Sewing machine suggestions

[Spicytacoman]

Looking for recommendations for best bang for the buck under $1500. Im currently making leather goods no thicker than 1/4 mostly wallets at 3/16-1/4. Making totes and clutches not nearly as thick. 

I am currently looking at the consew 206rb-5 and the consew 1206rb-1.

Leaning towards the 1206rb-1 since it is cheaper and has the servo motor already. This is my first "real" sewing machine and going without the servo may be too fast for me.

Also, if there are any recommendations that are cheaper that are highly recommended for my work criteria I would be happy to take a look too!.

Please no recommendations over $1500 that is almost uncomfortable already for me :)

 

[Burkhardt]

You want the best bang for a buck, get a cylinder arm. It will do everything you want easier than a flatbed. And it will keep it's value really close to what you pay for one.

[Spicytacoman]

9 hours ago, Burkhardt said:

You want the best bang for a buck, get a cylinder arm. It will do everything you want easier than a flatbed. And it will keep it's value really close to what you pay for one.

That is a fantastic deal! Wow. I hope he isn't too far. Still need more recommendations in case I cant buy from him but that is certainly a fantastic deal!

[MtlBiker]

13 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

Looking for recommendations for best bang for the buck under $1500. Im currently making leather goods no thicker than 1/4 mostly wallets at 3/16-1/4. Making totes and clutches not nearly as thick. 

I am currently looking at the consew 206rb-5 and the consew 1206rb-1.

Leaning towards the 1206rb-1 since it is cheaper and has the servo motor already. This is my first "real" sewing machine and going without the servo may be too fast for me.

Also, if there are any recommendations that are cheaper that are highly recommended for my work criteria I would be happy to take a look too!.

Please no recommendations over $1500 that is almost uncomfortable already for me

 

For the price you're talking, those are new machines, right?  If so, what makes you think the 206RB-5 doesn't have a servo motor?  I bought my 206RB-5 NEW, with table and servo motor for $1,300 CDN a couple of years ago.  That translates to under a thousand bucks US at current exchange rates. 

Personally I'd pick the 206RB-5 over the 1206 mainly because it has a safety clutch which could save some serious repairs if the machine jams.  And I don't like the automatic oiling either, mainly because at the relatively slow speeds most of us working with leather use, the pump wouldn't be as efficient.  And properly oiling the machine is really fairly simple.  Plus the 206 is a lot more common and if you're considering a used machine, probably a lot easier to find.  Just make sure the machine is in good working condition and hasn't been beaten up on a high production factory.

[Spicytacoman]

1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

For the price you're talking, those are new machines, right?  If so, what makes you think the 206RB-5 doesn't have a servo motor?  I bought my 206RB-5 NEW, with table and servo motor for $1,300 CDN a couple of years ago.  That translates to under a thousand bucks US at current exchange rates. 

Personally I'd pick the 206RB-5 over the 1206 mainly because it has a safety clutch which could save some serious repairs if the machine jams.  And I don't like the automatic oiling either, mainly because at the relatively slow speeds most of us working with leather use, the pump wouldn't be as efficient.  And properly oiling the machine is really fairly simple.  Plus the 206 is a lot more common and if you're considering a used machine, probably a lot easier to find.  Just make sure the machine is in good working condition and hasn't been beaten up on a high production factory.

Right im trying to stay in the new section  Because I don't really know what I'm doing with these sewing machine so I wanna make sure I get something that starts off strong. That cobra 26 though!!

[kgg]

3 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

Because I don't really know what I'm doing with these sewing machine so I wanna make sure I get something that starts off strong.

Have you visited a industrial sewing machine dealer? Having local support to help you get familiar with a machine maybe of benefit if you have very little experience, they may have a good used machine that would work for you needs and you would be able to test drive probably different machines before you purchase.

I would suggest buying a cylinder bed machine with a flatbed table attachment. You can then have the option of doing items not only items best done on flatbed but also items best done and sometimes only can be done on a cylinder bed machine.

