Michiel

Acording the advertiser its a 63 (not 73) than it should be bottum and needle feed. all the adlers i bought (that old) were not dificult to get sewing verry well. this machine is for sale for some months now because he was asking to much (in my opinion) (if i were you i would sent him an email and offer 100 euro) regards michiel

Last week i made a verry simple bag (a projectbag for my wife) and wanted some folded leather around it (to keep them open) i dohave some hemmers but they were nof big enough i did try to fold the leather with a steam iron and that did work out verry well in this case the leather was nof verry thick, i did use steam but did not make the leather complete wett and after it had the right form a waited about 15 minutes and than use sewed it (without glue) i donot know if this works with al kinds of leather but in this case it worked (i am not verry experienced with leatherwork)

Check the timing of your machine (if you never did that: take a look on other posts and watch what happens in your machine....)

Quick meaning that it was temporarily (but nothing is as permanent as temporarily

If you mount it that way you will be able to turn your machine backwards (which is good) but you have to change the rotation direction of the servomotor (just for the record, i am sure you already know) i did the same for one of my flatbeds. here is the quick device i made for the footpedal:

Do you mean this photo? (i saved it because i was working on a "transporteble industrial")

Orderd new decals here last year https://www.singerdecals.com/

Hello Arz, did you see this discussion last days: i have the same machine myself and normaly run v92 because of the small bobbins Think 138 will do did you see the specifications on the leaflett ? http://sew24.blogspot.com/p/downloads.html

In the aviation manuals they explain some adjustments on the 111w155 http://navyaviation.tpub.com/10330/css/Timing-The-111-W-155-Machine-10330_53-53.htm

Thank you! i also found an servicemanual since the last post about this machine on this forum the adler website did put some more manuals on their dowload page Its too big to upload but here is the link https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/220/S_220.pdf

Its is almost the same as the singer 144w, so yes its dsigned more for canvas than leather but its strong, has triple feed and takes needles 200 so it will do till i find something else

Wen you push the left pedal the machine goes in reverse and wen you push it further it takes the other pedal also so you can sew in reverse with only pushing one pedal

Last weekend went camping in germany with my oldest son and brought home an (new to me) adler 220 (was watching it for months so it ended as an bargain) its working but i can't wait to clean and service it etc.... all my machines are in good working order and i use them (sometimes) but i am afraid i ended up to be also an vintage industrial sewingmachine adict (the good news is that i donot need to store them at home i know its not an heavy leather stitcher but want to use it also for leather so i think i will change the needle system it now is 7x23 but there are no leather needles for it (as far as i am aware) needle system 328 is just 0,8 mm shorter so i think that would not be a probelm (i changed my adler 166 the other way from 328 to 7x23)

Just my impression: see the photo of the tensionunit It looks like the tread is not between the two plates where the spring is but behind them. i do not know this machine but to me it looks like it should be between them? but its early in the morning here and i might be totally wrong...(if others say its threaded ok ignore this)

I am working on an sewing machine were all the nickel corroded away from the neelde plate etc. i would like to nickel plate it again i can buy a set to do it myself: https://www.frost.co.uk/brilliant-nickel-plating-modules.html are there members who did nickel plate parts? difficult? Results? They also sell a set for "cold blackening" i orderd that anyway to try on some other parts https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-metal-blacking-solutions.html regards, michiel

Sold

Did you try the "user manual" for the adler 68 ? (From the second link) it is called user manual but it contains all lot of service information which you normaly find in a service manual (timing , adjusting feeddogs , hook etc) i just used it this evening for my adler postbed (put a new hook in it and had to shift the post to get the distance between the needle and the hook right) regards, michiel

And Here is the link to all the old adler manuals http://sew24.blogspot.nl/p/downloads.html

Its called manual but its more than that....

That's a nice trick, i learn something every day on this forum, thank you so much for al your posts! (4332 says your profile)

Thanks for looking. the cap should be about 48 x 34 mm the hight should not matter much... kind regards, michiel ps here's an photo i found on the internet , i think it should look like this....

And some photos

So i "found" an adler 68. doesnot need it really but it would fit in one of my adler tables and its nice to try to get it working after some cleaning it turns light, the timing seems to be alright too. some parts of the hook assembly are missing but that is the same as the adler 67 so i will be able to buy one (new or used) the cap wich protects the hook is more a challenge...(part 068 00 473 0) i will have to make one myself unless someone has an "parts machine" and is willing to sell that part. annyone ? I live in europe but have realatives is the usa so have an postadres in the states too. its an adler 68 2S U2 the cap is "shorter than the one wich is from the 68 2s ... i am aware its a wild guess but who knows.... regards, michiel

They seem to have an pfaff 195 (user) manuall: http://www.sewingmanuals.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/Pfaff_Industrial.htm (but did not try to buy one myself) regards, michiel