Noobie question

[Gordyf]

Hi All... new to the forum and kinda new to leather work.

Got into it by accident 'cause I needed a new sheath for my Gerber multi tool and wasn't going to pay what they wanted for it.

Then found I really enjoyed the project. Have made several for the guys at work now along with some knife sheaths

This is Take 2 where I dyed it with Fiebings pro. Would like to seal it with Resolene then mink oil/neetsfoot for preservation.

I am pretty hard on stuff in my business, and this rides on my belt all the time and they get really funky.

The first one I left natural with just a couple coats of mink oil and it is really beat up

Can I do that?, Oil first, or Resolene?, other way around? or are they not compatible?

New territory for me. I do ship repair.

As I noted in my profile, I am into utilitarian, work stuff, not really artistic yet.

 

Thanks in advance

Aloha

Gordy

[Dwight]

Generally speaking . . . a really good process is:

Mark pattern and cut . . . dampen and mold . . . let dry . . . stitch / rivet / lace (as applicable) . . . OIL (real neatsfoot oil only . . . wet coat on the hair side only of the leather project . . . let dry for about 24 hours) . . . dye (let dry for 24 hours) . . . apply final coat of Resolene or other finish coating.

Resolene is not only a sealer . . . it does not allow anything else to get in and do anything . . . at least for the first year or so.

Have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

[tsunkasapa]

Based on what you are saying, Resolene isn't going to help the situation. As a construction worker, all my leather stuff takes a beating. No finish will change that.

If you want something that will resist abuse, use Kydex.

[Gordyf]

Thanks all

Point noted on Kydex, but it is nowhere near as much fun.

Aloha

[TomE]

15 hours ago, Gordyf said:

The first one I left natural with just a couple coats of mink oil and it is really beat up

Can I do that?, Oil first, or Resolene?, other way around? or are they not compatible?

Might try maintaining it like horse tack.  Cleaning with saddle soap and water.  Occasional oiling as needed with neatsfoot oil.  Conditioning with a waxy conditioner like Fiebings Aussie or Black Rock Leather-N-Rich to repel water.  English tack is not sealed with an acrylic top coat.  Depend on regular cleaning, and conditioning with fats and oils to keep it supple and prevent dry rot.  Another way to go is silicon oils for water proofing.  Fiebings Saddle Oil (I use it on my work boots) or Golden Mink Oil. 

Edited September 20, 2023 by TomE