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Scaling back my shop due to shoulder issues. I sadly have to part ways with my Weaver Cub sewing machine. Great for crafters, hobbyists and repair shops. Excellent condition. Portable enough to take to vending shows for on spot repairs. Just got thru looking at the Weaver website and they are backordered! See Weaver website for more description and Youtube videos on operation of machine. This machine will come with 346 thread in black, white and chestnut with 10 pack of matching needles, extra bobbins, roller guide, and extra take up spring. Asking 900.00 cash only Pickup in La Grange, Texas

Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better.... As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots. EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right. When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work. The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.

I bought a pack of hand sewing needle from tandy...I bought them because it was a 200 ct (guessing) and I was at the store. I have already broken 3 at the bottom of the eyelet closest to the needle end on one note book cover. Does anyone know where I can buy quality SS needles (S30V.. joking)? And im using 1.0 mm Ritza,what size should I get? Does anyone have a chart for stitching needle and size thread? Any and every chart will do