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Ben00

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About Ben00

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  • Interests
    leather, acrylic leather, latex leather

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    leather paint
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  1. Ben00
    Yes good question, the ideal outcome was to have embossed leather sewn on top of the sleeves of the sweater cuffs. Since leather seems to be the only material with good weight to it, that can hold a good quality shine to the outside surface. as I have painted the outside with acrylic paint. So I’m hoping to be able to wash the sweater and maintain the shine after a few washes. Did you treat your leather with anything?
  2. Ben00
    Thank you garyak I have purchased the pro resist. good to know I will not use beaver skin. This is a good point klara do you have any alternative suggestions before I start buying more leather materials. It honestly Would save me a pile of time and money.
  3. Ben00
    Thank you rocky, I was hoping to be able to detach the cuffs but every thing I have tried isn’t very stable, like buttons, fasteners, they all don’t hold the leather firmly in place. But thank you i will definetly try doing that, have you done it before? Or with another material? How did it go? bn
  4. Ben00
    You also said you hand skive the outside edges of the norbuck and croc skin specifically to avoid valleys between the leather. As i would like to keep my leather an even thickness on both sides, what would be the minimum amount of thickness you would ever go to, to insure there is no dip between the strips. apologies for all the questions, you just appear to be one of the few guys doing similar work that I want to learn. Thanks again really appreciate it. best BN
  5. Ben00
    Thank you for the feedback, I bought a weller wood burning kit which is 30w and it comes with a few straight tips nothing curved like you have, but I’m wondering if I can get some scrapes I’ve had off of my epi embossed leather, otherwise can I cover over the marks with edge paint? What do you normally do in this situation? Thanks. BN
  6. Ben00
    Hello Rockyaussie, I’ve been using the technique you showed me and just wanted to clarify that you don’t use any wax other than the HooCo stuff and even that is applied after you have painted with edge paint I presume, then sanded and ironed the edges. As you said above do not burnish at all during any stage. i assume you mean I should replace the burnishing with soldering the edge then. BN
  7. Ben00
    Thank you garyak, I don’t have an airbrush to apply the resist, is it it possible to apply any resist to leather without an airbrush or will it just end up looking messy? Thanks bn
  8. Ben00
    Thank you all, I will try the shoe goo, as well as the beaver leather. Garyak are you referring to pro resist sold by Fiebings?? I haven’t heard much about it. I will try thank you.
  9. Ben00
    Hi Bruce, you say there is a difference between slicking an edge and burnishing I’m a bit new to this, but anywhere online it says slicking and burnishing are the same. Is slicking more the process of compressing the fibers manually and burnishing is doing it by machine I ask as I’m considering buying a Dremel tool, or possibly a soldering iron. I’ve been told since I’m looking to edge very thin leather like exotic reptile skin, and i will be colouring my edges then I should use the soldering iron. But if burnishing is the best way to go possibly that sounds tempting lmk thanks. ben N
  10. Ben00
    Hey David, can u drop the name of the polyethurane that you use as a reist? Also just confirming that your saying that this shoe finishing product is durable through essentially any environment? (Water, extreme heat, extreme cold, frequent bending, no cracking of paint?) do you know if it is more durable than a product such as neat-lac? thanks Ben N
  11. Ben00
    Thank you Leatherlegion, but no, Tandy leathers newest version of neat unfortunately does not provide the same results as it’s predecessor. thank you though regards BN
  12. Ben00
    Update: I just found this online, which is available, however, I don’t know if it is as good as near lac, I only just found it now. It also can’t be shipped internationally. lmk if anyone has tried it. Regards BN
  13. Ben00
    Thanks, I’m thinking of going with wyosheen, was just curious if it differs from the original nest-lac in anyway, does anyone know what the difference is? lmk ben N
  14. Ben00
    Hello, for anyone with knowledge on finishes and where to find them, I’m looking for neat lac or clear lac. I have called Tandy and they do not supply, neither does spring field leather. I’m woundering if I have to order wyosheen but apparently some people don’t recommend using it. There must be a neat lac supplier still selling if anyone has any updates thank you much appreciated. ben N
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  16. Ben00
    regarding the chemical you use to finish your edges just a bit more if needed, what did you say it was called? and it makes your edges an extra bit smoother after applying edge coat and soldering with your iron correct? - Ben
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