Contrasting thread color

[Brooks125]

I'm sure there is a fairly simple answer that I'm not seeing.  How would I go about stitching a lighter, contrasting thread on a dark (black) holster, belt, etc., but still have deep, wet molding ability? 

I have a couple hurdles to cross.

1) I dye my holsters, usually, after they are stitched and done.

2) I suede line my holsters, except for exotic veneers, which I build finished side-in to improve absorbency.  This makes a nearly waterproof side on the panels.

I am working on a tan thread on black holster. On my first go around, I dyed the veg tan leather before starting and the color held up well and didn't bleed, but the leather didn't take the water well to wet mold it, almost like an exotic.  Any of the pre-dyed leathers seem to be just as water-resistant.

Is there a way to get better wet molding detail and still keep the contrasting colors?

Thanks

Edited July 5, 2023 by Brooks125

[fredk]

Do it your normal way, but use a waste/slave*  thread, then after its dyed, undo the thread and restitch with a better thread of the colour you want

 

* in the vintage car world when we use something for temporary and its to be changed for a permanent item its called a 'slave' eg, we use spare wheels with bad tyres on them for moving the car around or when spray painting the car, those are 'slave' wheels, to be replaced with the better ones later

[SUP]

@Brooks125 for dying black, do you use dyes and then some treatment to prevent the dye running? That might  prevent absorption of water. Have you tried vinegaroon? I have seen that when dyed with vinegaroon, I can still wet mold leather. Also, you can check if the thread has tannins in it. If not, it will not take the vinegaroon dye, and you can dye both together, else you can use @fredk's technique.

[toxo]

Perhaps I'm missing something?  Why not just wet mould - dye - stitch - two coats of 50/50 Resolene?

[fredk]

1 hour ago, toxo said:

Perhaps I'm missing something?  Why not just wet mould - dye - stitch - two coats of 50/50 Resolene?

I think the bit you are missing is that its usual to sew closed a gun holster then wet mould it for a tight fit

[toxo]

5 hours ago, fredk said:

I think the bit you are missing is that its usual to sew closed a gun holster then wet mould it for a tight fit

Ah, you mean shove the actual cling film wrapped gun in the wet holster rather than use a mould?

[fredk]

or a blue plastic gun, but the holster still needs to be sewn up tight firstly

[toxo]

We're all different I guess. A blue gun would assume not a one-off. I think I'd rather make a slightly smaller mould and do it the easier way.

[GatoGordo]

3 hours ago, toxo said:

We're all different I guess. A blue gun would assume not a one-off. I think I'd rather make a slightly smaller mould and do it the easier way.

I don't understand this method. Are you saying that you create some kind of mold, then shape the two halves of the holster, then dye, and finally sew? How do the halves fit together? Can you point me to a video of this method so I can actually see it?

The method I use is: Dye, cut, sew, wet mold, finish.

[Brooks125]

I typically Cut, Stitch (with lining), Wet mold, Dye, Finish.  This has changed to Dye, Cut, Stitch, Mold, Finish. 

I thought about the slave stitch, but with the lining, I can't get it in the machine for the open portions.   I think I'll have to stick to a longer soak and more elbow grease on the boning process, similar to using waterproof exotics.

Thanks