Seiko stw-8b/Consew 226 belt guard removal, and position of reverse lever, screw in balance wheel

[Peasantlizzie]

I am new here, and have already gained a lot of knowledge just by reading through the questions and answers in this forum. I am not a leather worker but would like to start sewing with heavier duty fabrics, hence buying this machine. I have previously worked on lots of domestic sewing machines, particularly old Singers, and have gone from rarely even changing the needle or doing any oiling (I was never taught maintenance!) to getting old machines going and learning basic maintenance. However, this is my first industrial machine. I bought it from someone who oiled it but that was about it. He kept it at the same stitch length all the time. He didn't even know what the 2 buttons were for although he'd done a lot of sewing on it. I have done some cleaning and oiling and it stitched OK though I have yet to master the whole 
stitch length thing.....

Here are my questions.

1  Most machines I see do not have a belt guard on, which is interesting. I went to remove mine, as I realized it was slightly out of position, meaning I couldn't get the bobbin winder in place correctly. Then I realized that I could only remove it if I removed the balance wheel, as there is a screw holding the guard on, which you can only get to if you do so. I removed the two screws in the wheel and had a bit of a go but it's stuck fast. I could probably just push/bend the guard out of the way of the bobbin winder a bit and be happy with that, but I'd really like to remove it, but am I just giving myself a lot of work which might also give me more problems when I go to replace it? My husband thinks I am.  (I have removed balance wheels plenty of times on domestic machines.)  I have read a post on here by a lady who removed the balance wheel with a puller thing (sorry, have forgotten the correct name) and I realize it could be tricky, to say the least. 

2 There is no screw (I think it's called the adjusting screw) in the balance wheel - does it matter that it's not there?

3 As you can see in the photo of the reverse lever, there is an indent where the lever has clearly been catching - for decades, I would think, to make an indent like that. I assume something needs adjusting but can anyone tell me what exactly?

I have looked all over the internet, and in manuals including military ones, and watched lots of videos but I can't find the answers, so if anyone can help I'd be very grateful!

Lizzie, in Oxfordshire, UK

 

[suzelle]

Lizzie, 

Hmmm, I have the Consew 255 machine, no belt guard on mine. So I am not quite sure what to say about removing it. 

So I am just saying Welcome!

 

[Wizcrafts]

There are often two screws securing a balance wheel to the top shaft.

[Peasantlizzie]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

There are often two screws securing a balance wheel to the top shaft.

Yes, as I said, I did remove those but then realized that the wheel wasn't going to come off at all easily!

[dikman]

You will probably need a pulley/gear puller, very useful for tight pulleys. You should be able to get one on ebay or your local auto shop. Or you could try tapping (gently) around the inside rim with a rubber/nylon/leather mallet to try and loosen it.

None of my machines have guards 'cos real sewers don't need them.

[Peasantlizzie]

11 hours ago, dikman said:

You will probably need a pulley/gear puller, very useful for tight pulleys. You should be able to get one on ebay or your local auto shop. Or you could try tapping (gently) around the inside rim with a rubber/nylon/leather mallet to try and loosen it.

None of my machines have guards 'cos real sewers don't need them.

I knew there had to be a reason why so few machines I've seen photos of had guards!

I did try tapping the wheel gently but had no luck. My husband had thought that I might perhaps have trouble getting the wheel back on in the right position, if I did get it off. what do you think?

I think I might investigate buying or borrowing a gear pulley, as I hate the guard being there. Especially now I know that real sewers don't need them....

[trash treasure]

You could try heating the handwheel with a heat gun - It's aluminum, so that might expand it enough to pull off.  Other than that, if you've already removed the set screws in the belt groove, you'll need a gear puller, something like this :  https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-puller-set-15-pc-62958.html

Don't be tempted to use one of those "3 jaw" pullers, as you'd probably destroy the handwheel.

[dikman]

You could mark the shaft and pulley with a permanent marker first, or a small scratch mark, if you're worried about aligning it. Once it's off if you clean the shaft and inside the pulley thoroughly it should go back on ok. Steel wool might help if solvent won't remove any built up gunk.

