AlZilla Posted September 16, 2022 Author Report Posted September 16, 2022 24 minutes ago, Garyak said: Worn bell crank? Well, I'll go look at parts diagrams and figure out which part that is. Looking at videos tonight I also realize my foot isn't actually lifting when it comes forward. I bet that will tell someone something. I'm off to the parts diagrams ... Thanks! Quote “Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” - Voltaire “Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.” - Aristotle
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted September 16, 2022 Moderator Report Posted September 16, 2022 2 hours ago, AlZilla said: OK, I have an odd problem. The foot walks back and forth fine when the foot is uu but has maybe a 1/4 of play forwards and back if I reach up and try to move it. A factory spec 29k only has enough slack in the feed motion cam to allow it to rotate over 360 degrees and cause the feed motion ring (which it revolves in) to move up and down. The stitch length is entirely dependent on this part having nearly zero free motion without binding. Replacements are available from the usual aftermarket sources. Make sure when you test for slack that the movable stitch regulator bracket and thumbscrew are in place somewhere along the extended arms above the foot. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
AlZilla Posted September 16, 2022 Author Report Posted September 16, 2022 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said: A factory spec 29k only has enough slack in the feed motion cam to allow it to rotate over 360 degrees and cause the feed motion ring (which it revolves in) to move up and down. The stitch length is entirely dependent on this part having nearly zero free motion without binding. Replacements are available from the usual aftermarket sources. Make sure when you test for slack that the movable stitch regulator bracket and thumbscrew are in place somewhere along the extended arms above the foot. These terms are confusing me a bit. Do you mean the bell crank and the ring slide bar with the cam roller and stud? 8559 and 8562? Edited September 16, 2022 by AlZilla Quote “Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” - Voltaire “Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.” - Aristotle
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted September 16, 2022 Moderator Report Posted September 16, 2022 14 minutes ago, AlZilla said: These terms are confusing me a bit. Do you mean the bell crank and the ring slide bar with the cam roller and stud? 8559 and 8562? Yes. I don't have nomenclature handy unless I did up a manual. I use common names that we use on Leatherworker.net. Sorry for any cornfusion. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
AlZilla Posted September 16, 2022 Author Report Posted September 16, 2022 5 hours ago, Wizcrafts said: Yes. I don't have nomenclature handy unless I did up a manual. I use common names that we use on Leatherworker.net. Sorry for any cornfusion. No problem at all, just want to be sure I order the right things. In fact, it's a manual you posted I'm using! I can see where those parts could be my trouble. Thanks for your help. Quote “Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” - Voltaire “Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.” - Aristotle
Members shoepatcher Posted September 16, 2022 Members Report Posted September 16, 2022 The Bell crank made today is for the later 29K models. The one you get today will not fit your machine without a lot of grinding. Just so you know. glenn Quote
AlZilla Posted September 17, 2022 Author Report Posted September 17, 2022 19 hours ago, shoepatcher said: The Bell crank made today is for the later 29K models. The one you get today will not fit your machine without a lot of grinding. Just so you know. glenn Well, that's discouraging. But, I can grind. What part requires grinding? Hopefully its not a curve or, worse an inside curve. Thanks Quote “Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” - Voltaire “Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.” - Aristotle
Members Constabulary Posted September 17, 2022 Members Report Posted September 17, 2022 I once "implanted" a modern bell crank lever in a ancient 29K1. Maybe this thread is helpful Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
AlZilla Posted September 17, 2022 Author Report Posted September 17, 2022 8 hours ago, Constabulary said: I once "implanted" a modern bell crank lever in a ancient 29K1. Maybe this thread is helpful Very, very nice. Thank you for posting a link to your old thread. Looks like a fast easy adaption. I'm headed to ebay today to get the parts. Quote “Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” - Voltaire “Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.” - Aristotle
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted September 18, 2022 Moderator Report Posted September 18, 2022 In my previous lifetime I owned a very old Singer 29-4 patcher. It suffered from short stitches (~8/inch) and I started investigating why that was. It didn't take long to realize that the feed motion crank had too much slop.So, I disassembled the head and extracted the feed motion crank. It has a protruding "puck" on one side that moves inside the ring that moves up and down. My crank had about 3/32 inch of slop. I had some bronze brazing rods and a torch that I used to build up the density on the puck. Then I used a sander and a file to reduce the size until I got the best fit without binding in the feed motion ring (whatever). My final step was to polish it to a shine using green rouge on my buffing wheel. The results were amazing! I was getting over 5 to the inch instead of 8! If you can braze bronze rod and file and polish the puck to shape, you can restore the full stitch length for the cost of the propane and a brazing rod. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
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