Kevlar thread

[Tejas]

Instead of Kevlar thread, you could use PTFE thread which is heat resistant to about 500° F. As for locking the stitches, At the end of the run, leave several inches of thread. Tug the thread on the under-side and pull the top-thread through. Tie off the two threads with a sheet bend or surgeon's knot. A square knot can be used, but a sheet bend or a surgeon's knot is more secure.

PTFE thread is quite slippery. A more secure method would be to leave even longer threads but do not pull through. Thread a needle on each and sew several stitches back through the same holes in the seam, essentially the same as a manual saddle-stitch. 

Edited May 5, 2023 by Tejas

[Tugadude]

10 hours ago, webphut said:

Like you, I actually like the actual stitching part of hand stitching. That was actually what got me into it. I think really what I need, to keep me interested in hand stitching, is a faster way to punch all the holes for the thread.

I suggest, if you haven't checked his channel out, go to YouTube and watch some of Nigel Armitage's videos.  He reviews and demonstrates various pricking irons and stitching chisels.  Those tools have really taken off in recent years and new and better ones seem to come out daily.  They've made a huge difference in the speed at which I can stitch.  Here's his thoughts on a popular set.  But you can get started with cheaper chisels and decide if they're for you.

Also, you might find this helpful:

 

[Klara]

10 hours ago, webphut said:

... I think really what I need, to keep me interested in hand stitching, is a faster way to punch all the holes for the thread.

I'd suggest getting a copy of Al Stohlmam's book The Art of Handsewing Leather. He marks the holes with a wheel and uses an awl for making them. The technique needs a lot of practice (unless you have at least three hands) and a stitching pony or variation thereof, but I find it fast enough and a lot more fun than fighting with a sewing machine. 

[webphut]

LOL, WOW...Thank you all for the input. I apprciate you taking your time to respond to me. You have definitely encouraged me to keep on with the hand stitching. 

[fredk]

There are times only hand-stitching will be needed and there are times only sewing machine stitching will be needed. 

Knowing when to use either and being able to do either is part of the learning of leathercrafting

[webphut]

As for a sewing machine that has the features posted above that can drive a 138 thread with the appropriate needle to steer said thread are slim to none. I also been using https://theluckyneedle.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Sewing-Machine-Buyers-Guide-2021.pdf  to help me look for a sewing machine too. I have found a couple, but I was hoping to find something with a lower price. Many of the machines are close if not the same as msrp. I think I need to just take it slow until one pops up.

 

 

[kgg]

49 minutes ago, webphut said:

I have found a couple, but I was hoping to find something with a lower price. Many of the machines are close if not the same as msrp. I think I need to just take it slow until one pops up.

There are a lot of good used machines that come to market.

The first thing to do is set a realistic dollar value that you want / able to spend. Then decide on:

i) what items you would probably want to sew.

ii) what size of thread you want / need to sew those items.

iii) what style of machine is best suited to your projects, flatbed or cylinder bed. For someone starting out I would recommend a cylinder bed with a flat top attachment.

iv) buy a brand name if your budget allows.

If and when you come across a machine and are unsure whether will suite your purpose just ask. I'm sure someone here already owns one.

kgg

[webphut]

56 minutes ago, kgg said:

There are a lot of good used machines that come to market.

The first thing to do is set a realistic dollar value that you want / able to spend. Then decide on:

i) what items you would probably want to sew.

ii) what size of thread you want / need to sew those items.

iii) what style of machine is best suited to your projects, flatbed or cylinder bed. For someone starting out I would recommend a cylinder bed with a flat top attachment.

iv) buy a brand name if your budget allows.

If and when you come across a machine and are unsure whether will suite your purpose just ask. I'm sure someone here already owns one.

kgg

i) what items you would probably want to sew.

-A leather welding apron followed up with patching over the holes in my welding gloves for starters. I can fantsize about making all kinds of leather stuff. 

ii) what size of thread you want / need to sew those items.

-This is a question I wish I had known to ask myself way before I ventured down the path of leather sewing all together. Right now I have  kevlar thread in size 346. WOW right! Now I know. When I bought this, I had no idea of needle sizes and weather or not a machine could hold a given needle size. I just looked at the thread next to a couple pieces of 1" leather straps ontop of the 3 oz. suede I planned on using for my apron and thought to myself that it looked awesome.  That was what I started hand stitching with. Now though, hindsight is 20/20 right, thread size 138 or maybe 207.

iii) what style of machine is best suited to your projects, flatbed or cylinder bed. For someone starting out I would recommend a cylinder bed with a flat top attachment.

-All the videos I have watched on youtube makes me lean towards a flatbed, but my gut says cylinder arm. I cant get out of my head that it is only a matter of time before my wife wants me to replicate a louis vitton purse for her or I think I want to make me a leather backpack. 

iv) buy a brand name if your budget allows.

I would love to find a used machine for around $1,000.00 to $1,500.00 on one of the local classiifeds. I been looking for a few weeks now and they are pretty expensive for being used. I am a little surprised at what the sellers are asking. some are asking the same as new price. As far a name brand goes, if I buy a new machine which is stillan option, I may be buying one of the following: Cobra20, Cobra 26, the techsew 2750 or the techsew 1660.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, webphut said:

I am a little surprised at what the sellers are asking. some are asking the same as new price.

I prices for machines during the lockdown went crazy but I am seeing lately prices for used machines dropping in Ontario, Canada. The brand names like Juki, Pfaff, Alder, Singer are still relatively higher then the used clone machines. I would still recommend a cylinder arm with a flat top attachment as you can use it to do both flat or round items. So it gives you a bit of flexibility.

1 hour ago, webphut said:

patching over the holes in my welding gloves for starters.

Whether you go with a flatbed or cylinder bed patching over those holes in your gloves, depending where the holes are located, would probably be more suited to a patcher. Think of the Singer 29K-71 or 72 or a clone patcher machine.

kgg

[webphut]

LOL, I was just joking when I mentioned my welding gloves. Im going to stop posting on thread now. I dont want to take up too much of peoples time and them real long thread get kind of menotinous. I have any other questions, I will start a new thread folk. Once again thank you for your input and I will keep on going with my hand stitching too. Actually was looking at them presses last night in fact on a few different sites.

 

 

Edited May 6, 2023 by webphut
too long