cylinder arm machine - which is best for my needs

[Blanka]

Hello everyone

I graduated from a leather course where I've used the Durkopp Adler 669 cylinder arm machine. I am looking for a machine that can be comparable to that, but preferably cheaper. I'm making small leather handbags - it needs to have a cylinder arm. I would like to make belts and wallets as well. I would say I need something that sews through medium thickness, is simple and can sew slowly and precisely when needed. I am looking at the Consew Model 277R-3 and PFAFF 335 and Techsew 2600 Pro models at the moment, but I am also open to find a model that is used or just an old type, but not too sure which brands are the most reliable. 

Thanks for your help in advance 

Blanka from Montréal 

[kgg]

2 hours ago, Blanka said:

I am looking at the Consew Model 277R-3 and PFAFF 335 and Techsew 2600 Pro models at the moment, but I am also open to find a model that is used or just an old type, but not too sure which brands are the most reliable. 

Doing a quick spec search:

Consew 277R-3 Needle system is 135x17 or 16 with a max needle size is #23 and you have to move to either a 277rb-1 or 277rbfs-3 to get the large bobbin. The size #23 needle is good for V138 thread in light to medium material.

PFAFF335 Needle system is 134-35LR max needle size is #16 which is good for V69, low end of industrial size thread. Parts and accessories are expensive. Not a popular brand in Canada as compared to other brand names.

Techsew 2600 Needle system is135x17 or 16 max needle #23. The size #23 needle is good for V138 thread in light to medium material.

2 hours ago, Blanka said:

I would say I need something that sews through medium thickness, is simple and can sew slowly and precisely when needed.

Most machines these days can sew slowly right out of the box if they are equipped with a decent servo motor but can be further slowed down with a reducer pulley. If you want dependable, easy access to inexpensive parts and accessories, better resale value then cut to the chase and get either a used Juki LS-341, Juki LS-1341 or new Juki LS-1341.

Personally I think the Juki's are every bit as good as the Durkopp Adlers but with better access to more accessories and cheaper repairs at least in Canada. If the Juki's are out of your price range then a clone of the Juki LS-341 like the Kobe LS-1341 (out of Ontario) or Techsew 2750 (out of Quebec) are cheaper alternatives. The thing to remember is Juki rates their machines not by what size of thread you can stick through the needle but by what you can sew in both the needle and in the bobbin as well. The Juki LS-1341 is rated for a #25 needle which is good for V207 but the machine is only rated for V138 thread.

kgg

[Blanka]

14 hours ago, kgg said:

Doing a quick spec search:

Consew 277R-3 Needle system is 135x17 or 16 with a max needle size is #23 and you have to move to either a 277rb-1 or 277rbfs-3 to get the large bobbin. The size #23 needle is good for V138 thread in light to medium material.

PFAFF335 Needle system is 134-35LR max needle size is #16 which is good for V69, low end of industrial size thread. Parts and accessories are expensive. Not a popular brand in Canada as compared to other brand names.

Techsew 2600 Needle system is135x17 or 16 max needle #23. The size #23 needle is good for V138 thread in light to medium material.

Most machines these days can sew slowly right out of the box if they are equipped with a decent servo motor but can be further slowed down with a reducer pulley. If you want dependable, easy access to inexpensive parts and accessories, better resale value then cut to the chase and get either a used Juki LS-341, Juki LS-1341 or new Juki LS-1341.

Personally I think the Juki's are every bit as good as the Durkopp Adlers but with better access to more accessories and cheaper repairs at least in Canada. If the Juki's are out of your price range then a clone of the Juki LS-341 like the Kobe LS-1341 (out of Ontario) or Techsew 2750 (out of Quebec) are cheaper alternatives. The thing to remember is Juki rates their machines not by what size of thread you can stick through the needle but by what you can sew in both the needle and in the bobbin as well. The Juki LS-1341 is rated for a #25 needle which is good for V207 but the machine is only rated for V138 thread.

kgg

Thanks a lot kgg! I'll look into these  models you've mentioned! Have a nice day!  

[MtlBiker]

18 hours ago, Blanka said:

Hello everyone

I graduated from a leather course where I've used the Durkopp Adler 669 cylinder arm machine. I am looking for a machine that can be comparable to that, but preferably cheaper. I'm making small leather handbags - it needs to have a cylinder arm. I would like to make belts and wallets as well. I would say I need something that sews through medium thickness, is simple and can sew slowly and precisely when needed. I am looking at the Consew Model 277R-3 and PFAFF 335 and Techsew 2600 Pro models at the moment, but I am also open to find a model that is used or just an old type, but not too sure which brands are the most reliable. 

Thanks for your help in advance 

Blanka from Montréal 

Hi Blanka, and welcome to the forum!  Welcome from a fellow Montrealer!

I'm curious about the leather course you took.

Are you looking for a new or used machine?  I'd suggest that whatever machine you get, you make sure it has a servo motor (most new machines do) and it would be really helpful to also have a speed reducer.  And the other thing that's really nice is a NP (needle positioner) motor.  That can be turned off, but it lets you set the machine to always stop sewing with the needle down in the fabric or up.  I have all that on my Techsew 2750Pro and I am very happy with it.

If you're looking for new, I've bought two new machines (Consew 206RB-5 and Consew skiver) from Equipment Delisle on blvd. St. Laurent.  Stephen Delisle has been very helpful.  I think they sometimes have used machines also and from time to time they sell a demo at a really good price.  Worth checking them out.

Good luck!
 

 

[kgg]

19 hours ago, Blanka said:

I'm making small leather handbags - it needs to have a cylinder arm.

