feet pressing the right pedal.

  11. Posted · Edited by PlanoMike · Report reply

    I just got my 26 this week, and in the process of learning about it. Didn't understand the stitch length dial. so I started playing with it. Using a strip of 8oz veg, I sewed strips at the various setting s on the dial. Here's what I came up with. Hope it helps.

    Mike in Plano, TX

    Cobra Class 26 Stitch Dial

    Stitches Stitch Stitch per Length Dial Inch in mm

    Cobra Class Stitch Dial.pdf

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I like using goat for a variety of items: lining, wallet insides, purse insides, sometimes I’ve used as the primary hide on wallets and card cases, ladies’ clutches. I’ve bought goat from several suppliers, but I think I’ve found the best. The name is CLoys Leather. cloysleather.com. He’s located in El Paso, TX. One of the nicest, easiest to work with suppliers I’ve experienced. The goat is top quality, no marks or blemishes, very uniform color across the hide. He carries many colors. Turns your order the same day, very reasonable on price and shipping costs. I strongly recommend his products. 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    On 10/16/2022 at 9:41 PM, kgg said:

    Keep in mind that no one machine will do everything. The Leatherwork (~$1400 usd) which is a flatbed that is basically a Sailrite LS-1 straight stitch machine put into a short table with a nice 12 coil servo motor. That machine can handle up to a #20 needle so the max size of thread for that size of needle is V92. These portable sewing machines were originally designed as a on board sail cloth repair machine. It probably can sew up to a max thickness of 1/4" of material. They do have there place as all machines do but it would not be my first choice.

    Since you are planning on sewing bag type items a cylinder arm machine would I think be a better choice in the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 class with a flatbed attachment. There are many clones in this class so you will have lots to choose from either in the new or used market.

    Buy Once, Cry Once

    Plano Mike

    kgg

     

    kgg

    I didn't listen to your advice as closely as I should, especially since I was buying my first machine. The SailRite is a very good sewing machine for horizontal FLAT sewing. For gussets and vertical odd shapes, it just doesn't work. I sold the Leatherwork, and have a Cobra Class 26 on order with Springfield Leather. Thank you for being patient with us newbies and staying the course. I did though research this time based on the starting with what I've enjoyed making over the last 6 years, what I want to make, and input from you experienced makers.

    Bought Once, Cried Once

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I’ve had the LW a little over a year now. Works good, but I get tired of adjusting the tension every new project.
    Also, had to re-adjust the tension on the two drive belts. What a mess. I had to take the work table top off the stand so that I could get to the idler pulley adjustment, and to get to the motor mount bolt. Not an easy job.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I've checked The Thread Exchange and Superior Thread for #69, #92 and #138 Nylon and Polyester Threads. They don't have the colors I need. Can someone suggest other thread suppliers that would have a bigger color selection?

    Thank you,

    Mike

  22. Posted · Edited by PlanoMike
    Wasn’t finished     · Report reply

    I am several weeks into my new Sailrite Leatherwork machine. I am glad I got it. I’ve also received the left and right zipper feet which I immediately file the saw teeth on the bottoms low and round. Tested on some dark brown 6oz oil tan. Left very light marks that were easily rubbed out. Also, I have very little pressure set on the presser feet. 
    I’m using the left only foot with gives me the 3mm space to the right edge of the leather.  This is the typical stitch spacing for wallers. I can put an edge guide tight up where I want it. 
    I take off the left foot and use the right foot when I’m stitching guessets. Let’s me get get up very close. 
    Additional good news…I have been successfully using #138 bonded nylon tread in both the top and bottom together. On western goods, I like the thicker thread. 
    My only complaint is setting the stitch length. I like to use several different lengths depending on the project. I have some marks on the controller, but I still have to play around with it to get it where I want.  
    I highly recommend this machine if you on a budget. If money is no object, get the Cobra Class 26.

  23. Posted · Edited by PlanoMike
    And the price was very reasonable at $1,299.     · Report reply

    I received my machine, Sailrite Leatherworker w/ Workhorse servo and speed reducer, last Monday. Got it together in three hours and started practicing. The first thing I did was get a stitch length forward and backward set. I set it for 6 SPI which fits the vast majority of my work. After practicing for a few hours and getting use to its operation, I started sewing a satchel bag. The slow speed is real slow, easy to move along the edges sewing the gussets. Flat sewing is a dream, but the gussets weren’t as tough as I thought.

    This is my first machine, and is perfect for me. A Semi-pro hobbyist. Easy to set-up, easy to use and maintain. Glad I bought it.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Mr. KGG,

    I have been hand stitching my products for years, but i'm brand new to sewing machines. So over the course of time, i'll be asking a lot of stupid questions. First question, why would folks want to buy pre-wound bobbins? isn't it just as easy to fill your own off your machine?

    thank you

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