You may have too either increase your budget or purchase a good used machine.

Buy Once, Cry Once.

kgg

[Spicytacoman]

Im already crying with the thought of spending $1500 haha.

Thing is,, I'm not really selling  much at the moment because the amount of time it takes to stitch things brings my price up past what others are offering. Thats why Im considering a machine to be reasonably priced and make more per hour essentially.

So it feels like a shot in the foot not having sales and investing even more lol. 

[kgg]

8 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

I'm not really selling  much at the moment because the amount of time it takes to stitch things brings my price up past what others are offering.

If you want to level up the playing field with your competition and gain more sales based on price you need equipment to reduce the main cost, Labor. To do that you need to invest in equipment, sewing machine, clicker press, burnisher etc.

Lets assume the quality of your work is as good or better then the competitions. Lets assume a couple of other things the labor cost is $20 per hour, the material cost to make a wallet is $5 and the selling price is 2 times the cost to make the wallet. There are two fronts that you have to become competitive in:

i) The time it takes to be ready for sewing. If you and your competition have similar wallets that sells well they are probably using a clicker press and produce the pieces for their wallet in less then two minutes where as you are hand cutting the same pieces for a similar wallet and it takes 15 minutes. In an hour they have 30 or more wallet pieces ready to be sewn and you have 4. Their cost per wallet is $0.67 and yours is $5.00.

ii) The time it takes to sew. It takes your competition say 15 minutes to sew the wallet and it takes you 60 minutes to hand-stitch one. Your item costs $20 and theirs is $5. Your competition can sew all day long with very little fatigue day in day out. I don't think you would want to try doing that by hand.

Summary:

Competitions wallet costs: $5.00 in material and $5.67 in labor for a total cost of $10.67. Selling price: 2 x $10.67 or $21.34

Your wallet costs: $5.00 in material and $25.00 in labor for a total cost of $30.00.

Your competition could sell the similar wallet for less then what it costs you to make it and still make a profit.

Ask yourself would you pay the extra. If two items are of equal quality most customers will chose the one costing less. You have to either have a better item or be at least at a similar price point.

There is and will always be a market for items made totally by hand but the general population can't appreciate or if they do they don't want to spent the extra dollars.

Also since you are hand-stitching what size of thread do you want to use in the machine? This will also be a factor in selecting a machine. Most upholstery class 1541 flatbeds can handle V138, most class 1341 cylinder beds can handle V207 while the class 441 can handle V415. The totally manual machines like Cowboy Outlaw ($1400) can handle up to V346 and the Tippmann Boss ($999) can handle up to V415.

kgg

Edited April 13, 2023 by kgg

[Spicytacoman]

20 minutes ago, kgg said:

If you want to level up the playing field with your competition and gain more sales based on price you need equipment to reduce the main cost, Labor. To do that you need to invest in equipment, sewing machine, clicker press, burnisher etc.

Lets assume the quality of your work is as good or better then the competitions. Lets assume a couple of other things the labor cost is $20 per hour, the material cost to make a wallet is $5 and the selling price is 2 times the cost to make the wallet. There are two fronts that you have to become competitive in:

i) The time it takes to be ready for sewing. If you and your competition have similar wallets that sells well they are probably using a clicker press and produce the pieces for their wallet in less then two minutes where as you are hand cutting the same pieces for a similar wallet and it takes 15 minutes. In an hour they have 30 or more wallet pieces ready to be sewn and you have 4. Their cost per wallet is $0.67 and yours is $5.00.

ii) The time it takes to sew. It takes your competition say 15 minutes to sew the wallet and it takes you 60 minutes to hand-stitch one. Your item costs $20 and theirs is $5. Your competition can sew all day long with very little fatigue day in day out. I don't think you would want to try doing that by hand.

