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Posted (edited)
35 minutes ago, johnnydb said:

I've successfully used feelings regular dye (not pro dye) that had been drastically diluted with neatsfoot oil.  Like 3% dye and 97% neatsfoot.  

Dip dying then is not a viable option....where it will give a homogeneous color it turns the leather into a piece of rubber that shrinks too much to be of use.  Not to mention that it continually gives off oil.  

A paint roller brush that overwhelms the piece you are dying is a good method...but for larger pieces you need to use a larger roller.   You don't want your roller to develop dry vs excess spots.  

 

But in truth I don't understand why everyone wants machine like precision...you are making an artisan product.  It's expected to have tiny "flaws" or inconsistencies because it's a hand made product.  That includes the dying.  Factory made crap that is mass produced and "perfect" is cheap and usually readily available for pennies on the dollar vx what you are crafting.   

 

Sure you want it to be done well...to the best of your abilities.   But you are not a machine.  You are in the role of a craftsman.  Do well and pay attention to the finishing details that you can manage.  The dye imperfections will fade and spread with time.  So don't sweat them too much.  

I tend to agree with this sentiment.  The same holds true for character marks in leather.  I don't consider them flaws, just part of the deal.  But I also respect the decision to avoid them.  Different strokes for different folks.

On a related note, I am a wrist watch fan and you wouldn't believe the number of companies that are selling watches made to look worn.  They are literally subjecting them to abuse prior to selling them, accelerating the patina so to speak.  Amazing, but there you are.

 

Edit:  P.S.  Next thing you know they'll be selling blue jeans with holes in them.  

Edited by Tugadude
  • CFM
Posted

I use a dauber most of the time. Up and down once, back and forth once. And finally spiraling out from the center. The looks will even out with bit of buffing to remove excess pigment and a light oiling.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

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Posted

I dip dye (in similar fashion to Dwight's instructions above) or use shearing for larger leather pieces that won't fit in my containers (portfolio covers, etc). I used to "try" to use daubers for this kinda task but it always ended up "streaky" no matter how/what method or pattern I went about it...the larger shearing piece works better with my 50/50 dye/thinner mix and I get a more even soaking on those bigger cuts of leather. If I'm going to do a "soap-wash" finish on the leather, I'll use a lighter dye color first because that process always darkens it to nearly the final desired color (i.e. use a lighter brown dye if wanting walnut or dark brown...it will turn a single coat of saddle tan to an almost medium of you aren't careful). Of course, I finish up with a light coat of pure neatsfoot oil (not the compound) after all has had time to dry.

Have a great day!

Chris

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