Kevinjohnson

I beleive your machine runs the same needle system as my Adler 205-400. This being said; 138 thread, 160 needle 207 thread, 180 needle 277 top thread & 207 bottom thread, 200 needle 277 thread, 200 needle 346 top thread & 277 bottom thread, 230 needle I prefer bonded nylon but occasionally use bonded poly when I know that the item will be put through adverse conditions. Hope this helps, KJ

Wolfgang, I too would recommend Bob Douglas awl blades. They are as sharp as anything you can find right out of the box. Buy a scant and a reg. to see which you like the best. I would also recommend one of Bob's awl hafts. The handles are made of cocobola and have a longer than normal bit chuck that you can get extremely tight. You also probably need a stitch wheel (6 or 7 spi.) and you might as well buy a good one of those from Bob. Just like everything that comes from Bob Douglas, it may cost a little more but you only have to buy it once. *Bob's awl blades are extremely sharp but have a tendency to be brittle. If you flex the blade very much, you run the risk of breaking them. Stab your holes straight in and pull your awl straight out.

I refuse to apologize

What's the best source for linen thread? Also, refresh me on the cord to #'s conversion, ie. 6 cord=277 and so on. Most of the linen thread is prewaxed? Lastly, I asume that an Adler 205-400 would handle linen thread? Thanks KJ

Somewhere in the range of 16 to 20oz. would probably suit you better. 20oz. is heavy enough to hit a geometric stamp and leave a good impression but not to heavy to bevel w/. 16oz. or lighter have always seemed to light for me to run a moderate size basket stamp or border stamp, but better to bevel light leather. Personal preferance.

Ryano, You've got more sewing machines than a sweat shop in mainland China making Barbee clothes. How many is that now?

Lime you say? Reck'n ole Ings would mind if I transformed her skull into a beer skooner? Nothing more refreshing than drinking a ice cold Corona w/ a slice of tart lime out of her empty, salt fizzing skull.

Ingrid would make a sweet lampshade. I'd say that her leg would make a nice lampstand, however, I'd wager to say that it's been many moons since she's shaved them. Definitely out on hairy lamps and toe jam.

TwinOaks, You get my vote for "Response of the Year!" Did someone say BBQ? DEEEEEELICIOUS

Eat out alot Harvey, bet you do. Bet ya have some roast beef and then ya go tool some leather, stamp some briefcases.

Last week I bought a new peice a of 3/4'' x 4' x 10' butcher bourd material. It's the same material that goes in packing plants and probably the same stuff some of the others are talking about. This specific material came from a company called Motion Industries, which I believe, is a nation wide company serviceing the packing plant industry. I paid about $280 for the sheet. I would advise against some of the thinner plastic material. I've used a 1/4'' sheet a plastic, pebble grained material for the last three years and have not been satisfied w/ it. For one, it's fairly light and needed to be screwed down to the surface to keep from shifting. After screwing it down, the material had a tendency to expand and contract w/ the temperature leaving waves and ripples that additional fasteners would'nt remedy. The pebble grain also had a tendency to scuff the grain side of wet or cased skirting. I ended up taking a belt sander to the slight pebble finish. I think this cutting material cost $80 or $100 three years ago. As far as the table itself, bigger the better. Mine is made from doubled 2x4's for legs, 2x8's for cross braces, and 7/8'' plywood sheeting for the top and bottom level. I use the bottom level for leather storage. The table is 4'x8' and slightly taller than most. I like to be able to cut without having to bend over to far to see what I'm doing. Because the table is very heavy, I have casters on it which makes it handy to move and sweep under. If I could have done it over again I would have bought the more expensive material to begin with. Finally, like someone else said, position the table where you can access it on all four sides. KJ

Wow, you just crossed the line! I'm not sure what you're implying. I was just wanting to film an instructional leather tooling video w/ a new Ellis Barnes tool and a 64oz. maul. You then start talking about hitting a box stamp a 100 times with a heavy maul? I hope you know that if you're having to hit the box stamp a 100 times to get a good impression, the leather is too dry. Try adding more moisture. Remember, its not the size of the maul that matters, its the accuaracy in which you hit the tool.

You'all don't start stamping yet. The next flight out of Amarillo to SoCal is not for an hour. Wondering if I could bring my Bob Beard mallet for Anne to try. I'll bring the 64oz. model.

Yessir, Harvey, guess things are looking up! I was wondering if I could maybe bring a video camera and tape Anne playing w/ your new tool (Ellis Barnes stamp). I bet we could put it on YouTube similar to the way that Keith Valley does. You know, a tutorial, educational.

Great work! I would love to see a close up picture of your beautiful tooling.

Hey Bruce and Greg, has either of you used the maul that Bob, just came from a Phish concert, Beard use to make. They are the only ones I used for the last 8 or 10 yrs. and would not trade them for anything or maybe a dime bag which I could trade for more mauls. Greg, not sure, but I think I saw one of those double headed mauls in a magazine one time? It was probably in Shop Talk or The Leather Crafters J.

Your probably right Troy. I was just thinking that because the berries hadn't been getting much work lately, I might trade one off. I've decided to renig on the offer. Thanks for setting me straight. Go'n to pull out my stitching horse and wax up some thread.

This question is for Troy and Greg, both having a sense of humor. Would a left nut be to much to give for a Cyclone? I've found one but think that the left huevo and some boot might not quite be enough.

Glock model 23 .40 caliber? Maybe a short barrel shot gun for home defense. That's the same advice a respected customer gave me.

It's nice to seem people chime in and give their side of the story. I do not know Steve personally but have heard from respected people in the bus. (V.Weaver) that he's a good guy. Does this shed more light on Mr. Jerry? I would definetely like to hear his side.

Can't beat it for the money. Keep in mind that the are tool steel and not stainless. For what the stamps cost, you won't feel as bad grinding or changing certain stamps to fit your style. I bought a set from Ellis last year.

Wonder why Steve left? I once recieved a flyer from Artisan advertising new machinery. On this flyer was a list of all the people that were using their machines. After scanning through the names, I came across my friends name. A respected saddle maker. He not only had never owned an Artisan, but refused to buy anything from Jerry. This friend has had an Adler as long as I've known him. This all made me wonder how many other names on the list were bogus. I suppose it could have been a honest mistake. For those thinking that your machines are being devalued, be prepared, it will only get worse. The more of these knock-offs(not clones, clones are exact replicas in QUALITY and function) flood the market, the less yours will be worth. I've bought three machines from Vernon Weaver over the last 10 yrs. and the new Adlers have stayed about the same or went up slightly in price. The resale demand is also fairly good, not to mention the ease of describing the make. Adler 205-370 or Campbell or Randall ect. Good luck explaining what Chi Com company made your machine when you go to sell it in ten yrs. Buy the Best! And if you can't afford the best, work a little harder and longer to be able to. I've seen some pretty nice used machines listed and would think that a person would lose less money on one of those established named machines than you would on a knock-off. This whole polarizing subject would probably make for good discussion in the future if it has not already been covered. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this entire subject. Just my opinion, Kevin Johnson

Not to change the subject, but I would like to see a better picture of GA's drawdown horse/vise. I've seen a few diff. styles and was wondering how yours worked. Thanks KJ

Scott, I'm wondering how the shaft is fastened inside of the burnisher? Is a special kind of epoxy or glue used? Would the same fastening process work for securing loose bits in old leather handtools? Looks like you do a neat job. Thanks KJ

Weaver, Walsal, even a lot of the smaller retailers would more than likely carry various sizes.