SaintJoy18

Post a couple of pics (before and after) if you have them

Having had boxers, you definitely got the derp down!

That Yggdrasil patch is phenomenal! Excellent work with the animals in the canopy and the face in the trunk.

I can't answer about the stitching but having worn one of these for nearly 25 years I can about the keeper. The larger keeper is to hold the end of the main belt body in place so the thinner "front" belt portion can be buckled.

Nicely done! Simple and clean.

I've been having issues as well since the site certificate problem a few weeks ago. I used to be able to use Firefox but it will no longer allow me access so I have had to switch to using Edge. I don't know if it is a certificate problem or a browser issue.

That's beautiful. I'd try my luck but probably end up with 19...

He's still around. He's in Prescott, AZ this week for the leather convention so he may not be checking his emails.

Lots of firsts with these. First set of chaps, first paint, first hand stitch, first trip to the urgent care (for leatherwork anyway...) They're not perfect but overall I am VERY happy with how they turned out. Based on the Muddy Creek Chink from Bob Klenda with 5.5 oz oil tanned leather from The Leather Guy. Yoke designs are my own. Ring attachments are brass rivet, 26 down each leg)

The only question I have a remote answer to is #3, regarding the FFL. Avoid taking someone's ACTUAL firearm at all costs. Buy yourself a "blue-gun" (red, aluminum mold whatever) of their model and save yourself the hassle of having to deal with transfers and reporting. In addition to not having to worry about federal regulations you will protect yourself in the event that your customer's firearm is damaged in some unforeseen way. Some custom 1911's I've seen can approach $10k and that is NOT a price I want to have to pay for repair/replacement.

From what I could find out (danged ole internet) it wasn't anything to do with liability. I think there were just better, more economical products out there.

The company (Stringer-Brooks) went out of business about 10 years ago. Their designs are still in use by linemen in electrical work and arborists. A couple wildland fire fighters I know have them for their mitigation work. No idea if any of their tools/pads were hand crafted.

Depending on where you are in the world and your relative humidity, this *MAY* work for you. Roll them up. (You did say they were rolls) Place them in an under bed storage box like this (various sizes available): https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-66-Quart-Stadium-Blue-Ultra-Storage-Box/45924275?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=5303&adid=22222222227038513973&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=90376550192&wl4=pla-182517186512&wl5=9030332&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=45924275&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs8XypoDa5gIVOffjBx3gnwPuEAQYASABEgKIefD_BwE And make sure to put a silica/dehumidifier (like for gun safes) inside to help absorb moisture: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SnapSafe-5-in-Large-Rechargeable-Canister-Gun-Safe-Dehumidifier-75902/301613121 I make no guarantees but the box will help keep your leather from being crushed in storage and will provide a "semi-controlled" atmosphere. The safe dehumidifier should help absorb any other latent moisture to help prevent mold/mildew.

I'm still really new to this as a hobbyist so hopefully one of the other more knowledgeable members will chime in and correct me if this is wrong. Have you considered smoothing the flesh side with a glass slicker and then applying the sealant? I don't know if the leather would need to be slicked THEN dyed, or dyed first then slicked but it might give you the smoothed out texture you wanted.

http://y-knotlace.com/white-lace Multiple widths available in the drop down menu.