PlanoMike

fredk Thank you. You are absolutely correct. I checked a couple other round bags that worked, but were assembled and stitched differently than the one I'm currently working on.

I failed to mention at the start im making a round purse, 20cm diameter(front and back pieces), and 7cm wide gusset.

Im making a purse from a pattern. it's a round purse. I used a 5mm, 2 points Japanese stitching iron to punch the gusset and round front & back for the round purse. The purse measurements are metric, and I matched the pattern exactly. I go around the front & back pieces 5mm from the edge punching the stitching holes. I am very careful to be precise with my punching. I then punch the holes in the gusset( which goes around the entire purse) using the same iron at 5mm from the edge. I come up with exactly the same number of punches for both gusset and front & back pieces. And the punches start and end exactly where they are supposed to. So now I feel confident and start stitching from the center of gusset and front piece. I notice as Im stitching that the holes on the round front piece are gaining distance from the punches on the gusset. They are supposed to be directly across from one another. In fact the holes get several holes apart from one another. thus the stitches are all out of alignment and the project locks like crap. What am I doing wrong that the punch holes don't stay aligned across from on another? I do a lot of hand stitching and am pretty good at it. Ive successfully stitched square bags with large rounded corners with no problems.Im lost. Help Please. Thanks, Mike

yes, I said that all wrong. there are a couple project I have in mind right now that id like to use edge binding.

Does anyone know of a seam binding foot for a class 26 sewing machine? I've done a pretty good search of the regular places with no luck. Thank you, Mike

Thanks, Im pretty much copying your technique. Works good and I'm practicing it. My corners are getting better. Thank you very much.

I checked it out. Good solution for a class 4. My Class 26 doesn't have the same reverse.stitch length control, so I have had to work out a solution for myself. Thanks for your thoughts and help.

I'm new to using a sewing machine. I have a Class 26 from LMC. When sewing along and come near to the corner, my next stitch will either be short of the corner, or past it. I haven't figured out how to put the needle in the corner when I come to a turn. Can anyone give me any help, hints, suggestions? Help me , Thank you so much, Mike Caldwell

As you can see from TomE, he gets 9 SPI. I talked to a tech at LMC this afternoon. he explained several things. The numbers on the dial a there for your reference, and have no specific meaning to the machine's SPI. As TomE said, you can losen the dial from the screw and move it counter-clockwise and retighten it. Turn the dial toward 1. That will get you more SPI (shorter stitches). You can do the opposite by moving the the loosened dial clockwise, retighten the screw, and turn it toward 0 and get fewer SPI (longer stitches). This is why I created my leather strip stitch guide. I have been at the leather business for 6 years, all hand stitching. I had a SailRite LeatherWork for 2 years, but rarely used it. Didn't like the thread choice, was great for fine leather wallets. Because of my increased bag, purse, backpack work, I decided to go with the Class 26. So, I've got a lot to learn and a lot of practice ahead. Now if I can just keep my feet pressing the right pedal.

I'll try what TomE did. Thanks for the replies. When I did my test, I used 207 thread with a 22 needle. I didn't think needle and thread would make a difference on stitch length. On the other hand, I won't ever use more than 5 or 6 spi.

I just got my 26 this week, and in the process of learning about it. Didn't understand the stitch length dial. so I started playing with it. Using a strip of 8oz veg, I sewed strips at the various setting s on the dial. Here's what I came up with. Hope it helps. Mike in Plano, TX Cobra Class 26 Stitch Dial Stitches Stitch Stitch per Length Dial Inch in mm Cobra Class Stitch Dial.pdf

I like using goat for a variety of items: lining, wallet insides, purse insides, sometimes I’ve used as the primary hide on wallets and card cases, ladies’ clutches. I’ve bought goat from several suppliers, but I think I’ve found the best. The name is CLoys Leather. cloysleather.com. He’s located in El Paso, TX. One of the nicest, easiest to work with suppliers I’ve experienced. The goat is top quality, no marks or blemishes, very uniform color across the hide. He carries many colors. Turns your order the same day, very reasonable on price and shipping costs. I strongly recommend his products.

I’ve seen lots of questions on thread and needle sizes, especially from newbies. Figuring thread sizes was especially difficult for me starting out, so I put together this list. I look at thread size carefully when I’m starting a new project, so I still use this chart. Maybe it will help others Thread:Needle Cross Reference.pdf

I had looked up the meaning, but didn’t believe it. I’m not sure how this applies to leather work. I truly enjoy leather work, but I don’t get prurient pleasure from it.

I see ASMR with many leather posts on YouTube. What does it mean? thank you

This is something kkg might respond.

kgg I didn't listen to your advice as closely as I should, especially since I was buying my first machine. The SailRite is a very good sewing machine for horizontal FLAT sewing. For gussets and vertical odd shapes, it just doesn't work. I sold the Leatherwork, and have a Cobra Class 26 on order with Springfield Leather. Thank you for being patient with us newbies and staying the course. I did though research this time based on the starting with what I've enjoyed making over the last 6 years, what I want to make, and input from you experienced makers. Bought Once, Cried Once

I’ve had the LW a little over a year now. Works good, but I get tired of adjusting the tension every new project. Also, had to re-adjust the tension on the two drive belts. What a mess. I had to take the work table top off the stand so that I could get to the idler pulley adjustment, and to get to the motor mount bolt. Not an easy job.

Check with Tannery Row. They sell a water based adhesive that comes in three different controls. I use Aquilim, but have thought about Tannery's third style. it is advertised a an adhesive that requires no stitching, a permanent adhesive on its own.

I've checked The Thread Exchange and Superior Thread for #69, #92 and #138 Nylon and Polyester Threads. They don't have the colors I need. Can someone suggest other thread suppliers that would have a bigger color selection? Thank you, Mike

thanks for the tip. I would have never guessed that.

I am several weeks into my new Sailrite Leatherwork machine. I am glad I got it. I’ve also received the left and right zipper feet which I immediately file the saw teeth on the bottoms low and round. Tested on some dark brown 6oz oil tan. Left very light marks that were easily rubbed out. Also, I have very little pressure set on the presser feet. I’m using the left only foot with gives me the 3mm space to the right edge of the leather. This is the typical stitch spacing for wallers. I can put an edge guide tight up where I want it. I take off the left foot and use the right foot when I’m stitching guessets. Let’s me get get up very close. Additional good news…I have been successfully using #138 bonded nylon tread in both the top and bottom together. On western goods, I like the thicker thread. My only complaint is setting the stitch length. I like to use several different lengths depending on the project. I have some marks on the controller, but I still have to play around with it to get it where I want. I highly recommend this machine if you on a budget. If money is no object, get the Cobra Class 26.

I received my machine, Sailrite Leatherworker w/ Workhorse servo and speed reducer, last Monday. Got it together in three hours and started practicing. The first thing I did was get a stitch length forward and backward set. I set it for 6 SPI which fits the vast majority of my work. After practicing for a few hours and getting use to its operation, I started sewing a satchel bag. The slow speed is real slow, easy to move along the edges sewing the gussets. Flat sewing is a dream, but the gussets weren’t as tough as I thought. This is my first machine, and is perfect for me. A Semi-pro hobbyist. Easy to set-up, easy to use and maintain. Glad I bought it.

Thank you. Im taking in all suggestions.

Mr. KGG, I have been hand stitching my products for years, but i'm brand new to sewing machines. So over the course of time, i'll be asking a lot of stupid questions. First question, why would folks want to buy pre-wound bobbins? isn't it just as easy to fill your own off your machine? thank you