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pikefish

leather splitting or cracking

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Hi,

Made a leather dog lead about 4 months ago. I use it every day, looks good but I'd be embarrassed to call it high quality, lol.

Just wondering why this leather is splitting or cracking on the hand loop already?

I brought the leather dyed and conditioned, so didn't do much to it, was sold as a butt and so called belting leather. I tried neatsfoot but didn't absorb guessing due to waxes? Was going to start selling them in the future but I don't like throw away crap... I'm thinking I need a new leather source?

So much to learn as a newbie, just over 12 months experience now, like most I'm a self funded self training(bad habits included) apprentice.

Happy crafting

Thanks!
Dean

 

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IMG_20231010_152713_472_480x1043.jpg

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Bridle and harness leathers stuffed with waxes and oils will absorb neatsfoot oil without a problem. I’ll guess the leather was sealed with acrylic or similar finish. Cracking of the grain may well be due to low quality tannage.  Might try burnishing the edges as another test of quality veg tanned leather.  Maybe @RockyAussie or someone else can suggest a good leather supplier in your part of the world. 

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There are several reasons that could cause this problem unfortunately. Sometimes even high quality leathers to start with can age and deteriorate in time and the wrong conditions. Some leather are tanned poorly and if the finishing is not done well it can crack easily. Generally I test a strip of leather before I make it up by bending it over fairly tightly to see how the grain is running and if it looks likely to crack. There are a couple of places over here that sell cheap veg under different names so if you want to give me a call feel welcome to do so through my Wild Harry contact phone   Wild Harry

Regards Brian

 

 

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Butt leather is the firmest part of the hide to start with. Belting leather may also have been compressed to remove some stretch. There is not as much flex to that butt part of the hide because it is tighter. It is an advantage for some things and disadvantage for others.  Making a sharp bend or fold in it can sure split the grain. Best leather and any leather that has been compressed (aka "jacked") is more prone to cracking when folded there. The firmer flesh part will not compress as easily as lower side, shoulder, or neck sections when folding. When you fold it this makes more tension on the grain portion of the thickness and can lead to the cross splitting. One trick is to soften that area with warm water prior to folding to somewhat case it. 

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Thanks for the replies!

TomE, I did burnish the edges, wasn't as easy as some natural veg tan I got and didn't seem to last long, but that might be just me and lack of experience?

RockyAussie, you will hear from me soon, appreciate your offer.

Bruce Johnson, great info and something for me to consider. Thanks. I did try softening in water for bend at snap but didn't seem to soak much in, and it seems crack pretty easy compared to other shoulder etc I've used. Maybe I'm best using shoulders for these?

Thanks again :-)

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Did you wet that section of leather before bending it to shape and letting it dry that way? then a feed with some NFO?

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So, would something like a billfold suffer from this problem, too? What would be the best part of the hide to use for applications that are going to have 180 degree folds? Maybe something other than cow hide?

Edited by AlZilla

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2 hours ago, AlZilla said:

So, would something like a billfold suffer from this problem, too? What would be the best part of the hide to use for applications that are going to have 180 degree folds? Maybe something other than cow hide?

Some things to take into consideration;

1. the thicker the leather the more likely it will crack, without wetting and forming. Wet forming will help reduce the likelihood of cracking

2. leather from near a bovine back bone is more likely to crack as it tends to be stiffer

3. bovine belly leather is much more flexible and less likely to crack

4. leather from goat, sheep or pig is very flexible and less likely to crack

Choose your leather for its intended use. I still have a wallet I started to make years ago. My first attempt. I used the wrong leather and when I folded it it cracked along the fold

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4 hours ago, fredk said:

Did you wet that section of leather before bending it to shape and letting it dry that way? then a feed with some NFO?

No, I didn't really want to bend it on the handle, it's just from use I guess. I wet end with snap, it's fine but wetting seemed to do little with this leather? Seemed to crack pretty easy compared to other natural veg tan I've used, I had to be very careful with bending it at the snap...

Thanks for thoughts and time!

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And thanks again for your next reply.

Is butt no good for this use? What are horse straps made off? They last much better than my stuff, lol.

Cheers!

1 minute ago, pikefish said:

 

And it's only 8oz maybe 9oz in spots?

Edited by pikefish

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