The heat gun might be worth a try.

[Peasantlizzie]

22 hours ago, dikman said:

You could mark the shaft and pulley with a permanent marker first, or a small scratch mark, if you're worried about aligning it. Once it's off if you clean the shaft and inside the pulley thoroughly it should go back on ok. Steel wool might help if solvent won't remove any built up gunk.

The heat gun might be worth a try.

By "pulley" do you mean the balance wheel? If not then I'm confused...

[Peasantlizzie]

Thank you to all who have replied. I'll let you know if I manage to get the wheel off.

However, no-one has answered my questions 2 and 3...... I'd be very grateful to anyone who can.

[trash treasure]

  OK -

#2 - I'm thinking you mean the threaded hole in the handwheel end of the top shaft ?  There's usually a screw there to help adjust the end play - You snug up the screw to get the end play right, and then tighten the set screws on the hand wheel to hold the adjustment. The screw is only needed to help the adjustment - The set screws are actually the the things that hold the handwheel in place - You can also do the adjustment by just tapping the wheel carefully, and then tightening the screws.

#3 - If you look at where the reverse lever is attached to the shaft coming out of the lower right end of the machine casting (Clearly visible in your photo, BTW), you see that the lever is clamped to the shaft with a simple pinch bolt - Just loosen the bolt, and you can adjust the position of the lever, on the shaft,  in or out, up or down, to suit your preference.

Also, by the looks of the handwheel, there was probably a special factory puller, that screwed into those 3 radial holes, and then took a center bolt threaded in to push the wheel off the top shaft - Often the way this kind of thing is done, so you'll just have to improvise, lacking that puller

[Peasantlizzie]

7 hours ago, trash treasure said:

  OK -

#2 - I'm thinking you mean the threaded hole in the handwheel end of the top shaft ?  There's usually a screw there to help adjust the end play - You snug up the screw to get the end play right, and then tighten the set screws on the hand wheel to hold the adjustment. The screw is only needed to help the adjustment - The set screws are actually the the things that hold the handwheel in place - You can also do the adjustment by just tapping the wheel carefully, and then tightening the screws.

#3 - If you look at where the reverse lever is attached to the shaft coming out of the lower right end of the machine casting (Clearly visible in your photo, BTW), you see that the lever is clamped to the shaft with a simple pinch bolt - Just loosen the bolt, and you can adjust the position of the lever, on the shaft,  in or out, up or down, to suit your preference.

Also, by the looks of the handwheel, there was probably a special factory puller, that screwed into those 3 radial holes, and then took a center bolt threaded in to push the wheel off the top shaft - Often the way this kind of thing is done, so you'll just have to improvise, lacking that puller

Ah thank you so much, that's very helpful! Yes that threaded hole in the handwheel end of the top shaft is what I was referring to. So it sounds as if it doesn't matter too much that it's missing? Although maybe I should get one.

I did wonder if that bolt on the reverse lever was what I should be adjusting; I will have a go. Makes you wonder why someone didn't do it instead of letting it cause that damage.

I had wondered what those other 3 screw holes were for, so thank you for the explanation.

I have read your reply out to my husband and he thinks a motorcycling friend might have a puller.

Hopefully I shall soon be able to tell you all that I've got the wheel - and wretched belt guard! - off.

[Peasantlizzie]

Hello again

I just thought I'd let you all know that the machine is now up and running (still practising on it though, taking it slowly) minus the belt guard! I was downstairs one day and heard some banging coming from upstairs. I'd talked to my husband about removing the guard and guessed that was what he was up to. I left him to it! He did it - he's had some experience of farm machinery and although I can't repeat his explanation of how he did it I know it involved the strategic placing of coins! After some more cleaning he got it back on as well and everything seems OK. 

Then I practised with the stitch length regulator on some card,  and then with real thread and fabric and all seems to work OK.

I'm so pleased as this machine is a new experience for me and I was worried I'd taken on something I couldn't handle. 

 

Thank you all for your help!

 

Lizzie, UK