Threading Cowboy CB 4500

[PAMuzzle]

I recently bought the Cowboy CB 4500.  I watched as it was threaded and the thread was left in to follow when I got it home.  
To make sure I got it right I watched YouTube videos.  This morning I watched 5 videos and saw 5 DIFFERENT ways to thread it.

I had taken a leather holster class with Chris Andre “Slickbald” and used the Cobra Class 4.

I found his video on threading the Cobra as well as Cobra Steve’s video.  They were  both the same.  I decided to use the Cobra way.

Question 1:

Since  the Cobra and Cowboy are based on the same style, is there any problem threading the Cowboy like the Cobra?

Question 2:  If I use #346 thread, can I use it for top thread as well as bobbin thread using a #26 needle?    

Thanks for any help.

[Spyros]

Welcome to the 4500

Yes and yes.  Actually the second yes is qualified: try it.  There are countless tables of thread and needle combinations out there but they are really just best practice recommendations.  I've gone out of these recommended combos of thread and needle sizes a few times for various reasons and usually it still works, just differently.

So try for yourself.  It will do you good to thread and unthread the machine a few times anyway, until you get quick and fluent with it.

[PAMuzzle]

Spyros,

Q 1 - I asked... Since  the Cobra and Cowboy are based on the same style, is there any problem threading the Cowboy like the Cobra?

Your answer to Question #1 was yes.  Did you read wrong or is there a problem threading like a Cobra?

 

I followed Cobra instructions and seems to work fine.  I have threaded the machine several times, so fairly fluent...not so much quick yet, but working on it.

 

These are the first 3 attempts at using the machine:

Edited March 28, 2022 by PAMuzzle

[Dwight]

It all looks good from here.

I basically use 346 for everything . . . top and bottom . . . 

Been messing with some 277  . . .  dropped down to a 25 needle . . . 

Forgot to change it when I went back to 346 . . . machine didn't seem to care.

I just got my 4500 a few months ago . . . am seriously glad I did.

Have fun, may God bless,

Dwight

[PAMuzzle]

thanks Dwight.  Do you use nylon or Polyester?

Edited March 28, 2022 by PAMuzzle

[dikman]

I too noticed that there is more than one way to thread these machines on youtube. I inadvertently threaded mine differently to the "usual(?)" way but it still worked. These machines appear to be fairly forgiving in operation, which is a pleasant surprise.

[Wizcrafts]

Issac Singer created some extraordinary sewing machine designs during the late 1800s and early 1900s that worked with the linen or cotton thread that was extant in those times. Oftentimes, sewers ran their linen thread through thinned liquid wax in wax pots on the top of the machines. Many early heavy duty machines lacked a thread tension release when the foot was lifted. In those machines, the top tension disks acted as an initial partial tensioner while the bottom roller did the main tensioning!  I have a 1921 Singer 42-5 that has no tension release and has a spring loaded bottom roller wheel. Thread with liquid wax, or just plain linen thread is strongly affected by wrapping it a couple of turns around a roller wheel that had a spring pressing against it, acting as a brake. Two full windings can present considerable resistance if the thread is grippy. The more turns, the greater the effect of the beehive spring braking the rotation, causing drag on the top thread. The bottom roller on 441 type machines works on the same basis, although with a little less effect due to bonded thread usually being lubricated, or just plain slick.

I was instructed to feed the top thread 1.5 turns around the bottom roller on my Cowboy CB4500. I now use 2 full turns and find that I can really fine tune the top tension with the roller wheel's beehive spring. The roller gradually increases tension whereas the top disks seem to come on much faster with a small adjustment.

My threading method is to feed the top thread counterclockwise around the top post, from the top to the bottom holes, to counteract the natural coiling of bonded thread. Then, I feed it through the guide loop behind the top disks, which I position as far down as possible without hitting the disks. I pull the thread into and through the tension disks and down through the eyelet guide over the roller, pushing it to the left while facing the left end and roller wheel. I pull it through the eyelet guide and wrap it twice counterclockwise, then back up through the eyelet, From there I feed the thread through the check spring loop, and up to the take-up lever. The rest is self explanatory. I am able to use both the top and bottom tensioners, with the top releasing its tension when the feet are lifted up by the hand or foot lifter.

I find that by feeding the thread through the eyelet over the roller in both directions, it stays put in the roller and doesn't twist out.

[Dwight]

9 hours ago, PAMuzzle said:

thanks Dwight.  Do you use nylon or Polyester?

I prefer nylon . . . what I started with some 20 + years ago.  Cannot find the thread I really liked that Tandy sold then.

It was a "hard" nylon . . . when those stitches went into the leather . . . you didn't pull them out. Today's "bonded nylon" is flimsy and slick.  Don't really like it . . . can't seem to find the hard nylon so I just use this stuff.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Spyros]

18 hours ago, PAMuzzle said:

Spyros,

Q 1 - I asked... Since  the Cobra and Cowboy are based on the same style, is there any problem threading the Cowboy like the Cobra?

Your answer to Question #1 was yes.  Did you read wrong or is there a problem threading like a Cobra?

Yeah sorry, I read too fast.  No problem, the Cobra and the Cowboy for all intents and purposes are the same machine.

[PAMuzzle]

Thanks to all for your help. I may just be able to sew for client’s work soon.