Leather stretching when machining.

[toxo]

I used a pattern that included holes for hand stitching. When I cut the pattern out I left out the holes because I wanted to machine it.

The leather was fairly soft and when I was doing the gusset I found that when I got all the way round the gusset I found the gusset carried on after I wanted it to stop! This is not the first time this has happened and I'm guessing it's the result of having to manhandle the top leather around the corners and so stretching it. Is this a fair assumption or am I missing something? I don't remember reading about this, I guess that all the video posters are playing it safe and only use veg tan which is a lot easier than supple chrome tan.

I've learned yet another valuable lesson - Henceforth I will sew from both ends and use more anchors in between.

I know a lot of you only use chunky stiff veg tan so probably doesn't apply, but for everyone else, how do you do it?

 

 

[RockyAussie]

Generally I put some marks on at various points that have to meet up as I get to them. As I am going along the edge I make little adjustments in how I pull or push the leather in order to get these to line up. The gusset stretching too long is often a problem and it can be helped a little by slightly lifting the presser feet every few stitches which allows the leather to relax back and not grow so much in length. DONT lift the feet high enough to release the tension discs if you can avoid it as that can affect the thread balance etc.

 

[toxo]

15 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Generally I put some marks on at various points that have to meet up as I get to them. As I am going along the edge I make little adjustments in how I pull or push the leather in order to get these to line up. The gusset stretching too long is often a problem and it can be helped a little by slightly lifting the presser feet every few stitches which allows the leather to relax back and not grow so much in length. DONT lift the feet high enough to release the tension discs if you can avoid it as that can affect the thread balance etc.

 

Thanks Brian.

I'll certainly make some changes. I just wanted to be sure that It wasn't just me.

[Samalan]

Toxo it's called Easing What Rocky Aussie said is right on. The gusset needs to be shorter to start with but what I call tick marks are a good way to control the stretching once you figure it out it's fun to do. On some patterns, it says right on them Easing is necessary here. I use to make stool heads with Naugahyde that needed to be Eased around a round stool head I would quadrant it's like a compressing of the material to meet each point. anyway good luck with it.

[Frodo]

I take it that you use a liner?

use masking tape on the back side of thin leather it will stop the stretch 

when finished pull the tape off

install the liner. 

[toxo]

19 hours ago, Frodo said:

I take it that you use a liner?

use masking tape on the back side of thin leather it will stop the stretch 

when finished pull the tape off

install the liner. 

No liner Frodo. This was an experiment trying to use a skin that had some mould marks on it but it was too soft. I made some mistakes and the front pocket gusset ended up being too narrow so when I got to the sharpish corners I had to pull it about too much which stretched it. After that I fell out of love with the thing and finished it just to get it done and I'll probably give it away. Many lessons learned. I can see the masking tape working on straight runs but I think I'll try Brians method method of mating marks all the way round but on this occasion I think veg tan gussets would've made a difference.

[Frodo]

On 5/5/2023 at 3:58 AM, toxo said:

I used a pattern that included holes for hand stitching. When I cut the pattern out I left out the holes because I wanted to machine it.

The leather was fairly soft and when I was doing the gusset I found that when I got all the way round the gusset I found the gusset carried on after I wanted it to stop! This is not the first time this has happened and I'm guessing it's the result of having to manhandle the top leather around the corners and so stretching it. Is this a fair assumption or am I missing something? I don't remember reading about this, I guess that all the video posters are playing it safe and only use veg tan which is a lot easier than supple chrome tan.

I've learned yet another valuable lesson - Henceforth I will sew from both ends and use more anchors in between.

I know a lot of you only use chunky stiff veg tan so probably doesn't apply, but for everyone else, how do you do it?

 

 

Try this method it works for me

do not start sewing on one end, start in the center and sew back to the end 

if I am working with stretchy leather I put masking tape on the back side and sew through it,  then rip off

Edited August 1, 2023 by Northmount
fixed a typo seeing > sewing