Summary:

Competitions wallet costs: $5.00 in material and $5.67 in labor for a total cost of $10.67. Selling price: 2 x $10.67 or $21.34

Your wallet costs: $5.00 in material and $25.00 in labor for a total cost of $30.00.

Your competition could sell the similar wallet for less then what it costs you to make it and still make a profit.

Ask yourself would you pay the extra. If two items are of equal quality most customers will chose the one costing less. You have to either have a better item or be at least at a similar price point.

There is and will always be a market for items made totally by hand but the general population can't appreciate or if they do they don't want to spent the extra dollars.

Also since you are hand-stitching what size of thread do you want to use in the machine? This will also be a factor in selecting a machine. Most upholstery class 1541 flatbeds can handle V138, most class 1341 cylinder beds can handle V207 while the class 441 can handle V415. The totally manual machines like Cowboy Outlaw ($1400) can handle up to V346 and the Tippmann Boss ($999) can handle up to V415.

kgg

That is what im saying! I definetly noticed. I think I have great products but most people are looking for style and low cost. I have the style just not the low cost because I can't physically lower the labor.

This is why I am trying to get something to help lower it. No guarantee of sales but will help appeal to the lower cost audience.

I think I will be using #138 for right now since that is what I have on hand at the moment. 

I may just get the 1206rb since toledo can ship it for around $1550. I can't find anything that can compete or anyone that will say so otherwise for me work environment :p

 

Edited April 13, 2023 by Spicytacoman

[kgg]

13 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

This is why I am trying to get something to help lower it.

Just adding a sewing machine that can do your items will cut your labor cost. In my example your cost would drop to $15.00 rather then $30 which would give you a fighting chance at attracting sales.

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

4 minutes ago, kgg said:

Also since you are hand-stitching what size of thread do you want to use in the machine? This will also be a factor in selecting a machine. Most upholstery class 1541 flatbeds can handle V138, most class 1341 cylinder beds can handle V207 while the class 441 can handle V415. The totally manual machines like Cowboy Outlaw ($1400) can handle up to V346 and the Tippmann Boss ($999) can handle up to V415.

We who are already skilled leather sewers should feel an obligation to inform the newbies to sewing machines that the larger the size of the thread, the harder it is to hide the lockstitch knots. This is not intuitive to a non-sewer. Lets take a for-instance...

Assume that the thickness of an assembled wallet that has a 2 ounce interior and a 5-6 ounce carved back is between 7 and 8 ounces. If you lace that wallet it will cover the edges  and fill the holes to the degree of your lacing skill. You could get 90+% coverage if you're really good. Instead, to save time and keep the selling price down, you hand sew the wallet with two needles doing a running saddle stitch. Each needle sews both on top and on the bottom. The stitches will appear balanced no matter how thick the thread is. This is because it is just a over-under running stitch. There are no "kmot" to conceal.

Now, when you take the same wallet to a lockstitch sewing machine, which means 99% of all industrial sewing machines capable of sewing a wallet, the top thread must go down and pick up the bottom (bobbin) thread and overlap it, then pull it up inside the layers. This overlap creates what appears to be knots inside the needle holes. If the thread is thin, it will fold much tighter than the thread used in hand stitching. The overlapping knots will only take  a fraction of the depth. However, if the person making the wallet wants a bolder thread appearance, approaching that of a hand sewn wallet, he or she will run into the fact that the lockstitch knots will probably be visible on the top or bottom of the needle holes. If you were to consult a needle and thread chart, you would see that in order to get the same top appearance as a hand sewn (two needle) sewing job, you'd need #346, or 415, or even 554 thread. This thread is usually bonded nylon, or bonded polyester. This bonded thread doesn't bend as neatly as linen thread and the lockstitch knots will look horrible!

You may be wondering why we don't just run linen hand sewing thread through the sewing machine so it looks closer to a hand sewn wallet. It's because, with few exceptions, modern lockstitch machines cannot properly handle linen thread, especially pre-waxed thread. You can experiment with every setting and you'll probably end up shredding the thread and getting wax flaking off through the needle's eye, thread guides, bobbin case and shuttle, and the tensioners..

