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chefben4

Help finding a part!! Singer 111w155

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Hello all! With hours and hours of struggling to figure out the tension issues on my 111w155, and frankly learning the machine, I I realized I am missing the tension release pin entirely.

I have looked all over to find one and cannot seem to find it. I believe it to be Singer part # 23556?

Basically looking for the pin that release tension discs when feed dog is raised. Thanks all!

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I usually use a small nail for that
which I cut to size

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https://www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/new-replacement-tension-assembly-singer-part-240446

Look at the second picture in this listing. I wonder if the release rod is part of the tension assembly ...

One of the experts here will have the answer.

Edited by AlZilla
quantum entanglement

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35 minutes ago, Michiel said:

I usually use a small nail for that
which I cut to size

Unfortunately I’m a total beginner so I don’t even know what it looks like!

23 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

https://www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/new-replacement-tension-assembly-singer-part-240446

Look at the second picture in this listing. I wonder if the release rod is part of the tension assembly ...

One of the experts here will have the answer.

Unfortunately not included with this!

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Maybe the 223704, tension release plunger

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304404498645

223704.png

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That doesn’t look like it. I’m lead to believe it looks like this part (#20).  This is from a previous leather worker thread but no part number or source was disclosed.

664FA812-1635-4D1B-B0B5-97F0967DA501.jpeg

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Part of the 240446, Tension Bracket

 

240446.png

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I can't attach a pdf. Search online for 111w155.pdf - it's a parts list for your machine.  Maybe you can noodle it out.

You originally said "Basically looking for the pin that release tension discs when feed dog is raised" - I'm pretty certain that 223704. Maybe you're looking for something else.

But here's a question - does the tension release when you lift the presser foot?

I've found, even as a total rookie, that disassembling the whole tension unit, cleaning it and polishing everything that comes in contact with the thread has been helpful. It's straightened me out a few times.

Edited by AlZilla

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Not sure if it helps, but it goes in here. (See photo). Correct part number listed above in my original post Im(I think). 

AD08884F-6654-49AA-A12B-2E5A69E34202.jpeg

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Anything that fits in the hole will work - nail, coat hanger, prong off corn cob holder, thick paper clip, small drill bit, wire cut out of a fence, etc.

edit: straight shank of a big fish hook, straight portion of a mouse trap spring, section out of a kitchen wire wisk

Edited by DonInReno

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11 minutes ago, DonInReno said:

Anything that fits in the hole will work - nail, coat hanger, prong off corn cob holder, thick paper clip, small drill bit, wire cut out of a fence, etc.

edit: straight shank of a big fish hook, straight portion of a mouse trap spring

If this is true, that would make my day. However, what causes the pin to go in and out with the feed dog raising (thus pushing against tension assembly and releasing disc tension)

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The pin (#20) goes in the hole - in there is a doohickey that’s moved in or out by the lift of the presser foot.   I have two 11w155s and both of these pins are slightly different lengths - it doesn’t matter much as long as it fits the hole and moves the transfer lever.

Pin #11 is normally the one that gets altered for proper tension release, but transfer lever #17 can be slightly bent, although changing pin length is pretty easy.

The trick is to get the length of the pin so it opens the tension disks only when presser lift lever is fully open, but keeps thread tension when he presser foot is partially lifted to turn the leather. 
 

If the doohickey inside the head does not move with the presser foot lifter, there is often a broken tab on the doohickey and it has to be replaced.  Unfortunately it’s pretty involved to get it replaced, but it’s not an uncommon failure.

 

Edited by DonInReno

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Give me a few minutes and I’ll pull and measure that pin.

 

edit:   This pin has a Simanco part number and is well worn from being a retired factory machine, so originally it was probably 2-1/4” long. I’m not sure how well it showed up in the picture, but in addition to the slight taper on the ends the very end is rounded over a bit and not flat.

The diameter is essentially 11/64”, but at least on my machine a 3/16” drill bit fits the hole.  Home Depot often stocks these longer Irwin drill bits - the shank of an ordinary drill bit is pretty short.

The transfer punch is 4.25mm and would also work well.

I ran a file across the original and it’s harder than a nail, but not by much.   The shank of a box store drill bit or the shank of a Harbor Freight transfer punch are very close - I’d think they are all pretty ordinary medium carbon steel that’s not heat treated.  The tip of the drill bit and transfer punch are hardened, but not the shank.

 

 

83C7BF60-9B14-4E98-B391-F0900C44240E.jpeg

35C313E2-C994-4080-BE99-21277772D115.jpeg

49654276-E3EF-4EB2-BA9A-B47C831E2DB8.jpeg

Edited by DonInReno

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This came up on Amazon for $3 and free shipping. 

5FF34B3A-88F2-47A5-A697-250AEDC40B6E.jpeg

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This is even cheaper, but it’s only available in 3/16”.

