Search the Community

I have a question for the holster makers regarding the type of leather being used for lining your holsters. I know opinions are probably going to be varied on the subject but here it is anyway. When you are lining a holster are you using a straight veg-tan tooling leather of a lighter weight or are you using other types of leather as well? The issue is more related to the tanning process used for your lining leather. I have read and been told in the past that using anything other than a straight veg-tan has the potential for creating issues for the gun being placed in the holster. Chrome tanned leather can create pitting and discoloration of some metals. When you are buying leather it is fairly straight forward when you buy tooling leather you know it is a veg-tan. If you pick a pigskin for lining you may not be aware of how it was tanned. I know the processes are different for a Latigo leather versus a Harness leather. etc. Second part of the question is also regarding the type as well. A while back I had stopped at Tandy for some emergency supplies and a guy was buying a huge stack of rust colored splits. I asked him what he was making and he told me he was using it for holster lining. While I wouldn't call it suede the splits are not a smooth leather and have a "nap" to them. I have read that this type leather can create issues because of the possibility of some of the leather wearing off and creating "fuzz" which might get into the workings of the gun. So there you go. Can the holster makers out there weigh in on this and maybe educate me and anyone else that might have the same questions. Thanks, Ed in Grapevine, Texas

This is my first leather working project. I bought a holster kit from my local Tandy store. The box lists all the stuff that comes in it but also says I will need leathercraft glue (no problem there) and finish (small problem). I bought some Tan Kote, because, hey it says 'finish' on it. When I get the box open the instructions say "Apply a finish (Super Shene, Satin Shene or Block-Out) on inside of holster to prevent loose leather fibers (crocking) from getting into pistol's mechanism." So, will Tan Kote work for this application? And should I oil the leather before I finish it?

Howdy, I'm a retired geezer who tries to learn new things. Where I live (Temple, TX), there are no classes available within a reasonable travel distance; and I've not found anyone around to be my mentor. I've got a ton of tools given to me by a brother in NC who has been at this for quite some time. I've bought the books and read them, but a lot of what I need to learn doesn't come easily from books. I bought a few pieces of leather hoping to be able to make a holster. I dove right in and cut several pieces. I cut them over-sized hoping to form the leather to the handgun itself (which I put in a plastic zip loc bag to keep dry). Apparently I didn't get the leather sufficiently pliable to form because boning with a deer antler or sharpie only yielded very uncrisp outlines. So, my first question is about how to wet form. I've found posts on casing which I understand to be a different process for a different result, ie, tooling. In trying to overcome my first failure to get a good crisp outline of the gun, I bought a 2' length of 4" PVC pipe and sealed one end with a cap and glue, placed the pieces in it, and poured in boiling water. I have no idea whether this is valid procedure or whether I've damaged the leather, but I used cold water and a long soak on my first attempts. The leather is of 2 types. One is what I'd estimate to be about 7-8 oz (which is probably too thick) and the other is a hard horsehide. Remember, I'm teaching myself from books and the web and using the trial and error method, mostly the latter. For my next attempt, I'm going to try to cut a pattern from poster board and make a pancake style holster from two pieces. I found a thread here yesterday, which I cannot find today and did not tag, that showed how one craftsman does this. The most significant thing I remember about his post was that he had the pistol canted in the holster so that the barrel pointed slightly rearward. I've tried searching for "cant" "canted" etc. but found no hits. I would really appreciate any pointers to tutorials or threads that will help me in this 2 areas. I want to master the molding and wet forming process as a first step, then proceed to pattern making for my specific pistols. If I can get those 2 steps accomplished, I think I can put something together and then post pics for critiques. Thank you for any help you can give me.