MtlBiker also makes some really nice bags and maybe able to help you choose a style of machine that he finds works best. He does have a cylinder bed , flatbed and a Sailrite portable walking foot.

kgg

[Blanka]

5 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

 

I'm curious about the leather course you took. 

 

 

Hey MtlBiker, at first thanks for your help and all the information above - I'll check out this model. Also, can I search up the bags you're making? I'm curious  

It was a bachelor program of 3 years where I've learned to create bags from the first sketches through models until the final product, all sewn and put together by hand  I would like to create small trunks like this one: 

[Blanka]

5 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

 

Are you looking for a new or used machine?  I'd suggest that whatever machine you get, you make sure it has a servo motor (most new machines do) and it would be really helpful to also have a speed reducer.  And the other thing that's really nice is a NP (needle positioner) motor.  That can be turned off, but it lets you set the machine to always stop sewing with the needle down in the fabric or up.  I have all that on my Techsew 2750Pro and I am very happy with it.

If you're looking for new, I've bought two new machines (Consew 206RB-5 and Consew skiver) from Equipment Delisle on blvd. St. Laurent.  Stephen Delisle has been very helpful.  I think they sometimes have used machines also and from time to time they sell a demo at a really good price.  Worth checking them out.

Good luck!
 

 

I would prefer to find something used - I can't really afford to buy a new machine unless it really is the best option, so I'm still searching, but  I have to make a decision eventually. I also have to consider if anything needs to be changed or fixed it would be easier to go through the process with a warranty, that makes me lean towards the new machines. I'll check that store out as well, thanks again for helping

Blanka 

[MtlBiker]

6 minutes ago, Blanka said:

Hey MtlBiker, at first thanks for your help and all the information above - I'll check out this model. Also, can I search up the bags you're making? I'm curious  

It was a bachelor program of 3 years where I've learned to create bags from the first sketches through models until the final product, all sewn and put together by hand  I would like to create small trunks like this one: 

That's a cool looking bag!  If you're thinking of tackling something like that, you're WAY more advanced than I am!  You've been studying this for over 3 years?  Well, I only started sewing (anything) during the first forced Covid isolation period here.  Before that I couldn't even sew a button on my shirt (and still have trouble with that).  I got hooked with sewing, first making masks, and then moving to pet leashes and harnesses, and then fabric bags and purses.  I only recently got more serious about working with leather and without the helpful folks here on this forum (and YouTube videos), I doubt I would have gotten very far.  But I am hooked, and now have two industrial machines, a half-industrial (Sailrite LSZ-1 portable walking foot) and still the home machine I started with.

From the photo of the bag you posted, I don't really see the advantage of a cylinder arm machine over a flatbed.  My most useful and favorite machine remains my flatbed Consew 206RB-5.  I'd say that gets 90% of my use and my cylinder machine only 10% if that.  So I think that if you're talking about your first serious machine, a flat bed would be best.  With unison/compound/triple feed.

I'm not selling my bags online.... I have a picture framing business and I display some of my bags there and I've been surprised that they sell.  Sewing is a hobby for me (maybe even becoming a passion) and it's not my way to make a living.  I do it for fun and to de-stress from my "real" business.  But here's a photo of the most recent bag I've made...

 

[Blanka]

On 5/17/2022 at 5:06 PM, MtlBiker said:

That's a cool looking bag!  If you're thinking of tackling something like that, you're WAY more advanced than I am!  You've been studying this for over 3 years?  Well, I only started sewing (anything) during the first forced Covid isolation period here.  Before that I couldn't even sew a button on my shirt (and still have trouble with that).  I got hooked with sewing, first making masks, and then moving to pet leashes and harnesses, and then fabric bags and purses.  I only recently got more serious about working with leather and without the helpful folks here on this forum (and YouTube videos), I doubt I would have gotten very far.  But I am hooked, and now have two industrial machines, a half-industrial (Sailrite LSZ-1 portable walking foot) and still the home machine I started with.

From the photo of the bag you posted, I don't really see the advantage of a cylinder arm machine over a flatbed.  My most useful and favorite machine remains my flatbed Consew 206RB-5.  I'd say that gets 90% of my use and my cylinder machine only 10% if that.  So I think that if you're talking about your first serious machine, a flat bed would be best.  With unison/compound/triple feed.

I'm not selling my bags online.... I have a picture framing business and I display some of my bags there and I've been surprised that they sell.  Sewing is a hobby for me (maybe even becoming a passion) and it's not my way to make a living.  I do it for fun and to de-stress from my "real" business.  But here's a photo of the most recent bag I've made...

 

Hey Mtlbiker this is so cool, you've gotten this far by yourself, congratulations! I think it can even be nicer to just have it as a hobby on the side - no pressure on selling them, just doing it for the passion of creating. 

The thing is, I would need the arm to sew parts I can only reach if I can put the bag on the arm. But thanks I'm considering getting a flatbed so it can work as a flatbed machine as well. I'm still trying to figure out which is the best choice - I've just found an old Pfaff 335 H3 model on marketplace, are you familiar with that model? It is way cheaper than every other option at the moment. 

Have a nice evening!

Blanka 

[dikman]

Most of the older 335's were set up as binders so the feed dog only moves back and forth, plus these machines also tend to have a slightly smaller capacity under the feet (8mm) and are happier with #69 thread. I did get mine to work with #138 but it took a bit of tweaking.

Personally, I wouldn't advise it as a first machine unless it's dirt cheap and you know you'll be getting a better machine as well, in that case it would make a useful addition to your shop.