Takedown fly rod/reel case

[GrampaJoel]

7 hours ago, Goldshot Ron said:

Joel,

I was wondering just the other day if you had finished that case.  It looks really good.  It shows that you took a lot of time in your design and pattern work.  Great job.

Ron

Hey Ron,,How’s it going? Built any saddles lately?

yeah little league fall baseball got in the way for awhile. Little grandson sitting and picking up from school,,,fun stuff like that.

Sometimes it’s great to be an old Grampa.

plus there were some unexpected events.

but the case finally  got done, and is now in North Carolina.

the next case will certainly be built differently.

 

4 hours ago, Gezzer said:

Very NICE !!!

Thank you!

6 hours ago, spacedog said:

Wow! That is very nicely done. Just excellent work.

Thank you!

[DwightT]

On 11/22/2022 at 11:06 AM, GrampaJoel said:

Dwight I first measured the diameter of the internal tube. Then the outside of the leather covering the tube. I decided how much recess I wanted and cut a circle to accommodate the measurements.  I used a circle cutter to cut the end cap round. I used the internal tube as a wet mold for the end cap. And trimmed when the sewing was finished. I skiver the internal cap a little to make it more flexible.

Thanks.  Seems so simple that now I feel like an idiot for asking (but the only foolish question is the one that isn't asked).  I was thinking that you would have to have cut a dart in the inner rim to get it to fit properly.  I didn't even think about wet molding.  Haven't done any yet, so it just didn't come to mind.  I'll be trying that in the next day or two on the next cup that I do.

Thanks again.

    /dwight

[GrampaJoel]

12 hours ago, DwightT said:

Thanks.  Seems so simple that now I feel like an idiot for asking (but the only foolish question is the one that isn't asked).  I was thinking that you would have to have cut a dart in the inner rim to get it to fit properly.  I didn't even think about wet molding.  Haven't done any yet, so it just didn't come to mind.  I'll be trying that in the next day or two on the next cup that I do.

Thanks again.

    /dwight

Dwight

skiving the edges of the formed piece helps the forming.

the outside was just glued and sewn. Around the formed piece.

it was easier and less time consuming than it is to write about or to try and explain.

But, if you have any more questions I’m happy to share my process and explain it the best I can.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO EACH OF YOU!

Joel

[DwightT]

I finished a dice cup today using your technique (mostly) for the base.  I'll need some more practice,  but I have to say that I like the process and the results much more than the flush base that I was doing.  I started by cutting a circle that had a radius that was about 3/8" longer than the circle that I would have used for a flush fit.  After skiving and wetting,  I did some initial shaping over the Campbell soup can that I was using as a mandrel. I then inserted it into the tube, smoothed the fit and stitched it in. Next I cut off the excess (about 1/8"), and finished the edge as normal.  As I said,  I think it looks a lot better than what I was getting before.

    /dwight

[toxo]

On 11/21/2022 at 9:34 PM, GrampaJoel said:

I made this takedown fly rod/reel case for a friend.

I made my own pattern, and the case is completely hand stitched.   
It’s been awhile since I made something completely hand stitched.
I forgot how much work big items are to get perfect.

5-6oz Wicket/Craig harness leather.
Tobacco colored leather.

I used orange pumpkin colored Ritza waxed poly thread.

It was a lot of stitching by hand. Some ok, some not so ok.

I’ll certainly make some changes to my pattern next time.

Excellent practical project and very well executed, well done.

 

[GrampaJoel]

7 hours ago, toxo said:

Excellent practical project and very well executed, well done.

 

Thank you.

Joel

[GrampaJoel]

15 hours ago, DwightT said:

I finished a dice cup today using your technique (mostly) for the base.  I'll need some more practice,  but I have to say that I like the process and the results much more than the flush base that I was doing.  I started by cutting a circle that had a radius that was about 3/8" longer than the circle that I would have used for a flush fit.  After skiving and wetting,  I did some initial shaping over the Campbell soup can that I was using as a mandrel. I then inserted it into the tube, smoothed the fit and stitched it in. Next I cut off the excess (about 1/8"), and finished the edge as normal.  As I said,  I think it looks a lot better than what I was getting before.

    /dwight

Ok,,, it looks you got the idea.
I have found that if you make the overhang,(lip?) of the bottom about 1/4” in length,,  it helps ‘hide’ the uneven underside stitching somewhat.

my process is

1. to make the mold.
2. Then cut and skive  it at the length I need.

3.Then put the stitch line on the outside wrap , before wrapping around the mandrel.. and mark the stitching holes.

4. when I stitch I use the outside marked stitching holes and push my awl through aiming for the center of the bottom. Hoping to get an even spacing on the underside. If you look closely at my picture in the above posting, you can see that it doesn’t always work.

I think stitch spacing has a lot to do with it. Or maybe calculus, or quantum physics??

anyway,,, Dwight,,,I can see you have got the idea. Now all it takes is lots of practice, and patience.

good going.

Joel

edit to add. The bottom molds a lot easier if it is about 1/2 as thick as the outside.

Edited November 28, 2022 by GrampaJoel