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  1. I've searched these forums and lots of other web resources for hand-sewing techniques to little avail... so I'm starting thread in the hopes others here will contribute their expertise and experience. Sometimes you want or need to handsew something and a saddle or whip stitch just isn't what you want. I looked for a long time without much success which leads me to believe this is either: 1) So simple caveman did it. Or 2) We think everyone just knows this stuff!!! Forgive me if this falls into either of the above two categories but when I started I didn't know how to do this. (Disclaimer: I lay no claim to the following's invention or development other than to offer it up here as a useful technique and hope that others will add more.) Bar X Stitch As always, begin at the beginning: Layout Wing divider 1/4" (Over)Stitch Wheel 5 spi Punch (make some holes) Hand Punch Awl Needle and thread #4 harness needles. How much thread? I use the “8x2” method. 8 wraps around front and back of the sewing line (front AND back being the “2”) rather than 16 times the stitch line it’s quicker for me. Use whatever works for you though. First Stitch Both needles through from the back; in this case the flesh side and pull even the thread length. Next we take the right needle (it doesn’t matter which needle you choose but be consistent! Do each complete stitch exactly as each previous stitch.) You can begin with a tie by taking each needle into the opposite threaded hole and back out its original hole from the fleshside if you like but I haven’t here (see last images). Step 1 of Stitch Okay… NOW we take the right needle into the 2nd left diagonal hole and back out its opposite (straight across) right hole. Step 2 of Stitch Next we take the left needle (the needle being used is always the one in the frame) into the diagonal right hole and back out its opposite left hole. This makes the “X” (remember the needle in the frame is the needle we just used) (Backside view) This is the “Bar”. Notice the two threads overlap on this side. Pull thread snug to tight on the flesh side. Next Stitch Repeat steps 1 and 2. What it looks like front and back. I’ve transitioned to simple X stitch to show the differences. “Bars” on one side, “X”s on the other gives us Bar-X. It’s extremely strong especially for curve binding. The key to making this stitch is “don’t let go of that needle once you begin a stitch until the needle is back topside” and always begin your next stitch with the same needle left or right. If you are working around a form or a long run curved needles do help. This example has a “tie” at the top and bottom. To finish and to paraphrase Socrates: “I myself know nothing, just a little, enough to extract discussion from another, who is wise and will receive it fairly.” Please add a stitch to complete this thread… (yeah, I know…. that's punny )
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