Mauls

[Rich1]

I am looking at berry king mauls, not sure if I want taper or round. Can anyone tell me advantages and disadvantages of either. I do combo of tooling and setting snaps, punching holes and all the fun stuff. Looking at 20 oz. Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

[doubleh]

I don't like the round or tapered mauls at all. I bought one to try and decided it makes a good paper weight. I also bought a hammer shaped maul and don't care for it. It transmits more shock to your hand than the rawhide mauls with wooden handles do. I was replacing my old, old Tandy maul from when they sold decent tools. I replaced it with a Garland and find I don't care for the handle as it is little more than a round stick. When did decently shaped wooden handles disappear? It seems every wooden handled tool today has gone to just a round stick. I also prefer a maul around only 16 oz. and use a ball peen hammer for snap setting.

The choice is up to you. Only you can decide what you like best because we all differ a little. The hunt could prove expensive. I have a brand new rawhide maul that wasn't cheap that I don't like and can see no way to replace the handle. I wonder if adding bondo and shaping it to fit would help----and last.

Edited October 26, 2022 by doubleh

[Tugadude]

Like anything, you'll find folks with all sorts of opinions and they are all valid.  In the end, if it works for you, it works.

Here's a thread discussing whether to use a round or tapered maul.  Then general reason to use tapered is that it allows for a little less elbow movement.  That might be helpful, might not.  To me it also matters how you are seated.  A higher versus lower chair, etc.

If you use it a lot, you'll want to find a comfortable ergonomic environment in which to do it.  I'm sure if you search you'll find other useful threads.

 

[sparctek]

I'll add my perspective from someone that is newish to leather work.  I do leather work as a Hobby and I was in the same position as the OP when I wanted to upgrade my Tandy yellow poly mallet. After quite a bit of research I settled on a tapered maul weighing ~14 oz. The reason I went with a tapered maul is because I tend to rest my elbow on the table/desk when tooling. The angle on the maul head allows for a solid hit while I do that. It may seem like a small thing but, for me, it helped quite a bit. Before getting the tapered maul some of my strikes would slide off, especially when tilting a tool such as when tapering off a beveling run.

For me 14 oz is just right for tooling. It lets me tool for a couple of hours at a time effectively, but without too much stress/fatigue on my arm.

If you have the ability to try try different types/weights that would be ideal. If you don't have that ability, a 16 oz maul would be a good place to start.

Hope this helps.

[Rich1]

Thank you all for your opinions. I know it’s a personal decision but I like to get other opinions to help decide. Thank you again

 

[ArkieNewbie]

On 10/26/2022 at 10:50 AM, doubleh said:

When did decently shaped wooden handles disappear? It seems every wooden handled tool today has gone to just a round stick.

I bought the 8 oz economy poly mallet from SLC when I got started and I love the handle on it. It is nicely contoured and fits my hand nicely. Only $16. It has worked great for me so far. There are some time I would like to have one a little heavier but for the money, it ain't too bad. 

@Rich1 I use the mallet mentioned above for EVERYTHING. Now, obviously I am just a beginner and I have never used a maul so, if you have your mind set on a maul, I'm not much help. 

 

[bruce johnson]

I got linked in the thread mentioned above to a post from 2009 where I gave an opinion then. Here is what changed for me in 13 years - I continued to do a heavy amount of leather work (some know my past history) until about 5 years ago when I switched trails and started selling leather tools as the main part of the business.  In the meantime since 2009 I had replaced every straight maul with a tapered maul. My wife does leatherwork for fun and uses some straight mauls once in a while I guess. I see them out on the bench. I have an article series going right now in ShopTalk magazine on upgrading tools and striking tools to me are the second thing to upgrade once you get a good swivel knife if you are doing any carving. Everyone needs a 16 oz maul for general tooling. Once you get that - go lighter if you are doing a lot of little sharp stamps like bargrounders, go heavier if you are doing geometric stamps with a lot of face. My tools paid for themselves through my and I ended up with 12 oz, 16 oz, 1.5#, 2#,2.5# and 3#. What I used depended on the stamp or punch. Realistically the only time I use the 3# punch much is punching out rosettes. 

     Which maker to go with depends on a lot of things. I have mauls through here from most of the major current makers. I've had the $20 Amazons on up too. Which one to choose depends on your anticipated usage, what you will tolerate, and your budget. Light use on the occasional billfold for a fun hobby, the smooth nylon head/wood handle Amazon may be OK without tying up much money. Stamp three notebooks a week that you sell and a grippier head and ergonomic handle more expensive version should be more enjoyable to use. That maul will pay for itself. Every user has a favorite handle, head material, and price point. There are several makers out there to fit that.  I've got my personal favorite and that's one of the reasons I sell that maker's particularly.

[Rich1]

Thanks Bruce, very informative.