Practically, a machine sewn wallet that is between 7 and 8 ounces total thickness will have to be done using no larger than #138 bonded nylon, or bonded polyester thread. The tensions and thread paths will have to be clean and carefully adjusted to hide the knots. This #138 thread is about 1/2 the diameter of 6 cord linen sewing thread. The "knots" may be as large as .04 inches, or .828mm.

If you read the chart I linked to you'll see that #138 bonded thread has about 22 pounds breaking strength. Practically though, that number may be as low as 16 pounds due to the stress and friction encountered when sewing leather.

Conclusion: If you want a bold thread appearance, hand sew with 5 or 6 cord waxed linen thread. If you want to save time, machine sew with #138 bonded thread. If time doesn't matter, lace the wallet. Calculate what your time is worth and charge accordingly. But, don't think you can compete against low wage sewers in poorer countries who perform the same operation dozens of times every day. They are faster than Damnit or they're replaced by somebody else who is faster.

[Spicytacoman]

8 hours ago, kgg said:

Just adding a sewing machine that can do your items will cut your labor cost. In my example your cost would drop to $15.00 rather then $30 which would give you a fighting chance at attracting sales.

kgg

Bingo! im trying plus im not very fast qt saddle stitching and my results aren't always clean. 2 birds 1 stone hehe

[Spicytacoman]

8 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

 

Conclusion: If you want a bold thread appearance, hand sew with 5 or 6 cord waxed linen thread. If you want to save time, machine sew with #138 bonded thread. If time doesn't matter, lace the wallet. Calculate what your time is worth and charge accordingly. But, don't think you can compete against low wage sewers in poorer countries who perform the same operation dozens of times every day. They are faster than Damnit or they're replaced by somebody else who is faster.

That was a true pleasure to read. In the beginning I never gave much though to thread size and now realize how important it is to thicker items and machines as well.

It is just a shame the entry points for leatherworking  is a bit intimidating but it'll clear up some of the issues im having right now.

[MtlBiker]

10 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

I may just get the 1206rb since toledo can ship it for around $1550. I can't find anything that can compete or anyone that will say so otherwise for me work environment :p

Please research further!  I really don't think a 1206rb would be better than the 206RB-5.  As far as I know, the 1206 is more of a high-speed garment machine and the oil pump is most efficient at way higher speeds than most leather sewers would use.  So that's not an advantage.  Also without a safety clutch you really run a risk of an expensive repair when (probably not IF) the machine jams up.  And while I'm not in the US, based on what the machines sell for here, I'm pretty sure you would be able to find a NEW 206RB-5 for about $1,000 US including table and servo motor.  (I paid CDN $1300 two years ago for a brand new one.)

Also as others have suggested, a cylinder arm machine, especially if you can get an aluminum flatbed table attachment for it, is probably your most versatile option.

Good luck!
 

[Spicytacoman]

38 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Please research further!  I really don't think a 1206rb would be better than the 206RB-5.  As far as I know, the 1206 is more of a high-speed garment machine and the oil pump is most efficient at way higher speeds than most leather sewers would use.  So that's not an advantage.  Also without a safety clutch you really run a risk of an expensive repair when (probably not IF) the machine jams up.  And while I'm not in the US, based on what the machines sell for here, I'm pretty sure you would be able to find a NEW 206RB-5 for about $1,000 US including table and servo motor.  (I paid CDN $1300 two years ago for a brand new one.)

Also as others have suggested, a cylinder arm machine, especially if you can get an aluminum flatbed table attachment for it, is probably your most versatile option.

Good luck!
 

Well toledo sewing machine sells it for $1449. With shipping to a warehouse near orlando being an extra $250 it comes out to $1700. If I want it shipped to my home it is $400 for shipping.