342B7709-0A65-4648-8933-9DA8EC3EDA37.jpeg

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1 hour ago, DonInReno said:

Give me a few minutes and I’ll pull and measure that pin.

 

edit:   This pin has a Simanco part number and is well worn from being a retired factory machine, so originally it was probably 2-1/4” long. I’m not sure how well it showed up in the picture, but in addition to the slight taper on the ends the very end is rounded over a bit and not flat.

The diameter is essentially 11/64”, but at least on my machine a 3/16” drill bit fits the hole.  Home Depot often stocks these longer Irwin drill bits - the shank of an ordinary drill bit is pretty short.

The transfer punch is 4.25mm and would also work well.

I ran a file across the original and it’s harder than a nail, but not by much.   The shank of a box store drill bit or the shank of a Harbor Freight transfer punch are very close - I’d think they are all pretty ordinary medium carbon steel that’s not heat treated.  The tip of the drill bit and transfer punch are hardened, but not the shank.

 

 

83C7BF60-9B14-4E98-B391-F0900C44240E.jpeg

35C313E2-C994-4080-BE99-21277772D115.jpeg

49654276-E3EF-4EB2-BA9A-B47C831E2DB8.jpeg

Don, Can’t thank you enough. If it doesn’t work I’ll assume it’s the other part as well!! Will update once I fix (hopefully).

 

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Glad to help!

I just thought of another 3/16” piece that’s easy to get locally.   These timberlock screws are sold everywhere and are a medium carbon steel.  I measured one and it’s just barely over 3/16” - you might have to spin it with a drill and sand paper to reduce it a tiny bit. 

2A82F5CB-57C4-4211-8537-DD5667FC27E8.jpeg

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1 hour ago, DonInReno said:

Glad to help!

I just thought of another 3/16” piece that’s easy to get locally.   These timberlock screws are sold everywhere and are a medium carbon steel.  I measured one and it’s just barely over 3/16” - you might have to spin it with a drill and sand paper to reduce it a tiny bit. 

2A82F5CB-57C4-4211-8537-DD5667FC27E8.jpeg

I had a 11/64 drill bit and messed with it a bit. It doesn’t do anything at all so my guess is the other part needs replacing as well. I’ve ordered one, so I’ll see how it goes when I get it

 

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On 2/12/2023 at 12:52 PM, DonInReno said:

The pin (#20) goes in the hole - in there is a doohickey that’s moved in or out by the lift of the presser foot.   I have two 11w155s and both of these pins are slightly different lengths - it doesn’t matter much as long as it fits the hole and moves the transfer lever.

Pin #11 is normally the one that gets altered for proper tension release, but transfer lever #17 can be slightly bent, although changing pin length is pretty easy.

The trick is to get the length of the pin so it opens the tension disks only when presser lift lever is fully open, but keeps thread tension when he presser foot is partially lifted to turn the leather. 
 

If the doohickey inside the head does not move with the presser foot lifter, there is often a broken tab on the doohickey and it has to be replaced.  Unfortunately it’s pretty involved to get it replaced, but it’s not an uncommon failure.

 

Don after all your help, I Was hoping to have a positive update for you, but I’m struggling. Got my parts in and watched the video a bunch of times. But not I cannot get the outside pressure foot to lift much and all and cannot figure out what the hell im doing wrong! Prior to my disassembly it moved up and down just fine. More to come if I figure it out. Any thoughts? Would love to hear them!

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Well, here’s one of my 111w155 as the presser foot lift lever is operated.  Is something hitting and preventing the full range of motion, or it’s just not lifting as high as it did?

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Also, here’s some good links to military manuals.   The one describes total disassembly and assembly of the 111w155, but it’s pretty basic and doesn’t expand much on adjustments or explain why different adjustments are made.

 

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On 2/21/2023 at 3:18 PM, chefben4 said:

Don after all your help, I Was hoping to have a positive update for you, but I’m struggling. Got my parts in and watched the video a bunch of times.

Just getting the parts installed is a major win!  It must be something simple - there’s not much in there.  

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Thanks again for all your help Don! I dropped it off the other day to an older gentleman that has been repairing industrial machines for 55 years. I figured since it’s my first machine and I’m struggling it was best to have him do an overhaul. He’s also going to show me some tips! again, I’m very grateful you’ve taken so much time out to help!

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13 hours ago, chefben4 said:

Thanks again for all your help Don! I dropped it off the other day to an older gentleman that has been repairing industrial machines for 55 years. I figured since it’s my first machine and I’m struggling it was best to have him do an overhaul. He’s also going to show me some tips! again, I’m very grateful you’ve taken so much time out to help!

That’s not a bad thing - nothing wrong with having it looked at.   Let us know what turns out to be the issue!

Glad to help!

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