Upgrade my Adler 69

[shoepatcher]

Check Kwok Hing on line.  They are in Singapore and make feet for Adler 69 and lots of other things  Good quality and you can order direct from them.

glenn

[toxo]

10 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Here is the video where you can see me doing my best to stay on the edge of the handle with the Adler. I think it will be easier with a zipper foot set perhaps ground back a little instead of the back foot I made myself from scratch. In there you can also see some of me stitching one of the gussets in place.

Bear with me Brian, I'm still learning a lot of this. I tried to be smart and when designing a handle and a strap for this huge beach bag/tote I had the idea that it would be more comfortable if it wasn't flat underneath so I tried to sandwich two layers of 6mm foam between two layers of turned and stitched leather.

Front

Back

As you can see I was having trouble from the get go (A lot of it down to thread) but a big part of the trouble was because I didn't make it wide enough so the first run of stitches pushed the foam (Or rather the out foot did) slightly over to the other side and so the second run had even less room. Maybe I'll try something on the flatbed next time.

[toxo]

11 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Here is the video where you can see me doing my best to stay on the edge of the handle with the Adler. I think it will be easier with a zipper foot set perhaps ground back a little instead of the back foot I made myself from scratch. In there you can also see some of me stitching one of the gussets in place.

 

What is that blue stiffener you're using? Do you always cover it with the snake/croc etc?

And I do believe my eyes are deceiving me . Surely Wild Harry would've made a double ring to avoid the two straps chafing?

[RockyAussie]

6 hours ago, toxo said:

Bear with me Brian, I'm still learning a lot of this. I tried to be smart and when designing a handle and a strap for this huge beach bag/tote I had the idea that it would be more comfortable if it wasn't flat underneath so I tried to sandwich two layers of 6mm foam between two layers of turned and stitched leather.

Front

Back

As you can see I was having trouble from the get go (A lot of it down to thread) but a big part of the trouble was because I didn't make it wide enough so the first run of stitches pushed the foam (Or rather the out foot did) slightly over to the other side and so the second run had even less room. Maybe I'll try something on the flatbed next time.

Looks to me that your presser feet are not ideally shaped for the foam edge to needle distance. I don't think it will work well on a flatbed as the foam on the bottom side will be pushing up and stopping the strap from laying flat enough to give reliable stitching. The stitches would be likely to miss more as well. If you could load a picture of the strap sitting in place on the machine might help to give a better idea on getting some suggestions. The good thing about using the cylinder is that the swell of the foam can be off the edge of the needle plate and allow the needle to come down squarely.

 

[RockyAussie]

6 hours ago, toxo said:

What is that blue stiffener you're using? Do you always cover it with the snake/croc etc?

There is no blue stiffener used only blue lining leather and the blue leather trim on the gusset. On the gusset edge there is a stiffener inside which has the outside leather folded over it. In the past I have used a flexible cardboard there but these days have gone to using a shoe heel grip material (Aquiline) http://www.texon.com/consumer-applications/texon-aquiline/

which has better flex and strength as well.

6 hours ago, toxo said:

And I do believe my eyes are deceiving me . Surely Wild Harry would've made a double ring to avoid the two straps chafing?

All of the fittings used have a double ring for separate attachment of the shoulder strap. I have never had or heard of any issue with regards to any chafing and I have been making this model for over 25 years now.

[RockyAussie]

7 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I use a 1/2 inch piping foot for the edges of welted straps. If your machine lifts high enough you could even use a 5/8 inch piping set. It sure beats fighting with a right toe foot. 

Thanks @Wizcrafts Now that I have the Cowboy 246 which uses the Singer feet I can afford to give that a try. If not the CB 6900 lifts a little higher (1/2" as against 3/8") and has that beautiful square drive AND uses the Singer feet as well. I do like the smaller cylinder diameter of the CB 246 when it comes to doing the gussets though. I will let you know how it goes on the next batch.

[toxo]

40 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Looks to me that your presser feet are not ideally shaped for the foam edge to needle distance. I don't think it will work well on a flatbed as the foam on the bottom side will be pushing up and stopping the strap from laying flat enough to give reliable stitching. The stitches would be likely to miss more as well. If you could load a picture of the strap sitting in place on the machine might help to give a better idea on getting some suggestions. The good thing about using the cylinder is that the swell of the foam can be off the edge of the needle plate and allow the needle to come down squarely.

 

First of all I'll make the strap wider, if that doesn't work then I'll take out one layer of foam and try to get a good backstitch so I can turn it over so the foam is across the fingers.

[RockyAussie]

2 minutes ago, toxo said:

so the foam is across the fingers

Huh????

[toxo]

1 minute ago, RockyAussie said:

Huh????

With just one layer of foam I should be able to do it on the flatbed and if there's a pronounced bump Just make the bump to be the underside so softer on the fingers. The two sides are identical apart from any bump. And it is just a tote and I'm still working things out.