I wish it were as cheap as $1000 haha.

[MtlBiker]

52 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

Well toledo sewing machine sells it for $1449. With shipping to a warehouse near orlando being an extra $250 it comes out to $1700. If I want it shipped to my home it is $400 for shipping.

I wish it were as cheap as $1000 haha.

That's crazy expensive!  That makes it very close to $2,000 Canadian.  It's hard to believe that the machine is so much more expensive in the US than here in Canada.  Usually it's the other way around.  Out of curiosity, have you checked with any other dealers?  There's no dealer in Florida close to you?  Toledo has a stellar reputation but...  I'd check around.

[Spicytacoman]

1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

That's crazy expensive!  That makes it very close to $2,000 Canadian.  It's hard to believe that the machine is so much more expensive in the US than here in Canada.  Usually it's the other way around.  Out of curiosity, have you checked with any other dealers?  There's no dealer in Florida close to you?  Toledo has a stellar reputation but...  I'd check around.

I tried calling around for 3 weeks but couldn't find any that have industrial style machines. One shop stated there was one in Orlando called Sunstate Industrial but they shut down the business awhile back...

I'm really torn, I'd hate to buy a machine and not sell but I also love the hobby so don't think I will stop making for at least personal use, as for selling I feel like my products are look great but just not in the right price range.

Debating on the whole stitching pony idea to speed up the saddle stitch until I made some sales but my stitching still isn't 100% professional looking. Which is why I'm trying to get something cheaper if possible but of course want it to last. 

Grown man about to start tearing up and crying over here lol joking.

[Garyak]

You’re leaning toward new, and a $1500 budget. Unless you’re a drivable distance from the machine you’re gonna buy, comes the first bang for your buck. $500 off the top for shipping, order it from a middleman (any place besides the main plug) they’re gonna grab their cut, they ain’t selling somebody else’s machines for free. 500$ shipping, middleman clip you for their fee ???.  When it arrives if you ship, gonna slap you with a 75$ lift gate fee, if you let’em. You got about 800$ for a machine now. That’s estimated in your favor. Most bang for your buck is keeping you ear to the area you live in, stalk sales pages, and hit estate sales. Be patient and you can find the machine you want at a favorable price… again, if you ship, don’t let’em tell ya it’s 75$ to drop the machine you bought and they  drove across country to your house in the street. I just laughed and hopped up in the truck and pushed the down button on the corded remote. Driver didn’t say a word, but he also took off before I could inspect my machine. It was all good tho. 

[Wizcrafts]

7 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

That's crazy expensive!  That makes it very close to $2,000 Canadian.  It's hard to believe that the machine is so much more expensive in the US than here in Canada.  Usually it's the other way around.  Out of curiosity, have you checked with any other dealers?  There's no dealer in Florida close to you?  Toledo has a stellar reputation but...  I'd check around.

I just did a price check on the Consew 206RB-5, complete, with a motor and table, delivered to a residential address with a lift gate. They all revolved around the $2000 to $2400 range. The prices under $2000 were either for the head only, or for delivery to a commercial address with a loading dock. The prices for the head only ranged from $1499, plus tax, to $1999, plus tax.

Some of the sellers are unlikely to offer any after the sale support. Personally, when I bought my first couple of sewing machines, I called the dealers multiple times with questions. One dealer who sold me a well used head only, refused to give free support and that was back in the mid to late 1980s. OTOH, when I bought a new machine, my calls were welcomed and gladly answered with all the answers to get me going again. This is something to bear in mind if one is buying their first industrial sewing machine and trying to shave dollars off the total price. You can shave yourself into the jackpot if you buy too cheaply. Or, you'll be begging for help from unpaid volunteers on here, or other forums, or groups.

