Made my own stamp using Sculpy polyform

[chriscraft]

I’ve been using this homemade stamp for a couple years now. I have to say that it’s the best thing I’ve ran across since I started tooling leather. I read about how to make these polyform stamps on another site and would like to share here. 
 

 First, I’m a stickler when it comes to tooling leather by hand and try to use the best tools I can afford. At first, I contemplated over having a stamp made for me since the end product wasn’t going to be made (tooled) by me. I’m not a purist when it comes to calling my stuff “hand made” since I use a sewing machine anyway. But by building my own stamp, this made it feel like it’s coming from my personal skills which lead me to continue on this short journey on making my own stamp mold. 
 

 First,, I hand tooled my original leather mold that will be used to produce my polyformed stamp. Once dried it was used to press on the sculpy polyform clay to transfer my form. I made it 1/4” thick and baked it at 275 degrees in my kitchen oven for 30 minutes. Then removed it from the oven and dipped it in cold water to quickly cool it down. Not sure if my cooling process helps harden it more but I think it helps make it stiffer. 
 

 I used my scroll saw to remove excess material and used an antique book binding press to stamp this onto 5oz. Leather. The stamp impression results are remarkable, looks like it was all done by hand but in only 5 seconds. Amazing 

[chriscraft]

I then stamp in the personal badge numbers and name using a 1/4” aluminum guide  line. 

Edited March 13, 2022 by chriscraft

[chriscraft]

Then it’s just dye, glue, stitch, paint and finish 

[chriscraft]

and that’s how I’ve been building these. I use HO 5oz. and end up with a good looking product that I’m proud of. 
 

 

 

[fredk]

Thats excellent

I also use FIMO/Sculpey, but for the occasional small stamp

We need to edumacate the heathens on here about polymer clay,   

[chuck123wapati]

excellent!

[chriscraft]

2 hours ago, fredk said:

I also use FIMO/Sculpey, but for the occasional small stamp

We need to edumacate the heathens on here about polymer clay,

yes FIMO works the same. I bought what was on sale. You can make the stamps thicker, I made some 1/2” and had to Just bake a small sample first to ensure it came out good. Not enough time in the oven and it will be rubbery. Makes the scroll saw cuts melt and bond back together. 
 I found that baking it a bit longer then quenching it in cool water hardens it a bit. Makes the scroll saw cuts cleaner like you are sawing threw hard plastic and won’t melt/bond back while sawing. 
 

I forgot to mention that I’m pressing the polymer clay flat onto 1/4” plate aluminum. The clay stays attached to my flat plate even when pressing it on my leather form. Even when lifting it away from the leather form, the clay stays flat and attached to my aluminum plate. Then my plate goes in the oven with the polymer clay attached. Once baked, a thin putty knife easily removes it off the aluminum plate. 

[SaintJoy18]

That is a fantastic process! I'd love to see an instruction video on this.

[PastorBob]

Another one to add to the to-do list.  Some impressive results.  Thanks for sharing!  

[chriscraft]

These stamps I made are big, about 3 3/4” by 5 inches and you’ll  need a lot of pressure to make the impression. If you are making small stamps (about 1/2” square) then you don’t need that much force to apply the impression. 
  My antique book binding press is heavy, about 70 pounds and large with a working surface of 15”x20”. I have seen some of the hydraulic press setups ppl use to click patters, those would work. As long as you have two (top and bottom) flat surfaces that can be pressed down evenly. 
 

the key is to keep your tooled leather pattern that will be copied nice and flat. I glued my pattern onto a piece of 6”x6” 1/4” hardboard. I place my  polymer clay that’s attached to the 1/4” aluminum plate on the bottom surface of my press. The tooled leather pattern goes on top the clay and  will be sandwiched down by my tooled pattern making my polymer clay mold.  Then remove the top tooled leather pattern from the clay. Your clay won’t come off the aluminum plate as it’s somehow suctioned there by the soft playable clay. 
 

 This process of making the large  polymer stamp isn’t too difficult and if you make a mistake by the clay coming out uneven, just start over again.