So I started doing holsters around Feb of this year these are a few I have done and would like you guys to help me. Just some pointers about my edges and my sewing. I know my lines are alittle off which I purchased a sewing machine and they will be getting better. Ok enough of my rambling any tips will be greatly appriciated. The small 380 was my first and the paddle holster is my latest I did use my new burnishing tool attached to my drill press on it. I still want to get a small belt sander to even out the edges but the new burnisher is amazing ordered it from a guy in Utah off eBay good price and great piece. Thanks Gregg Workingmanleather

Hey everyone!! My name is Casey, and am a new registrant to this site. This is certainly not my first visit to the site, I have been perusing all of your fine work for quite some time now.... just got the oomph to register and start participating/trading ideas from people all around the world!! A little background on my horse/leather history... I apprenticed under a saddle maker, who was from a time when horses were for function, not for fun. I learned all of the basics of structure, strength, ingenuity, and got a daily dose of horse history just about everyday. My teacher is a wonderful man...but he was certainly not about all the "fru-fru"...carving, stamping, etc... So, after I apprenticed with him, and learned all I thought he had to teach me, I started doing a carving seminar here and there, and decided that most of it was pretty basic. After I learned the basic tools for carving, and painting, dying, and stamping; I set out on my own. Headstrong girl, working in an industry that had been male dominant for centuries. It has been trying at times... I have definitely had as many good days as bad, and as many mistakes as successes; and has overall been a very rewarding career thus far. I own 9 horses, 2 ponies, and my resident mule (Bartholomule haha). Most of them are saddle horses, meant for ranching/cutting/riding pens, and even the occasional lazy day when we just go out for a trail ride. I own a halfling and a draft horse (a 2 year old Pertrand filly) that has been stealing my heart the last couple of months. I do own a few carts, and a wagon, and have broke 3 of my horses to pull, and both my ponies as well. We participate in the city parade every year, and boy do we get dolled up to go!! My horses are my life, any time not spent working on my leather i spent learning new things with my horses. They are all such adorable characters, and they never cease to surprise me with the willingness they have to put up with my (sometimes annoying) persistence. My life wouldnt be the same without them, and I like to think that they like me as well ) It is nice to meet you all, and look forward to learning along with you!

I was trying to make the smallest holster I could without compromising safety and retention. This is what I came up with. Works well as IWB, but OWB not so great (maybe a "range only" set up). It was based on my Sigma .40, but would most likely fit other 4 in. semi's pretty well. Your thoughts and comments are encouraged. Thanks.

Hello! My name is Jason, and I build "hybrid" Leather and Kydex IWB concealment holsters and Kydex reinforced gun belts. I started this about a year ago, and have been obsessed ever since. My quality has come a long way since I have expanded my leather knowledge. I get tons of compliments my builds as not many other holsters of this type spend any time on their appearance. I only possess basic leatherworking skills (edging, burnishing, dying) and so far they are all I have needed, although I find myself daydreaming about making a bag or sheath or some other handmade leather product. I have Googled many leather related questions and have always been directed to this forum, so I figured it was time to join. Thanks, and I look forward to picking all of your brains!!

A friend asked me to make him a IWB for his Taurus. This is what I came up with.

When I machine sew tight inside curves, like around the trigger on a moulded holster, the length of the foot interferes with staying tight to the edge. As a result I end up manually placing several stitches, eyeballing the stitch length, and handcranking. Is that the best strategy? any better ideas for tight inside curves with a machine?

NEW Metal Holster / Spring Clips In http://www.bluegunstore.com/?slug=product_info.php&products_id=316 http://www.bluegunstore.com/?slug=product_info.php&products_id=318

Can anyone set me in the right direction by giving me some guidelines specific to this type of holster? I have made plenty of Iwb holsters. I have never attempted to make a closed bottom holster in the likes of this one before. The holster will be for a glock 30 which is very similar to the gun in the pic. Just think very fat and stubby. My problem is I don't know where to begin setting my margins for the muzzle in a holster of this type. The holster design will not be exactly like this but I do want it closed around the muzzle in a similar manner. The back of the holster will also be relatively flat, reminiscent of the modified pancake holster designs. Any help would be appreciated before I begin experimenting. BTW. To give credit where it is due.. I believe the holster pictured is made by Brigade Gun Leather.