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Hi all, I have lung issues and am concerned about working with chrome tanned leather. I know that it can be made so that it is safe to use but I don’t know who offers it for sale that way. I imagine US manufacturing would be the best way to go but how do you know? I know US manufactures would be the safest for the environment too.I don’t even know if there is any chrome tan made in the USA. I am interested in mostly pull up types and some upholstery types. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to purchase and how to identify when buying on line. I don’t typically see where it is made in the add to cart page. I plan on being at the 2022 Sheridan show and will be looking. Thanks in advance, and if this has already been talked about please direct me.

A little information from a reddit post about chrome tanned leathers and chromium salts possibly causing corrosion. Copied the text below in case the post disappears or is otherwise inaccessible. Use at your own risk as there is no chemical information to back up the statement, but was made in good faith by the OP based on his research and conversations with a person that should know. Tom https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/comments/4y005l/solved_can_chrome_tanned_leathers_be_used_for/ Posted byu/B_Geisler Old Testament Mod 4 years ago [SOLVED] Can chrome tanned leathers be used for knife rolls/ sheaths, holsters, etc.? OR Are residual chromium salts/ alum/ iron salts in tanned leather corrosive, and if so, to what metals and to what degree? Tips & Tricks Can chrome tanned leathers be used for knife rolls/ sheaths, holsters, etc.? OR Are residual chromium salts/ alum/ iron salts in tanned leather corrosive, and if so, to what metals and to what degree? This question gets asked here with considerable frequency, especially when it comes to making items that will come in direct contact with metals-- sheaths, knife rolls, holsters, &etc. Barrels and blades, folks. Conventional wisdom says that we don't make these items from chrome tanned leather, supposedly due to the corrosive nature of residual chromium salts in the leather. I'm guilty of this one. I've said it, I've heard old timers say it, and you can't swing a cat without hitting an internet 'expert' that will agree. Chrome tanned leather is bad for barrels and blades. Right? I've asked chemists, leatherworkers, wholesalers, and retailers and the most common answer by far is "Chrome tan is supposed to be bad for barrels and blades, but I've never SEEN it." I've researched this topic extensively and, until now, have yet to find a definitive answer on the topic. I made a few calls and ended up on the phone with Tim Howes. Tim has worked in the leather industry for decades and has, at one time or another, worked for about every major tannery in the business. Tim currently works a technical sales consultant for Tannin Corp, a manufacturer and supplier of oils, waxes, fillers, slip agents and syntans for leather tanning, processing and finishing applications-- these are the guys that sell tanning liquors to essentially everyone in the business and Tim's the one answering the technical questions that make that possible. Per my conversation with Tim, there's a short answer and a long answer to the question. The short answer according to Tim, is no. Chrome tanned leathers from any of the big-name tanneries use such advanced tanning processes that the risk of corrosion or blueing from residual chromium salts is essentially none. The long answer is, no. The reason that so much gear was originally made with veg tan leather was due to animals (especially horses) and humans experiencing adverse skin reactions to the chromium salts-- and not a corrosion issue at all. While the salts ARE corrosive, they don't appear in high enough concentrations in tanned leather to pose any risk except possibly as a skin irritant. He said that he couldn't recall having corrosion issues arise with ferrous metals, brass, nickel plates, etc. and that copper is going to corrode anyway. After a thorough discussion with him about modern tanning processes, it became clear pretty quickly that the likelihood of residual chromium being an issue is very, very low. That said, he did caution that the same doesn't go for leathers tanned in non-commercial settings and tannages from less developed countries that don't follow modern tanning processes. The reason for this is that "you just don't know what these guys are doing, there's some, uh, pretty funky stuff out there. I mean chemically its all backwards, but it works somehow." Any corrosion risk comes from storing the gun/knife/etc. in leather-- the leather absorbs moisture from the surrounding air and creates a damp environment. Damp environments and metals don't mix. That's it. TLDR; For practical purposes, as long as you're buying your leather from a reputable tannery, feel free to make knife rolls/sheaths/holsters from whatever tickles your fancy-- chrome tan, veg tan, oiltan, etc. are all safe for use. EDIT: We're talking about this in the context of typical leather applications from reputable tanneries.

Hi everyone! I'm hoping someone can help me with my dilemma. I have a logo that I want to emboss on my leather bags. I've done a bunch of research and it seems like an arbor press and brass plate are the way to go in veg tanned leather, BUT i use chromium dyed leather! I'm wondering if someone can give me advice here. Will an arbor press work on this soft leather? If so, do I need a 1 ton or 2 ton? And any recommendations on what type of stamp to get- do i need a brass one? or I've seen some people who are making them out of a durable plastic now for cheap... See the attached picture for an example of what I'm looking for! Thanks a bunch everyone! I'm so glad this website exsits, I can't tell ya'll how often I come here for guidance! Erin

Hi All! So I'm relatively new to my Singer 211G165 and honestly purchased it with only a little research on what I needed (walking foot) , but luckily so far it's been "OK" for me. I use it to sew chromium leather handbags. (sometimes up to 3 or 4 layers thick) Sometimes it works well, other times it does not, and I'd love everyones feedback on the best needles, thread, etc to use. Lately I've been having problems with stitches skipping, bobbin thread breaking, or getting tangled in the bobbin case. While trying to investigate, it appears that the little square tab that sticks off of the side of the bobbin case is not where it should be? I am wondering if that little tab is supposed to be underneath the needle plate? It looks like it was at one point because the needle plate is worn down... I will post a picture this evening! Also my hand wheel is very hard to turn... is that normal? In some videos i've seen, it looks very easy to them.. I also just realized that the "Swing away guide" thing exists and I am SUPER excited to get one of those! I have tons of questions, but that will work for now. I really appreciate everyones responses! best, erin