Another thing to consider is that customers in Canada have a different trade agreement with Chinese made goods than we do in the USA. All Chinese imports are automatically hit with at least a 25% import tariff, in addition to any other duty , shipping, delivery, and State sales tax. Ebay and Amazon automatically add State sales tax to all purchases shipped to US addresses. I can't speak to the difference in purchasing power of a Canadian Dollar vs a US dollar. But, again, Canadian money paying for Chinese goods that aren't hit with the 25% import penalty are probably paying a better, or similar price, especially if the machine was already in stock and bought before any recent price increases, dollar declines, or duties.

[MtlBiker]

14 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I just did a price check on the Consew 206RB-5, complete, with a motor and table, delivered to a residential address with a lift gate. They all revolved around the $2000 to $2400 range. The prices under $2000 were either for the head only, or for delivery to a commercial address with a loading dock. The prices for the head only ranged from $1499, plus tax, to $1999, plus tax.

Some of the sellers are unlikely to offer any after the sale support. Personally, when I bought my first couple of sewing machines, I called the dealers multiple times with questions. One dealer who sold me a well used head only, refused to give free support and that was back in the mid to late 1980s. OTOH, when I bought a new machine, my calls were welcomed and gladly answered with all the answers to get me going again. This is something to bear in mind if one is buying their first industrial sewing machine and trying to shave dollars off the total price. You can shave yourself into the jackpot if you buy too cheaply. Or, you'll be begging for help from unpaid volunteers on here, or other forums, or groups.

Another thing to consider is that customers in Canada have a different trade agreement with Chinese made goods than we do in the USA. All Chinese imports are automatically hit with at least a 25% import tariff, in addition to any other duty , shipping, delivery, and State sales tax. Ebay and Amazon automatically add State sales tax to all purchases shipped to US addresses. I can't speak to the difference in purchasing power of a Canadian Dollar vs a US dollar. But, again, Canadian money paying for Chinese goods that aren't hit with the 25% import penalty are probably paying a better, or similar price, especially if the machine was already in stock and bought before any recent price increases, dollar declines, or duties.

For years and years we've (Canadians) become accustomed to things being much cheaper in the US than here in Canada even accounting for exchange rates, and I guess things have changed.  The import tariff you mentioned is probably a huge factor but I am still surprised to learn there's such a big difference in pricing between our two countries.  The difference seems to be almost double now.  Geez.

In my case with my machine, I didn't have to pay any shipping charges as the Canadian source is here in my city and I was able to drive there and pick it up myself.  With the head removed, the table fit in my SUV without problem.

I'm curious about how importing stuff like these machines works... does the machine come into North America directly to both Canada and the US, or does it go to the US (most common) and from there is shipped up to Canada.  In the case of Consew, it seems the North American office is in the US, and if machines go to the US first and are then shipped to Canada, I'd expect them to be much more expensive in Canada.  I mean, do the importers really keep machines destined for Canada in bonded warehouses without paying US import duties and tariffs and then ship them?  If not, I'd imagine they must pay the US fees which are then tacked onto the Canadian costs.  But for the price (when I bought) to be cheaper here in Canada than in the US, it would appear the machines come into Canada directly and not via the US.  Just curious.  Anyway this pricing difference has been an eye opener.

 

[Spicytacoman]

So with that being said I can get the 1206rb-1 for $1550 shipped. Would there be any other recommendations or this is as good as im going to get for what I can spend right now?

 

New that is. I dont think I want to go used and end up with something I font know how to fix just yet and have to waste time learning instead of stitching right away after assembly.

[kgg]

43 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

So with that being said I can get the 1206rb-1 for $1550 shipped. Would there be any other recommendations or this is as good as im going to get for what I can spend right now?

I would suggest you reconsider the Consew 206RB-5 rather then the 1206rb-1. The reason I am suggesting this is the 206RB-5 has a safety clutch system so when you jam up the hook/ shuttle you don't cause damage to internal parts. I think most people have at some point jammed a machine up. With a safety clutch you clear the jam, reset the clutch and you are back sewing. One simple jam on a machine without a safety clutch could and probably will cost you more then what you are saving on the initial price.

