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Everything posted by Michiel

  1. You will need a smaller pulley on your motor to slow down your machine….(in the title you mentioned a large one)
  2. When you remove the inner foot of a triple feed machine you wil have a needle feed machine. You will need an other type of outer foot (or roller foot as is in this kit) but to work good you need also an other set of feed dogs and needle plate its not clear for me if the sent you only the roller foot or also the other parts
  3. I usually use a small nail for that which I cut to size
  4. I would look for a service manual and follow al the steps to set it up in the right order (so not try only to solve one problem but go trough the manual step by step) by doing that you will and up with a well adjusted machine working like it was when it left the factory https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/fileadmin/dag/Media/Downloads/269/S_269.pdf
  5. Is this similar to the brother LZ-B652? (The early sailrite) That is a very nice zig zag machine With most zig zag machines the hook is too early at the left sticht and late at the right stitch the hook of this machine goes a little bit faster when making the right stitch and slower on the left one (you can see the mechanisme at work on the underside of the machine) its very helpful with this 12 mm stich it doesnot have the walking foot but i know this machine and the new original sailrite: the vintage brother has much more quality
  6. I would start with this suggestion …. and otherwise get the needle bar rocker frame out so you can see if the needle bar is bent sometimes if you take something out you discover what caused the problem or, if not, when you clean everything and put it back sometimes the problem is solved (or not)
  7. If your needle or needle bar is not bent, my gues is the frame your needle is in is not in the right position. The frame can taken out so when it is loose or not 100 % in the right position or angle the needle does not meet de needle hole in the middle I Think its called the needle bar rocker frame regards, michiel
  8. I think the pfaff 437 has a subclass with some kind of walking foot (and it is a zig zag) but its not a sailmaker or something like that…
  9. That is an interesting part (the adjustable stop) i have never seen this one before does someone have (or can make) better pictures of it so i can see the complete design? regards michiel
  10. College sewing in london and sometimes armastore.eu sometimes i am lucky when i google the parts number did you find a parts manual online? college sewing has them on their website: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-books/durkopp-adler-parts-books.html
  11. It can be done but involves more work and costs You need to replace the complete hook assembly and to make it fit grind away some steel from te machine and you have to replace te takeup lever The price difference between the two is not so much that all this effort is considered worth it (unless you like to tinker with old sewing machines) if you search on this forum you would find more about it (i believe) i have several adler’s 67 and 167 and think they are both great machines (and you only need big bobbins for long runs)
  12. I think that the 167 has other (bigger) screws on the hook assembly (and cap) than the 67 so if your bobbins are about 21,8 mm you need an adler 67 bobbin cap (or screws and spring)
  13. No its the other way, the bobbins of an adler 67 are smaller I think that you machine might have the smaller hook assembly and is technical an adler / chandler 67. The bobbin of a 67 is about 21,8 mm (the cap is hard to measure because of the tensionspring but i measure about 25,5) the bobbin of a 167 is about 26 mm thats why i asked your bobbin seize…
  14. What is the size of your bobbins? (the 167 and 67 are the same machines except for the bobbin size…)
  15. I often start with some small test pieces to see what works best To keep the pieces in place while sewing: for me a stapler sometimes works (between the sewing line and the edge so i can pass them while sewing and than remove the staples afterwards)
  16. I donot think you need to get the compleet cover under the arm if you can fold the edge a little upwards you ca stitch it while you keep most of the cover in the vertical plane left from the arm (and turn it slowly round) but you need a free arm anyway (think i could do it with a adler 69 or a pfaff 335 Difficult to explain with words anyway what i should do is try to follow the stich with my machine (without sewing) just to see if i can make it most of the times you discover you can fold en turn the leather or otherstuf more than you thought regards michiel
  17. An alternative in the same price class could be the adler 220 its a flatbed but has triple transport. (And is as vintage as the 105-64) An affordable free arm machine with triple transport for heavy thread is difficult to find in europe …. regards, michiel
  18. For canvas an adler 67 , 167 or 267 will do (best with subclass 373)
  19. I made a “new” foot for a a machine with a rare seize by cutting off the upper part off a more standard foot and doing some welding and grinding (in my case i made a combination of the upper part from one foot and the lower part of another one) It did not look very appealing because i did not bother grinding of the weld but it worked perfect (I did not take a photo and do not have it here at the moment)
  20. It stil keeps me wondering…. Here is some one arguing sewing machines have theire orientation because of hand cranking (by right handed people), but since we have motors now, the normal machines are better for left handed people. in that way the left stand sewing machines might be made to enable (right handed) operators to use theire right hand to handle the leather better. (I think, as a right handed person i would prefer a left stand cilinderarm better than a normal one) (any way : i stil think operating the reverse handle is not that difficult that its the reason to mirror a sewing machine, it is what you do with both hands while sewing) https://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/left-handed-sewing-machines i also noted that they make post bed machines with the needle on the right side of the post (i thin’ they call it a leftpost sewing machine) in stead of the left side but never bothered making the complete post bed machine in mirror
  21. The original question keeps me wondering…. i hope someone finds an real source with the answer i looked in the old sewing machine books i have but nobody thought it necessary to explain apparently it was obvious Why they were made
  22. Is it possible that its just the photo which is Mirrored (by accident)?
  23. Hi Nick, i do have the same machine (and never found a service manual But timing this machine is like other sewing machines: you do not need to know an needle bar height you can do it by turning the wheel to raise the needle bar ca 2 mm from the most lower position than adjust the hook so that the hook meets the needle than adjust the needle bar height so that the hook point is in the middle of the scarf (the space above the needle hole) because it is an zig zag machine you need to pay a little extra attention because the hook is early on the left side of the zig zag and late on the right side You can time it with the zig zag off and the needle in the middle and after wards check with zig zag on the widest setting to see if it is timed well for both sides but what i sometimes do is time it on the left position in a way that the scarf is just above the needle hole hope this helps kind regards michiel
  24. It is an interesting question (i think in that days it was so obvious for the craftsman that nobody bothered to mention it) But if it was for the convenience of left handed workers i would think they would also make other sewing machines leftsided (but since the forced people to write right handed that times i do not think they would do so much effort to construct special versions of a sewing machine for them) Since the big brands do not sell them anymore (as far as i know) i think it has to do with the fact these machines mostly had no upper and needle feed: This is my experience: when i make denim trousers for my self i try to sew the left and right side the same way because the transport with only feed dogs is not optimal. i usualy start with the most critical part (the crotch for example or the upper part) so if the feeding of the two parts is not even you will not notice it too much when sewing the other side i turn the cloth so i still can start sewing from the same point on a flatbed with a mostly flat design that works fine. With a 3D object (and two parts which have not the same form) i am glad two have needle and upper feed so i can start sewing without losing length on the upper part … si i think its possible they made left and right versions because when making leather 3D objects it mattered where the started sewing … but these are just my two cents it would be interesting to have a left and right version of the same machine and do some trials (with left and right handed persons making leather trousers, jackets etc.)
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