Members TomE Posted August 25, 2022 Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 Just now, Key said: Thanks. You raise a good point about differing awls as I need to have fine holes generally. The more I research the more I sway towards the traditional method with the awl might take longer to learn but seems you have more control and flexibility. Sewing with an awl is one of my favorite leathercrafting activities. You will need a stitching horse or pony, or saddlers clam to hold the work as you juggle the awl and 2 needles. Learning to sharpen an awl blade is essential to your happiness while sewing. No need to buy a fancy, sharp awl -- it will get dull and you'll need to sharpen it sooner or later. I mostly use Osborne #42 or #43 harness awls and shape the blade as I sharpen them. The points are too broad/blunt IMO so I put a more gradual taper on the point while sharpening the cutting edges. The awls eventually get narrower with repeated sharpening and those narrow awls are used for finer sewing. When I'm pushing through really thick leather (20+ oz) I use a peg awl haft with #44 or #45 awl. I think the ideal awl blade has a sharp point that pierces the leather, whereas the wider shank portion of the awl is relatively dull and stretches the hole as the awl is inserted. After making the stitch the leather relaxes and the hole closes around the thread. Highly recommend reading the Stohlman book on hand sewing leather, and videos from Armitage leather and JH Leather for sewing and awl sharpening methods. Quote
Members zuludog Posted August 25, 2022 Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 (edited) I've used a few different awls, but have settled on an Osborne #42 blade in a simple pear shaped haft Traditionally you buy a separate blade & haft then fit them together yourself, which is fiddly, but you only need to do it once - either by knocking them together, or drilling & gluing with epoxy. Or shop around and buy an awl ready assembled There are several YT videos on assembling & sharpening an awl JH Leather's recent video 'awl you need to know' is helpful, also, she does stitching with an awl in many of her videos Here are some UK suppliers, not in any particular order - https://www.metropolitanleather.com https://www.leather4craft.co.uk https://www.artisanleather.co.uk https://www.proatelierplus.com https://www.identityleathercraft.com https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk https://www.sfleather.co.uk https://www.jwoodleathers.co.uk I do leatherwork as a hobby, and I use diamond stitching chisels, so I don't need to work quickly, and I mostly use an awl to complete or open up existing holes. This means I put down my awl if I don't need it. But if you're going to use an awl for stitching, you should probably try holding the needles & awl in your hand together, so you might find a haft with a narrow neck is better for this; search for appropriate videos. Edited August 25, 2022 by zuludog Quote
Members zuludog Posted August 25, 2022 Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 (edited) KEY -- I've just noticed that Artisan Leather are selling pricking irons at half price in their Clearance section. I haven't used them, but they look good, and pricking irons would be OK if you want to use an awl Oh, and you'll need a sewing clam or pony as well Edited August 25, 2022 by zuludog Quote
Members Klara Posted August 25, 2022 Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 21 hours ago, zuludog said: STITCHING CHISELS Have longer prongs so you both mark the position of the holes and make the holes themselves .... French or European style which have flat sided prongs and flat tips Sorry, but my information is different: My French supplier states clearly that the things with the V-shaped teeth are pricking irons for marking stitches and that you can't pierce leather that's more than 1.5 mm thick. https://www.decocuir.com/griffe-frapper-precision-deco-cuir-300-n9-2dents-c2x36253279 Which is logical if you look at the teeth. @Key There are quite a lot of good suppliers in England (AbbeyofEngland, for one), and several leatherworkers with YouTube channels, amongst them J.H. Leather and Nigel Armitage. Who incidentally have practically opposite way of working, but both produce wonderful things. Have fun discovering leatherwork! Btw, TomE mentioned a stitching pony: If you have any experience with woodwork, (access to) tools and some wood, you can make one easily yourself. Quote
Members Key Posted August 25, 2022 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 12 hours ago, TomE said: Sewing with an awl is one of my favorite leathercrafting activities. You will need a stitching horse or pony, or saddlers clam to hold the work as you juggle the awl and 2 needles. Learning to sharpen an awl blade is essential to your happiness while sewing. No need to buy a fancy, sharp awl -- it will get dull and you'll need to sharpen it sooner or later. I mostly use Osborne #42 or #43 harness awls and shape the blade as I sharpen them. The points are too broad/blunt IMO so I put a more gradual taper on the point while sharpening the cutting edges. The awls eventually get narrower with repeated sharpening and those narrow awls are used for finer sewing. When I'm pushing through really thick leather (20+ oz) I use a peg awl haft with #44 or #45 awl. I think the ideal awl blade has a sharp