Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About AtomicLeathers

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Interests
    Everything from wallets, bags, holsters, knife sheaths, etc.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Wallets, bags
  • Interested in learning about
    Bags, holsters, edging, ideas
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Looking for patterns

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hey LeatherandHyde, I was forced to buy the class 26 earlier this year,(long story), but from the start I have had nothing but problems with it. First, the walking and presser foots leave deep impressions in the leather was the first one, second is the missing a stitch problem like you have noted. I buy the Tandy brand, 138, and 207. I seemed to notice it does a better stitch with my 138 size but still not 100% perfect. But 207 it is very inconsistent. I use white thread and you can really see it bad. If you find out the problem please let me know. By the way, the tension is off on top all the way out, called leather company and dude told me to cut the springs down 5cm. Still nothing has worked. Im been told to hammer the stitches and leather, was told to use different harder leather, etc. Now I just dont care, but my missing threads is pissing me off now. Im gonna see if tension discs are clogged or maybe buy didnt brand thread. please let me know if you find anything that works
  2. That be it!! Thank you
  3. Hello! I was wondering if anybody knows where I can get this punch shape within the states and not overseas?
  4. Lookin good! How did the bottem get attatched and how did the top get attached? Did you use a template on size and cut out?
  5. I have a 26 as well. I just bought it a few months back and regretted my purchase on my first use. I used thin leather, heavy leather, different brands, temper, finish, etc. So from what I know is its everything thats a problem haaa. The type of leather, brand, temper, finish, etc. I called the leather machine company and they told me to cut down the main spring 5mm because I had no adjustment left to losen the foot. Trust me, I know your anger! A 3k$ machine shouldnt mark it at all but apparently everyone I talk to says, thats just the case with useing any machine, which is crazy. As for adjustment, I was told in the bobbin area, there is lift height settings from 2 screws. I played around with it and didnt seem to help any. Lastly, If you really look at most hand made stuff ( machine) you can see the foot marks. Never payed attention to it but they are there for sure. maybe this video might help. If you find anything out on how to not mark up leather, please please let me know!
  6. Dont get the sinabrocks. I mean sure if you got the money, go ahead. I found on etsy a company called P-mak https://etsy.me/3xXyskC They did make a 5mm but it looks like they only make a 6mm now. I bought the 8 and 2. Im by no means a professional but I have found a few tips when working with bigger spaced irons. I usually pre line up 2-3 holes with the 8 to continue my spacing, then punch. The problem is there is a hole bigger then the tips. So its not exact spacing and you can see it on your stitching. Try lightly pressing the tips of the iron to make a impression in the leather first. do it all the way around. then you dont have to worry about lining up the first couple of prongs and miss out on punching more holes. Second is sometimes I do 2 10oz peices together, and driving the irons through all the way, and up the iron makes a huge hole because they are wider on the back then the little tip. So make sure you punch all the same sides together and not to flip over.
  7. ill try that. but gosh its crazy that it marks it up that bad. I seen others that just stitch and do a real good job the first time. crazy. ok ill see if I can hammer them down
  8. Hey where did you get that photo? In my manual, it looks like it is from 1990 haaa There is a section for the foot adjustment but it dosent have anything about 25mm height in it. I cut 5mm off and it still is marking the leather up. Its at 25mm from the top of the nut to the bottem and the bottom of the top nut. If I release it anymore it comes out. and right now its pressing the leather to much. Do you think the leather is too soft? or maybe the spring is just new stiff and needs to work in?
  9. Seems weird that I have to cut the spring already on a brand new machine? Shouldn’t there be enough adjustment on it straight from the factory. thats why im checking to see if im missing some other adjustment rather then cutting the brand new machine
  10. Yeeeeeeep That is the adjuster I tried moving. It is backed off all the way
  11. How do I reduce the pressure of the foot? There is the threaded rod and jam nut on top, I backed that all the way off, and under that is the spring they told me to cut off 5mm off
  12. Hello sewing machine guru’s! I am having trouble with my brand new Cobra class 26 machine. When I sew with the machine, the pressure foot/walking foot press the leather hard and it makes a trail on the leather. It makes a beautiful stitch but right next to it, there is a presser foot/walking foot impression. I have adjusted the “banana slide” on the back, checked both my feet for any adjustment and there is none. Right now im sewing 2 , 8-9oz pieces of Wickett and craig traditional harness in med brown and it marks it pretty darn good. I called the leather machine company and a guy told me to cut off the spring 5mm. Just doesn't sound right that I need to cut anything, especially since its brand new? Please help if anyone can with any ideas or input. Thank you!!
  13. Hello! Ive been noticing when I do my edging and burnishing it transfers the dye onto what it lays on. I guess maybe my process is the problem? I bevel the edge first and sometimes wet the edge and burnish real quick to get a smooth edge first or just bevel. Then I usually dye the edge with black or brown, then burnish smooth to get a clean edge. After it drys, I sand or burnish with Tokonole to a glassy finish, then let dry for the night. Then i assemble next day or later. But if I do that, say on a wallet or bag and it lays ontop of another piece, it dyes that back piece. How do I stop that? I did a picture of a bag I did and you can see it slightly doing it already. If it gets used a lit it rubs a lot on it and transfers it. Any ideas how to stop that? Ive tryed paint before and its ok. Maybe a wax or a clear coat?
  14. They are really thick and sturdy. Ive tryed those amazon ones and yes they are a pain for sure. I use these almost every build I do. I guess when you have the right tools for the job then price shouldnt matter. Sure a compass work good but then I still had yo free and that compass mark. These you can just place where you want them, then cut around it. Simple. If you watch a few mascon leather build on youtube, he uses them a lot and you can see how you use them.
  • Create New...