Michiel

Thinking about it: when you use thick leather a cilinder arm is great and there are not much advantages with a post bed. But for thin stuff a post bed is more versatile in my opinion. I think that’s why most members here are for cilinder arms (and they are right) It depends on the material and the design of your projects

A postbed is great for top stitching bags I have cilinder arm and post bed machines , but when making bag’s I always use my postbed and hardly a cilinderarm

I tried to 3- print them worked but i was not 100 % satisfied the Bernina favourite (household machine) shares the same hook and has the same cams inside I bought one for the hook and finally pulled the cams out: they are the same as the old bernina 217 cams the global has an other size cambox and cams i believe

Nice machine! i looked last week for someone: college sewing sells extra wide feed dogs, needle plate and foot for this machine (just in case you want an extra wide zig zag and you do not already have them)

With triple feed and needle feed machines very often the side “play” from the needlebar can be removed very easy see the picture the part my screwdriver is on should move a little bit to the needlebar assembly the screws are on the backside do not make it too tight ! (A litle bit of play is better for the machine)

You will need a smaller pulley on your motor to slow down your machine….(in the title you mentioned a large one)

When you remove the inner foot of a triple feed machine you wil have a needle feed machine. You will need an other type of outer foot (or roller foot as is in this kit) but to work good you need also an other set of feed dogs and needle plate its not clear for me if the sent you only the roller foot or also the other parts

I usually use a small nail for that which I cut to size

I would look for a service manual and follow al the steps to set it up in the right order (so not try only to solve one problem but go trough the manual step by step) by doing that you will and up with a well adjusted machine working like it was when it left the factory https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/fileadmin/dag/Media/Downloads/269/S_269.pdf

Is this similar to the brother LZ-B652? (The early sailrite) That is a very nice zig zag machine With most zig zag machines the hook is too early at the left sticht and late at the right stitch the hook of this machine goes a little bit faster when making the right stitch and slower on the left one (you can see the mechanisme at work on the underside of the machine) its very helpful with this 12 mm stich it doesnot have the walking foot but i know this machine and the new original sailrite: the vintage brother has much more quality

I would start with this suggestion …. and otherwise get the needle bar rocker frame out so you can see if the needle bar is bent sometimes if you take something out you discover what caused the problem or, if not, when you clean everything and put it back sometimes the problem is solved (or not)

If your needle or needle bar is not bent, my gues is the frame your needle is in is not in the right position. The frame can taken out so when it is loose or not 100 % in the right position or angle the needle does not meet de needle hole in the middle I Think its called the needle bar rocker frame regards, michiel

I think the pfaff 437 has a subclass with some kind of walking foot (and it is a zig zag) but its not a sailmaker or something like that…

Thank you! this will do

That is an interesting part (the adjustable stop) i have never seen this one before does someone have (or can make) better pictures of it so i can see the complete design? regards michiel

College sewing in london and sometimes armastore.eu sometimes i am lucky when i google the parts number did you find a parts manual online? college sewing has them on their website: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-books/durkopp-adler-parts-books.html

It can be done but involves more work and costs You need to replace the complete hook assembly and to make it fit grind away some steel from te machine and you have to replace te takeup lever The price difference between the two is not so much that all this effort is considered worth it (unless you like to tinker with old sewing machines) if you search on this forum you would find more about it (i believe) i have several adler’s 67 and 167 and think they are both great machines (and you only need big bobbins for long runs)

I think that the 167 has other (bigger) screws on the hook assembly (and cap) than the 67 so if your bobbins are about 21,8 mm you need an adler 67 bobbin cap (or screws and spring)

No its the other way, the bobbins of an adler 67 are smaller I think that you machine might have the smaller hook assembly and is technical an adler / chandler 67. The bobbin of a 67 is about 21,8 mm (the cap is hard to measure because of the tensionspring but i measure about 25,5) the bobbin of a 167 is about 26 mm thats why i asked your bobbin seize…

What is the size of your bobbins? (the 167 and 67 are the same machines except for the bobbin size…)

I often start with some small test pieces to see what works best To keep the pieces in place while sewing: for me a stapler sometimes works (between the sewing line and the edge so i can pass them while sewing and than remove the staples afterwards)

I donot think you need to get the compleet cover under the arm if you can fold the edge a little upwards you ca stitch it while you keep most of the cover in the vertical plane left from the arm (and turn it slowly round) but you need a free arm anyway (think i could do it with a adler 69 or a pfaff 335 Difficult to explain with words anyway what i should do is try to follow the stich with my machine (without sewing) just to see if i can make it most of the times you discover you can fold en turn the leather or otherstuf more than you thought regards michiel

An alternative in the same price class could be the adler 220 its a flatbed but has triple transport. (And is as vintage as the 105-64) An affordable free arm machine with triple transport for heavy thread is difficult to find in europe …. regards, michiel

For canvas an adler 67 , 167 or 267 will do (best with subclass 373)

I made a “new” foot for a a machine with a rare seize by cutting off the upper part off a more standard foot and doing some welding and grinding (in my case i made a combination of the upper part from one foot and the lower part of another one) It did not look very appealing because i did not bother grinding of the weld but it worked perfect (I did not take a photo and do not have it here at the moment)