SUP

These work for me. I had to make them with very thin leather though. Else bending the pinkie as one stitches can cause discomfort. I keep it in position with Velcro. Very little stitching required. The pattern, if you plan to purchase, is $3.75 at this point, on Etsy. \https://www.etsy.com/listing/177991649/pattern-leather-stitching-glovelettes?ls=s&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=leather+gloves+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-18&sr_prefetch=1&pf_from=search&pro=1&sts=1&dd=1&content_source=26ef2132-bc4e-4635-9661-a74388428a26%3ALT6f7c3042b01201a47c9bd6f7e052a3bda7b44709&organic_search_click=1&logging_key=26ef2132-bc4e-4635-9661-a74388428a26%3ALT6f7c3042b01201a47c9bd6f7e052a3bda7b44709

The edge glider that is available on Etsy works on thin leather. it is expensive though. I got a prototype, which was less expensive.

I use the same. I got the sawdust from Home Depot - several kgs of it and they wanted to give me a lot more!

Ditto!

Aussie's is mainly petroleum jelly. It could make the flesh side sticky.

Neatsfoot oil before the vinegaroon gives a matte deep black color. It can be used after as well and sometimes turns grey vinegaroon dyed leather black. . If the leather goes grey, it is either because there is insufficient iron acetate or because more tannins are needed. This is what I do. In case of the former, add some more steel wool to the vinegaroon and keep aside a day or two and try again or make a fresh batch of vinegaroon. If the latter, dip in strong black tea for a few minutes and rinse well to get rid of all the loose tea and then try with vinegaroon. In all cases, I rinse the dyed leather well after the vinegaroon and then allow it to dry. The neatsfoot oil first, prevents it from going stiff. The water rinse removes extra vinegaroon which can leave a vinegary smell. The water also balances the pH. All my Vinegaroon dyed pieces are a deep black and not dry or stiff.

I have discovered that the conditioner from Chemical Guys and Resolene works. I apply the conditioner, including under the scale areas. I allow it to dry for 4-5 hours. Then I apply a layer of Resolene in the same way and allow it to dry for a day. A thin layer of Resolene though. The result is a leather that glows softly and is less vulnerable to damage. Hope this information helps anyone else who is working on Pirarucu. If anyone else has better ideas, do share.

Search for 'casing solution'. on this site. You will find many recipes as well as guidance on how best to use them to get the best results.

The best possible reason to get a tattoo. 🙂

Yes. I always learn some new technique with his designs. His videos are excellent.

That is pretty. I like the details like the difference in the shape of the edges in the area of the cabochon.

True and it is a good thing that you mentioned it. Many people do have it lying around and might think of using it on leather. It is a good idea to clarify its effects, as @dikman did. if anyone reads about it here, they will know the issues they might face.

I do not eve have linseed oil at home. Ever since I heard that rags used to apply it can ignite spontaneously if stored carelessly, I prefer to avoid it. The water based, non-darkening conditioners, yes. In a few months time, when I have the time I might possibly do that. I use them anyway, so might as well check their efficacy. Again, if I am able to do so.

😄 There is always more. I have not done anything about the water based conditioners that do not darken leathers.

Thank you @dikman. I'm happy to know that the experiment has helped.