chisel

Sorry, my mistake. I had the diameter correct but the B-9117-563-000 bobbin thickness is 11.7...I need to buy a digital caliper or new reading glasses. I have black bobbins from 2015 and new chrome ones purchased earlier this year and there are no dimensional differences between them.

The Juki LU-563 bobbins I have measure 27.9 x 10.9. Part number B-9117-563-000 U bobbins I have for a Consew 255 or 339 e.g. are larger: 28.9 x 12.3

Forgive my ignorance, but what's a bobbin shim?

The Singer is a 211 that has been stretched and uses a135x17 needle. Consew 744 is a much heavier duty machine and will sew practically anything. Vs. the 211, the 744 has a longer needle bar stroke, longer max. stitch length, more clearance under the foot, and larger bobbin. 744 uses a 7x3 needle.

That's a high speed straight stitch machine, not a walking foot.

Machine is no longer available.

That tab goes in the notch on the underside of the needle plate. After you get that fixed, let us know how it sews.

Seiko STH-8BLD-3, made in Japan and identical to the Consew 206RB-5. Features triple feed, 10mm max. stitch length, knee lift, bobbin winder, l.e.d. light and more. The motor is a brushless servo with a needle positioner, which has a 50mm pulley for increased torque and lower minimum speed. Includes all original accessories, belt guard, and needles. Machine, motor and table are new, the metal stand has a couple of small paint dings from moving. Depending on location, delivery and setup may be possible. Located in Henderson, KY 42420

Dave9111, I use a Hoyer type lift for lifting heads that are too heavy for me to handle out of tables, but it doesn't take much of a gap in a concrete floor to stop the Hoyer if it's moving slowly. If modified with much larger and wider wheels, I believe the type of lift in the picture would be better suited for what you want to do. The hook hinges at the top, and hooks under the top cross member of a K-leg as long as the leg is close to the edge of the table. Place the hook in position, crank up and you're on your way. It will work on longer tables, but with so much leverage at the other end, it's best to crank up a little and then manually lift the other end. Let me know if you want any measurements or other info.

I watched it. My apologies.

Top of hand wheel should be turning toward you.

When buying new, I would buy from a local dealer in case you need support after the purchase. You will be on your own with Goldstar. In Phoenix and a better price than what you quoted: https://raichert.com/product/juki-dnu1541s-shipping-truck-only-call-for-rate-800-422-3153/

Definitely test sewing with the machine before you consider purchasing. If you buy it, remove the machine from the table. Don't even try to transport as it is because it's very top heavy as you said. One slip up and it's game over. As you remove the four bolts holding the machine to the table, support the needle end of the machine. If the machine head is too heavy, remove handwheel. Place machine upright in vehicle and strap to walls or floor. Protect with old blankets and pillows as needed.

If these aren't the videos then hopefully they will help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6CCxv3i4No https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu2OT9MtzMc

Bob, $400 for parts only or parts + labor?