CdK

Yes, many things going on at the same time. I remember my learning curve and finally getting the balance of needle, thread and settings right was very satisfactory. This all takes time to build experience and confidence, like when learning the guitar, don't rush and try to force things.

Yes, that is probably a tapered pin. Be sure to drive it out from the small end. I would measure the ends with a vernier to determine the small end. Support the shaft end well and drive it out with a drift punch. As others pointed out, proceed with caution as not done correctly could end poorly.

Looking a photo 1 again I see what appears to be a pin on the left, notice the circular dissimilar coloration on the shaft.

@friquant In the first picture there appears to be screw slots inside the holes, maybe screws in there?

@KloverI found the thread where this was discussed. This link should take you to the page where the hammers are shown:

@Rick JorgensonThat is a nice rig, well done!

Those are quite heavy duty, nice work!

@RockyAussie << @Klovermade some tests and posted images/video where he tested the tension for both the top and bottom thread when his machine was in balance. I seem to recall that the bottom was 1lb and the top 3lb. That being said, the thread path plays an important role as well. My preference, based on my experience, is to make sure that the top thread is wound 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times around the tensioner on the left side of the machine. Thread slippage needs to be minimal here, wheel needs to rotate, or I get inconsistent stitch tension. There is no standard or correct one side fits all on these machines. Thread types and thickness change how you set up as well. Good luck with your new machine.

@Cumberland Highpower I had not yet considered the table surface yet but what you mention makes sense. I will probably use HDPE or such as I have that on hand and should be quite suitable I think. I'm thinking that the table top be circular so I can get into openings etc like when I do when doing tote bags with circular cut-outs for the handle. Similar to what some spindle sanders are but without oscillation and variable speed control using a foot pedal.

@Cumberland HighpowerDid not know about the Galli Burnishing wheels and did a search and came across this beast: https://youtu.be/-hXaNNV9wGo?si=_7ke0kzdVgUQQ9iv Fascinating what machines are out there. I'm actually considering making/building a horizontal burnisher for doing the edges on larger items such as bags and briefcases. I saw such machines being used in some of the videos that I saw on utube and my interest was piqued. I have 2x 750W servo motors that came off sewing machines on hand and considering using 1 of these as I could control the speed with a pedal. Thoughts? @LomaeArts I like your thought process, many ways to accomplish what you are going for.

Exactly, do what method is appropriate for the task at hand and do it correctly else it is a failure.

Same difference, I remember my late maternal grandfather, a blacksmith, rant on about the inferior electrical arc welding replacing hot rivets in rail car manufacture and that they were "weak". I dared point out to him that the liberty ships were welded together, once... That being said, I have seen many ugly leather pieces with large holes punched and overly thick and garishly colored threads used. These makers also tend to be vocal about how inferior machine stitching is. YMMV

Use your laser and mark the flesh side of the leather, easy peasy, no need for a template.

I use Lightburn extensively, not only to drive my lasers but as my premier pattern design tool. I don't use or recommend any Adobe tools. For CNC milling and 3D printing Fusion is my product of choice.

A basic laser can be relatively inexpensive but it is but a subset of what is required, IMHO. I use different lasers for various tasks in my workshop but I rarely burn images or text directly into leather for decoration as it degrades it too much for the items I make. YMMV. That being said, I do use a large diode laser extensively to cut card stock templates/jigs and marking the flesh side of leather for cutting etc. Marking the leather this way saves a lot of time as I don't need to scribe or trace the patterns onto the leather. The charring of laser cut leather can be a pita and cleaning it up takes longer than just using a knife or such. I strongly recommend having your laser in an enclosure to allow good fume extraction and prevent possible eye damage from laser light.