What are Suitable Leathers for Watch Straps?

[Schick]

I am wondering what types of leather are best for watch straps. 

I know that there are exotics, but wonder mostly about what types of common leather are best for watch straps. I really want to make straps, and have been experimenting with cheap crap leather so far. I want to take the plunge and get some nice leather.

Are chrome and veg used?

Is pull-up a good choice?

I have considered strap lining leather too. I note that some manufacturers use products such as calf, goat, and other thin skins.

[Tugadude]

Danne is a member here and has turned out some incredible straps so I hope he gives his opinion.  

Personally I've used many types of leather with pretty good results.  A lot depends on the style of strap.  I don't mean that as a cop-out, it is true.  For rustic, thick bands for large field watches you can get by with pretty much anything so long as it meets your aesthetic tastes.

Dress watches demand thinner leathers and look especially classy on exotics such as alligator.  Many of those will be padded so the top layer of leather is quite thin.  

There is also the method or methods used to create the strap.  Are you simply going to skive the ends and fold them over?  Are you going to do the same and add another layer on the inside as is often done?  All of it makes a difference.  

I think for the average strap calfskin works well as does kangaroo.  The kangaroo stretches less which can be a good thing.  

Let us know what sort of straps interest you.  Maybe link some photos of straps which match what you have in mind and we can get more specific.

Good luck, they are fun and really can test your skills.

[Danne]

You can use basically any leather, but making straps is harder than I first thought, or making good quality straps that is durable and comfortable. 

I'm no expert, and I'm completely self taught, but I experiment a lot with different construction methods and have learned to make some types of straps that I would say are very well constructed.

Chrome tanned or vegetable tanned doesn't matter, sure you have to paint the edges on chrome tanned leathers. But the temper is more important.

Let's take two examples. If you make a strap with one of the more basic construction methods, one top layer and a lining layer. If you would make this in a soft stretchy leather, it would almost instantly stretch at the lugs and buckle pin holes. If you would make it in a stiffer veg tan, or maybe bridle or cordovan it would hold up good quite without reinforcement. 

I would start with using veg tan leather like Walpier Buttero, LaPerla Azzurra Dakota, Wicket & Craig, and other leather that isn't like stretchy and super soft. 

When it comes to lining, a lot of people use Haas or Degermann Zermatt calf, or Degermann Vat alsavel (Because it's moisture resistant and hypoallergenic) But other softer leather with a finish is also a good choice, since it's comfortable around your wrist and doesn't pick up moisture. 

Edited January 6, 2023 by Danne

[Schick]

Thanks for the responses.

I am eager to try a variety of leathers, depending on my budget. I realize that some leathers are a bit thin. I have already purchased interface, that I hope will strengthen some types of straps, as needed.

 

I was hoping to try a few different approaches. I hope to try the typical (and really nice, in my opinion) straps where the ends are skived and folded then both strap portions lined. I also want to practice with more straps with thicker leathers in the middle area, for the raised look.

 

Of course I want to try simpler straps, with a single leather piece skived at the ends, and a nice wrap stitch.

 

I know it is a pipe dream, but I would one day like to make straps with the sides skived and folded over along the length. I find that a great look when accompanied with a nice lining.

 

So far I have been practicing with skived ends on cheap leathers. I have suffered a little frustration by trying old upholstery leathers. Man, they suck to skive, as they are stretchy as heck. I have upgraded to slightly better practice leathers. I line them with inexpensive, glazed pigskin. I occasionally sandwich sections of carefully skived scrap veg-tan in the middle for the plump look. :-)

 

So far, my skiving, edge painting, and stitch hole punching (chiselling?) is really improving. I need to work on smoother cutting, and of course sharpening and strapping tools.

Thanks for all the response and support.

[Handstitched]

I have used Kangaroo leather for watch straps quite a few times  Not sure if you have roo hides available where you are though.

HS

[Danne]

2 hours ago, Schick said:

Thanks for the responses.

I am eager to try a variety of leathers, depending on my budget. I realize that some leathers are a bit thin. I have already purchased interface, that I hope will strengthen some types of straps, as needed.

 

I was hoping to try a few different approaches. I hope to try the typical (and really nice, in my opinion) straps where the ends are skived and folded then both strap portions lined. I also want to practice with more straps with thicker leathers in the middle area, for the raised look.

 

Of course I want to try simpler straps, with a single leather piece skived at the ends, and a nice wrap stitch.

 

I know it is a pipe dream, but I would one day like to make straps with the sides skived and folded over along the length. I find that a great look when accompanied with a nice lining.

 

So far I have been practicing with skived ends on cheap leathers. I have suffered a little frustration by trying old upholstery leathers. Man, they suck to skive, as they are stretchy as heck. I have upgraded to slightly better practice leathers. I line them with inexpensive, glazed pigskin. I occasionally sandwich sections of carefully skived scrap veg-tan in the middle for the plump look. :-)

 

So far, my skiving, edge painting, and stitch hole punching (chiselling?) is really improving. I need to work on smoother cutting, and of course sharpening and strapping tools.

Thanks for all the response and support.

With interface I guess you mean a reinforcement material. Keep in mind that with flat straps reinforcement is relatively simple, but once you add that raised look (padding) it start to complicate things, because a lot of the reinforcement suitable for straps are dimensionally stable, and when you fold your padded strap around your wrist, depending on how you have used your reinforcement it can result in the top leather not being able to "expand" over the padding, and it doesn't fold very well. 

With the sides folded over along the length, if you want to look more into that google remborde watch strap. You can see a lot of photos on google images also. I haven't tried it yet.

Good luck.

[Schick]

20 hours ago, Danne said:

With interface I guess you mean a reinforcement material. Keep in mind that with flat straps reinforcement is relatively simple, but once you add that raised look (padding) it start to complicate things, because a lot of the reinforcement suitable for straps are dimensionally stable, and when you fold your padded strap around your wrist, depending on how you have used your reinforcement it can result in the top leather not being able to "expand" over the padding, and it doesn't fold very well. 

With the sides folded over along the length, if you want to look more into that google remborde watch strap. You can see a lot of photos on google images also. I haven't tried it yet.

Good luck.

 Thank you for the helpful information. I have a lot to learn.

[Danne]

12 minutes ago, Schick said:

 Thank you for the helpful information. I have a lot to learn.

One material that is popular as reinforcement, and something you can experiment with are what people call Velodon (I guess it's because Hermès call it Velodon.

From my knowledge and the versions I have of this material there are Freudenberg Vildona SH-1220 and Jaeger 1961, they are both 0.18-0.19mm in thickness and available in white and black.

There are a lot of other options also of course, I like Luigi Carnevali Nylon pesante, but haven't found a reseller of this material, and buying from the producer is full rolls (100 linear meter?)

 

 

[hotleatherworlds]

Soft and sturdy leather is to go leather for watch straps. I actually use straps made from Calfskin Leather as I feel that it is comfortable to wear for a long time and also suits many different styles.