point that pierces the leather, whereas the wider shank portion of the awl is relatively dull and stretches the hole as the awl is inserted. After making the stitch the leather relaxes and the hole closes around the thread. Highly recommend reading the Stohlman book on hand sewing leather, and videos from Armitage leather and JH Leather for sewing and awl sharpening methods. Im already on the case hunting down a pony, being from the UK they are not easy to come by. Many I have seen look unnecessarily complicated and not very durable. Glad you touched on awls because that is next on my list to understand as the little browsing i have done so far on the subject like chisels have confused me. There are so many awls ive seen one called a badminton awl, stitch, scratch ect. Just looking at them all their blades seem too broad for what im looking for. I need a small hole (almost needle like) for a fine stitch as i plan on making luxury shoes and eventually small leather goods. I reached out to Jo from JH Leather who was kind enough to give me some pointers but She used much heavy leather than I intend on using. An awl with a needle like blade is what i need. I will continue reaserching. Thank you Quote
Members Key Posted August 25, 2022 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 9 hours ago, zuludog said: I've used a few different awls, but have settled on an Osborne #42 blade in a simple pear shaped haft Traditionally you buy a separate blade & haft then fit them together yourself, which is fiddly, but you only need to do it once - either by knocking them together, or drilling & gluing with epoxy. Or shop around and buy an awl ready assembled There are several YT videos on assembling & sharpening an awl JH Leather's recent video 'awl you need to know' is helpful, also, she does stitching with an awl in many of her videos Here are some UK suppliers, not in any particular order - https://www.metropolitanleather.com https://www.leather4craft.co.uk https://www.artisanleather.co.uk https://www.proatelierplus.com https://www.identityleathercraft.com https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk https://www.sfleather.co.uk https://www.jwoodleathers.co.uk I do leatherwork as a hobby, and I use diamond stitching chisels, so I don't need to work quickly, and I mostly use an awl to complete or open up existing holes. This means I put down my awl if I don't need it. But if you're going to use an awl for stitching, you should probably try holding the needles & awl in your hand together, so you might find a haft with a narrow neck is better for this; search for appropriate videos. Thanks for all the links. like I was saying to @TomE Jo from JH Leathers messaged me with some pointers. Might be my ignorance but i need a awl with a fine needle size blade. Not sure if im looking for something that doesn’t exist. 9 hours ago, zuludog said: KEY -- I've just noticed that Artisan Leather are selling pricking irons at half price in their Clearance section. I haven't used them, but they look good, and pricking irons would be OK if you want to use an awl Oh, and you'll need a sewing clam or pony as well Thanks!! Ill take a look Quote
Members Key Posted August 25, 2022 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 7 hours ago, Klara said: Sorry, but my information is different: My French supplier states clearly that the things with the V-shaped teeth are pricking irons for marking stitches and that you can't pierce leather that's more than 1.5 mm thick. https://www.decocuir.com/griffe-frapper-precision-deco-cuir-300-n9-2dents-c2x36253279 Which is logical if you look at the teeth. @Key There are quite a lot of good suppliers in England (AbbeyofEngland, for one), and several leatherworkers with YouTube channels, amongst them J.H. Leather and Nigel Armitage. Who incidentally have practically opposite way of working, but both produce wonderful things. Have fun discovering leatherwork! Btw, TomE mentioned a stitching pony: If you have any experience with woodwork, (access to) tools and some wood, you can make one easily yourself. Thanks Quote
Members zuludog Posted August 25, 2022 Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 (edited) An Osborne #41 is a fine saddler's awl blade. Try one, and if you want anything thinner or narrower you can always thin it on a sharpening stone Pro Atelier Plus have some fine awl blades by Condor, and you can have them ready sharpened & mounted if you wish. Why not try the smallest blade by Osborne or Condor, and see how you go, they're not that expensive. But I think you might find they're narrow enough As the name implies, a round awl has a round cross section, and again as the name implies it is also called a scratch awl It is used to mark out shapes & patterns on leather; to enlarge stitching holes; to tease out & adjust stitching; and various other poking & prodding jobs in leatherwork. They're cheap enough. Edited August 25, 2022 by zuludog Quote
Members TomE Posted August 25, 2022 Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 Forget where I saw it but someone had sharpened a bicycle spoke to use as a fine awl for harness work. I'm thinking they were sewing 14 stitches per inch, which is out of my league. Quote
Members Bert03241 Posted August 25, 2022 Members Report Posted August 25, 2022 14 per inch thats crazy Quote
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