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Hi there, I am new to the forum and looking for some expert advice! I am currently working on a couple of little veg tan cases and would like to experiment with dyeing them pastel colours like pinks, blues, greens etc. I have seen this done and know it is possible but not sure where to source the dye (I am in the UK). Would rather not have to mix colours Any help greatly appreciated!

Hi all! I've just received 3 natural veg tan kangaroo hides (for the first time!) and I plan to cut the lace from it and use it for braiding. The question is, what would be the best way to go about dyeing/coloring the lace? So far I haven't found anything posted that would be specifically related to this, and I apologize if I have missed it and might be duplicating some other thread. I don't like the idea of coloring the hide first and then cutting the lace. I wan't to have the option of different colors from one hide. I also wonder if the color would actually penetrate deep enough. If not, the edge/bevels might remain "natural". So far (using other types of leather to learn the basics) I've cut it with the lace cutter. Then I stretched it and tied it's beginning to a cable (like a clothes line which is streched under the ceiling of my work room) and then used a piece of wool or sponge soaked in color which I wrapped around the start of the lace, and just rubbed it / dragged it through to the end by pulling on the dyed part. If it was too long and might touch the floor, I simply tossed the colored part over the same cable. After the dye was dry/set, I applied the finish (Satin sheene) in the same manner. After that I split and bevelled it. In this particular case do not plan to split it (before or afterwards), as the hides already seem to have been thinned down to an even thickness. I wonder how the rest of you do it? Is there a simpler or more effective way? It is just too expensive not to ask and see what the best practices might be. I am also wondering, if It could be done by simply dragging the lace through a cup filled with color. I could hold the string down at the bottom with a stick of some sort, and perhaps have some sponge (in a function of a wiper) on the exit part of the cup (so that I don't waste too much color and too prevent uneven blotches after it dries). I believe that stretching should be done with saddle soap (I haven't done it with other types of skins, but I think I should do it with kangaroo). And I also believe that stretching should be done before coloring, or the color might end up being uneven (lighter in parts where it stretches more). Would saddle soap affect the dyeing? Can I stretch without it and achieve the same result? Thank you for all your thoughts!

Hi All, Quick question about the process of dyeing and finishing when stitching a project by hand. I am working on my first sheath and will also be hand stitching for the first time. In general, should I start stitching with the leather already dyed and finished? Should I be stitching first and dyeing and finishing later on? Should I wait to finish the piece after dying and sewing it together in order let the acrylic finish protect the thread and holes from the awl? I'm not sure what the proper method should be for this and any guidance would be most appreciated.

Hi, I have tried to master the techniques of the dyeing and paint job in the photo attached. I believe that the green-tooling coloring is made by first applying a light layer of green dye in the tooling and then more green to the raised areas by a "dry-brush"-technique. I can get it to work, but I am not able to get the light green color somehow? The gold paint on the border is troubling me. I tooled it and then I blocked the raised areas with resolene (5 coats!). The gold paint stayed in the impressions after I wiped it with a clean cloth, but unfortunately some gold "glimmer" remains in the raised areas. I tried with both cheap and expensive gold paint, and I tried with a dry and a wet cloth. What am I doing wrong? One thing that I am totally at a loss, is the green "marvel"-like effect. Do anyone know how that is made?

Hi all! Second post here. I recently ordered a 6-7oz tooling shoulder from Tandy Leather Factory. The quality is fine, not amazing, but fine for what I'm doing with it. However, I wanted to see how some black dye would look on it so I cut some scrap off of it and tried to dye it (Gloves, wool dauber) and I found that the dye mostly just pooled on the surface of the grain and barely absorbed in. I could get it fairly well in after MANY coats, but I'm wondering why this is happening? It DOES look quite smooth, but is that it? I tried it out with an old round I had and the scrap side by side and the round absorbed the dye straight away but the newer shoulder just had dye sitting on top... Any advice? Will I need to sand it down or something? Concerned, R.

I would like to get an airbrush, but I don't know a lot (or, well, anything) about airbrushing and I don't want to buy something that won't end up suiting my needs. Is it better to buy an all in one 'airbrush kit' complete with compressor, or is it better to buy things separate? What I'd like to do with it is apply all-over dyes and finishes as well as experiment with different techniques, like doing a gradient colour (example fading from red to black) - what kind of brushes do I need? Is it possible to get a decent machine (including compressor) for around $100-150, max $200? This is one that I'm possibly looking at - http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-3-5-Gravity-Dual-Action-AIRBRUSH-KIT-Tank-Air-Compressor-Hobby-Cake-Tattoo-/200894367286?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec63cc636 - does anyone have experience with this brand?