Don't buy a machine based on price alone. Buy the best machine for what you are planning on sewing. There is nothing worst then buying a machine, irregardless of price, that is not capable of doing what you want. Once you buy a machine you are typically stuck with it. I think most of us have been down that road. Those machines are soon replaced usually at a dollar loss.

kgg

 

 

[Spicytacoman]

4 hours ago, kgg said:

I would suggest you reconsider the Consew 206RB-5 rather then the 1206rb-1. The reason I am suggesting this is the 206RB-5 has a safety clutch system so when you jam up the hook/ shuttle you don't cause damage to internal parts. I think most people have at some point jammed a machine up. With a safety clutch you clear the jam, reset the clutch and you are back sewing. One simple jam on a machine without a safety clutch could and probably will cost you more then what you are saving on the initial price.

Don't buy a machine based on price alone. Buy the best machine for what you are planning on sewing. There is nothing worst then buying a machine, irregardless of price, that is not capable of doing what you want. Once you buy a machine you are typically stuck with it. I think most of us have been down that road. Those machines are soon replaced usually at a dollar loss.

kgg

 

 

Hey man, I appreciate your knowledge but you also need to consider that not everyone want or likes the idea of spending $2000 on a sewing machine especially when it might now pay off for them, I appreciate your feedback but you comment really isn't aligning with what "I" need. 

I'm already at a point where i don't want to spend this money and I'm being suggested things over my budget. It is really unsettling. and I get it but it isn't helping my situation.

Do you think that medium temper chrome tan at 14 oz is going to cause a jam? I don't sew veg tan that thick at the moment either.. I'm just curious. I'm an audiophile and have been down many rabbit holes of the next best but I've also tested things for less price that I would reconsider my opinion on things and would really like not to just splurge because a certain machine has so much headroom you can't mess up.

I also spoke with a couple repair shops that said the safety clutch can be a pain as it isn't so simple to reset after it engages and a lot of customers opt to take it out. Have you heard anything on that?

 

Edited April 14, 2023 by Spicytacoman

[AlZilla]

I've been following this and appreciate your situation. I understand completely the cash out of pocket situation and not wanting to buy a used machine. I've been quiet because the sewing machine sages here have all the information you need and I'm a rank amateur.

That said, I think you'll regret going with a flatbed over a cylinder arm. Maybe consider a Cowboy Outllaw. Manual and not as sexy as some of the other options, but it fits your budget and sews the size thread you need.  Maybe those totes and clutches could be a little thin, you'd have to investigate.

[Spicytacoman]

1 hour ago, AlZilla said:

I've been following this and appreciate your situation. I understand completely the cash out of pocket situation and not wanting to buy a used machine. I've been quiet because the sewing machine sages here have all the information you need and I'm a rank amateur.

That said, I think you'll regret going with a flatbed over a cylinder arm. Maybe consider a Cowboy Outllaw. Manual and not as sexy as some of the other options, but it fits your budget and sews the size thread you need.  Maybe those totes and clutches could be a little thin, you'd have to investigate.

I appreciate it. I want suggestions and if I can have a machine for my budget I'd rather someone say "hey you're not going to be happy with a machine for your work because xyz..." we can always spend more money but I find it really hard to believe I have to spend 2k... When I first started looking I was considering the Janome 3500h because everyone said it was an actual heavy duty as opposed to the singer/brothers. But I know that wasn't enough because the motor will give like my last Brother machine I paid $250 for.. live and learn.
 

But is the gap from $350 realistically $2000? I had a Chinese shoe patcher for about a week before I sent it back, Kept getting out of time and left mark all over the leather even after I sanded the foot down and it was supposed to be for shoes! Maybe my expectations are just unrealistic?

I want to do more without feeling like I have to work for $10/hr hand sewing to compete and keep doing what I enjoy. I love making leather stuff but the time on labor is really hitting me.